Haltech Platinum 1000 ECU

[Lokiel]

Getting cold+warm starts dialed-in nicely actually requires cold and warm environments as a starting point.

In summer, unless the car's in a refrigerated environment, the weather's not cold enough to tune the car for cold starts. Many tuners require the car for a few days during winter so that they can get a few cracks at a true cold-start environment - once the car is warmed up it needs to cool down again to test the cold-start tuning so there's really only a couple of opportunities to do that between 0700 and 1100, after that the weather's generally not cold enough to test cold starts.

So if you do get your ECU tuned in summer and live in a cold winter environment, it's quite normal that it will probably need some additional tuning 6 months later when it's winter to improve your cold starts.

Argh right, so it's not like redoing all the maps, probably just the cold starts. I know I'm being pedantic now, however would it be best to get it initially tuned in winter or going into winter. Then they could get the cold starts right in the morning/night and do the warm starts during the day?

Cold starts are the trickiest part so yes, winter is the best time to install it. After the initial tune, most tuners get you to drive your car for a week or two and then bring it back for additional tweaks based on your feedback - this re-tune/tweak is usually covered by your installation cost (ie. shouldn't cost you anything extra).

[bear2230]

Cold starts are a little tricky but it's not rocket science. It will be fine when you get it back from them and if they do need to readjust a little they will do it for free and it will only take them a few goes.
In the Haltech ECU manager there is a terrific help section in every setting. As soon as you highlight each setting it shows you exactly what it does in the description on the right of the page, so really not that hard to have a play yourself. Just plug in to your laptop and its all there. It really is quite cool you can set up lights and displays. RPM. air con settings, Idle up when cold. There are about 5 pages with about 100 settings you can adjust. You will only need to play with about 10-15 settings.
I will take a screen shot and post my last tune when I get home from Hols.
WARNING: Don't play with the AFR unless you are experienced. Let the tuner do that. All the rest is pretty simple even for me, and I'm a tech dufuss. So pretty much anyone can do it.

Richard.

[Magpie]

I have a Haltech PS1000 and it is a little hard to get started cold, mainly because of the ITB's. However having no PS or AC makes tuning a lot easier.

[davekmoore]

Haltech is running like a dream no problems at all. Its certainly not as good as the factory ecu tune for idle and voltage drop but its at 15psi now and AFR is perfect which is the main concern after blowing the last engine.
My only advice would be to get the PS2000 if your car is a daily like mine. The extra inputs are needed for the idle dip when you turn the lights on and the Air con is running. If you have a factory or not to serious stereo you probably can just use the PS1000 but I'm driving 1600 watts so that gives me a little extra load.
I have fine tuned my Idle and voltage drop to just about perfect now which was quite a bit of fun but did take about 20 hours worth of fiddling with the settings on the ECU Manager.
Richard.

It looks like the rebuild of my SE is nearly done and the car is ready to go for its Haltech stand-alone to replace the previous setup of factory ECU plus a Haltech Interceptor piggyback. Only a near standard head unit with a low watt powered sub-woofer. Air con and PAS. It'll have 1000cc injectors. Balanced and built bottom end and much more cooling than before. It's getting a Haltech because the local tuner likes them. He's recommending a 1000 as being perfectly ok for my car for both road and track including being able to go into limp mode if any sensor sees anything unsafe and including provision for future E85 with a flex sensor, higher power pump and bigger fuel lines.

He reckons the 2000 would be overkill.

What do you reckon?

[Magpie]

He reckons the 2000 would be overkill.

What do you reckon?

I would say the PS1000 is enough.

[bear2230]

Dave, my only issue is that I Needed I more input to control the idle drop when I turn the lights on and the air is on,
You can wire into the Haltech and this opens up another sub directory but seeing as your SE doesn't have the VVT you won't need this so you should be sweet with the 1000, they also now have a wideband that stays in and constantly auto adjusts.
I have this and it supposed I save fuel and run better, i haven't noticed any improvement but Scooby doesn't go far.

Richard

[davekmoore]

Thanks for the info guys.