Engine died. Sad day.

[hks_kansei]

Sounds expensive as hell.

I MIGHT pay 800 for one. You still need intake, loom etc

Dann

Not sure where you're getting them from, but you'd be hard pressed to get a BP for $800 retail.

Most places seem to want about $1k for a B6, and usually a bit more for a BP. (that's block/head/manifolds included)


I've never seen a BP got for that cheap outside of a private sale where a guy just needs the engine gone.

[22Silver]

Sounds expensive as hell.

I MIGHT pay 800 for one. You still need intake, loom etc

Dann

But that's (I'm assuming) wholesale price? I'm going to obviously call a bunch of wreckers, but I can't imagine any of them being much cheaper than this?

[NitroDann]

Right, I wouldnt pay 2000 retail for a part that is readily available if you ask around and can be had for <1000.

Its not wholesale price, I don't have any special deals with anyone for parts, the VAST majority of what I buy for peoples builds can be bought by the public in the exact way, because the big dealers are MORE expensive to their 20 year loyal account customers than Jo Blogs online store with faster delivery and better service is.

What I am saying is that if you ask around in the community someone will have one for a lot less than 2200 dollars.

On top of that cash is king, so if you want exhaust pipe you can walk right into any huge industrial supplier like Midway and buy medical and food grade stainless bends for the same price as any multinational because they are on an account and you are paying with cash on the spot. (this obviously discludes when a big company buys 10,000 bends vs my 50).

The point is that almost no one gets special prices through long term account loyalty. The best prices are online or in person negotiated for cash(when I say cash i mean immediate payment on the spot, as opposed to an account or on credit etc).

Dann

[22Silver]

Thanks Dann, I'll keep that in mind while looking, and perhaps make a post on the WTB section.

[sailaholic]

There is one for sale on here for 750. 1200 to 1300 is normal. 2200 is daylight robbery.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

[Kenstaki]

Yeah 2200 seems very high. I called several wreckers and they were quoting similarly high numbers.

See my thread viewtopic.php?f=29&t=57153 for contact details.

In the end, I ended up buying a used motor from reputable member here in the $1000-$1200 range.

[tescoking]

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=61994

[22Silver]

http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=61994

Have seen that a few times.
Prefer to pay up to $2000 and get one with under 80,000km. An engine with 190,000k is pretty close to needing a rebuild, no?

Looking at this... http://www.motorsportessentials.com.au/ ... ce-engine/
This is (without any of the optional work) Going to be identical to a good condition stock motor?
How can they justify $3050 shipped if it's essentially just a refurbished motor?

[NitroDann]

http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=61994

Have seen that a few times.
Prefer to pay up to $2000 and get one with under 80,000km. An engine with 190,000k is pretty close to needing a rebuild, no?

No.

Looking at this... http://www.motorsportessentials.com.au/ ... ce-engine/
This is (without any of the optional work) Going to be identical to a good condition stock motor?

Basically yeah.

How can they justify $3050 shipped if it's essentially just a refurbished motor?

If you price up a standard rebuild you will understand.

[22Silver]

http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=61994

Have seen that a few times.
Prefer to pay up to $2000 and get one with under 80,000km. An engine with 190,000k is pretty close to needing a rebuild, no?

No.

Looking at this... http://www.motorsportessentials.com.au/ ... ce-engine/
This is (without any of the optional work) Going to be identical to a good condition stock motor?

Basically yeah.

How can they justify $3050 shipped if it's essentially just a refurbished motor?

If you price up a standard rebuild you will understand.

I understand that the cost of refurbishing an engine is high, and that that is how they justify the price.
What I don't understand is how they manage to sell any, if you can buy a low km engine in good shape for under half the price, and achieve similar (identicle?) results.

[hks_kansei]

[quote="22Silver"I understand that the cost of refurbishing an engine is high, and that that is how they justify the price.
What I don't understand is how they manage to sell any, if you can buy a low km engine in good shape for under half the price, and achieve similar (identicle?) results.[/quote]


Easy.

You buy a secondhand engine that apparently has 100,000km on it.
THere's usually no proof of the age, no proof of maintenance (for all you know it got it's oil changed every 30,000km)
No idea on care.
And you get 100,000km of wear (which, granted, isn't that much)

Whereas a freshly built engine you get one with 0km on it, and you know everything has been replaced (assuming a good workshop builds it)



It's the same as why buy a new car when you can get a 5 year old used one for cheaper?

[NitroDann]

The best rebuilders have a 10% failure rate in rebuilds.

KM's mean absolutely nothing at all. A bore scope, removing the cam cover, and a leakdown test tells you everything you need to know.

Dann

[project.r.racing]

Easy.

You buy a secondhand engine that apparently has 100,000km on it.
THere's usually no proof of the age, no proof of maintenance (for all you know it got it's oil changed every 30,000km)
No idea on care.
And you get 100,000km of wear (which, granted, isn't that much)

Whereas a freshly built engine you get one with 0km on it, and you know everything has been replaced (assuming a good workshop builds it)

It's the same as why buy a new car when you can get a 5 year old used one for cheaper?

refurbish and rebuilt are 2 different things.

[NitroDann]

Both are REALLY loose terms, yeah.

Dann

[zossy1]

I just sold a JDM VVT engine for $1,100. It had 34,000kms and I had bore scoped and done a cylinder leakage test so I knew the engine was a gooder. Buyer didn't want the loom but I would have thrown that in for a small sum.

BUT no ECU/immobiliser/key. That's the problem with a VVT swap if you're sticking with the OEM ECU and loom. You need it all (loom, ECU, immobiliser and key with nb8b ignition lock receiver) to make it work.