TICO the SE

Postby **Okibi** » Mon Dec 23, 2013 12:12 am

Been thinking of getting the shift-i keen to see what you think.

sailaholic · Postby **sailaholic** » Mon Dec 23, 2013 4:29 am

There is a GTR for sale in QLD on the forum , wouldn't the the Qld compliance then

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Magpie · Postby **Magpie** » Mon Dec 23, 2013 7:27 am

Nice to see the innovate dual gauges being used by others. Think about getting the http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/pl1.php as you can data log the readings.

Okibi wrote:Been thinking of getting the shift-i keen to see what you think.

Since my tacho is not working I use the shift-I, it is set to come on at 5,500 and all flash at 8,000 works a treat. The lights can be set up in many different patterns, however you will not miss it when they all flash, my personal preference is cumulative.

chrisearl88 · Postby **chrisearl88** » Thu Dec 26, 2013 2:02 am

Good to see it all went well, ive just done an SP replica and its running pretty sweet on the base tune. Going back to chiptorque for a Dyno run in mid jan so will post up graphs then.

Postby **tomli123001** » Thu Dec 26, 2013 9:12 am

chrisearl88 wrote:Good to see it all went well, ive just done an SP replica and its running pretty sweet on the base tune. Going back to chiptorque for a Dyno run in mid jan so will post up graphs then.

That will be sweet. I think Chiptorque dyno is more conservative than some of happy dynos around.
I will do a new base run again at the usual gt auto dyno later in Jan, before my other mods.

Postby **tomli123001** » Fri Feb 07, 2014 3:20 pm

Happy Chinese new year to everyone. Have not been updated the blog for while, was busy with work.
Finally something happened today.

I happened to get a set of 6UL at a reasonable price and put them on straight away as soon as the wheel lugs arrived.
I will put the 949 racing valves in when I do the tyre balance or change next time.

When lifting both the racing hart(KU39 205/40/r17) and the 6ul (KU31 205/50/r15), the weight difference is obvious.
I always missed the cornering feeling of the my old white NA. the Big 17" wheels just felt different, not necessarilly bad way, just different.

I think the Racing hart with lower profiles can corner very quick and more feedback (read sensitive/nervous and far more harsh ride by others alternatively). However, the 6UL is now much more stable in corners and more cushioning. I do feel faster due to less weight during accelerations. But the wheels are Smaller in diameter than the stock. I did make some scraping of the car bottom at some bumps, which I used to be able to clear.

It took me ages to battle if I should keep the racing hart or swap to these, as I always liked the stock looking and think an SE needs racing hart to make it SE. Well, I think I like the function more this time round in the end. Please advice to me also how much I should sell these racing harts for. They are in near perfect condition, except tiny bit of gutter scratch in one rim. The tyres are 1000km old considered new KU39 installed 3 months ago.

Ordered some stickers also from mightycarmods.com to cover up some paint imperfections on the hardtop. By the way, I really liked the sticker "may the boost be with you", good one.

Lokiel · Postby **Lokiel** » Fri Feb 07, 2014 6:08 pm

With those stickers, do you realise that you're advertising that your car is modded?

Better to fly underneath the radar.

Wheels look great.

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Lokiel · Postby **Lokiel** » Fri Feb 07, 2014 6:10 pm

Rear could use some "more high"

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The Green Goblin · Postby **The Green Goblin** » Sat Feb 08, 2014 12:33 am

looks good mate.. what are the specs of the wheels?

Postby **tomli123001** » Sat Feb 08, 2014 8:22 am

Lokiel wrote:Rear could use some "more high"

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Yes, I need more high also to clear some of my local bumps.

Think I will try plasti dip later on the top

Postby **tomli123001** » Sat Feb 08, 2014 8:25 am

The Green Goblin wrote:looks good mate.. what are the specs of the wheels?

15x8 6ul. They only had a limited production and out of stock everywhere. Saw them this week and snapped them in the first 6 hr if the the listing.

kenson · Postby **kenson** » Sat Feb 08, 2014 1:05 pm

Looks good! Was a little worried about the red/bronze combo but I think it looks good.
(I've also ordered bronze wheels and have a red SE)

Postby **tomli123001** » Sat Feb 08, 2014 10:03 pm

kenson wrote:Looks good! Was a little worried about the red/bronze combo but I think it looks good.
(I've also ordered bronze wheels and have a red SE)

Yes, I have seen most red SE with nickle or black 6UL, so I want to try something different.
I have always loved the Subaru STI bronze color and I am glad it worked out well on the MX5

Lokiel · Postby **Lokiel** » Sun Feb 09, 2014 12:16 am

tomli123001 wrote::Yes, I have seen most red SE with nickle or black 6UL, so I want to try something different.
I have always loved the Subaru STI bronze color and I am glad it worked out well on the MX5

IMO, silver wheels on a red car is "too much" and black is "too little" (black rims disappear into the blackness of the tyre and wheel well until you're real close) - the bronze is "just right", subtle but visible and classy.

- that's tonight's bedtime story, now I'm off to bed.

Postby **tomli123001** » Mon Feb 17, 2014 3:36 pm

I have usually had my Mercedes done by the dealers. However, the whole point of MX5-ing is to learn DIY and get rewarded. So today is actually the first time I am doing the mechanical work on my own alone independently. (had others helping me before)

Not sure many of you have actually read the MAZDA user service manual. I am well aware the normal 10,000km oil change interval and 5,000km oil interval for the enthusiasts who love their car or run high power. However, Not aware MAZDA actually recommended 3 MONTHS!!!! on the book for SE.

Is it too much by Mazda or the 3 months interval is necessary? Mainly because I do not drive the car much.
It may be helpful to some of my fellow members, I would like to post the manual photos here. Have you done your car service update to date so far? I think I owe my old girl the manual and diff oil change badly now.

Some useful facts are below:
Manual transmission oil every 5 years.
Diff oil every 4 years.
Fuel filter every 150,000km

Here is the funny one, that the SE is actually better than normal MX5 at servicing
Spark plug: SE-every 120,000km
mx5 - every 40,000km.

SE every 5000km or 3 MONTHS

Mazda MX5 Manual for NB

I know everybody uses synthetic oil. I got some Supercheap special Castrol Edge, so there it goes. But I also do not want to waste 1.5L of my old semi synthetic oil.
I decided to mix them. 1.5L semi + 2.5L fully synthetic. Considering both weight is 30, the 5 vs 10 won't do much damage and everything is dumped out in 3 months anyway according to the manual.

I have read many forums and researched on youtube. Apparently you could reach the oil filter from the air intake manifold gap. But not sure if SE is any special or just my hand too fat. I can never reach it done there easily.

This leaves me the only option from underneath the car, ideally without removing the plastic tray.
It was very difficult to reach actually and I was damn lucky the filter was just hand tight, so it came off without too much effort. And here is it back in.

Made some oil spill, but other than that, it was all good.
I now put in a Works magnet drain plug. I will report next time how much dirt and crap was trapped by it.

By the way. Just wondering how does everybody jack their lower car up? My jack could not even pass the door sill bit, let alone reaching my frame rail, which would really really nice with the stainless steel frame rail installed.

I had to use the factory mechanical jack from the boot to raise the car high enough and then the jack can go under and reach the frame rail. Then I can place my axle stands underneath the frame rail. I know I can do it from the diff housing, but I have a Beetrush triangle brace there already, so I can not really use that point anymore. Any other good advice how to jack the car up easily without using the factory mechanical jack?