Apparently, they have 2 stages. One is to extend the rev range to 7100RPM and the other was to the 8000RPM.
7000RPM youtube
8000RPM youtube
http://www.chiptorque.com.au/miata-standard-ecu-8k-rpm/
To my relatively standard car, 7100RPM is enough. No power increases after over 6000RPM really and a stable flat power curve after 6000 to 7000RPM.
However, it addresses the fuel cut problem I mentioned in my last post, so I won't shoot through my 1st gear too quickly and not to the fuel cut range.
When the REV falls back from higher point, it will stay on boost better and stay in higher RPM range.
I met Lachlan there, the Mazda tuning Guru, I must say. He specializes also in MPS 3 and 6 tuning. He had a book of tuning dyno graphs of his customers on display at the shop. I asked him how he got involved with Mazdaspeed Aus and developed SP. He said, he was beating the Mazda speed team all the times with RX7 racing in Tasmania at the time, so eventually Mazda approached him for tuning. He said the SP could easily have 20 more kW, but he tuned it down on request by the Mazda.
The say I was there was very hot at 35 C deg. So really a terrible day for Dyno power run. But it really help show what my problems are.
In all below graphs, the blue is after tuning. Red is as dríven in. Note that it is inline with GT Auto's butt dyno's figure, if not more conservative.
So now, I will show the Power and PSI boost curve. This really shows why a Manual boost tee is very very BAD.
In my before tuning form, there was a huge boost spike at 4000RPM at the set 9-10 PSI, but then dropped off very quickly after 4000RPM.
You can also see clearly the FAMOUS SE bog between 4500 and 5000 RPM.
After tuning, the boost stays much more smoothly without a spike. But the curve is still very waving and not smooth. So my manual tee must go next.
This graph below has my torque in it.
You can clearly see the fuel cut at 6500 sharp. Now it extends smoothly into 7000RPM.
With the new tune, I get a very usable flat power band after 5500RPM and flat torque band between 4500 - 5500 rpm.
Even with the hot weather considered, the car did not give a high peak power number. However, I believe it is a lot smoother than a lot other Dyno I saw and it gives a good area underneath compared to stock form.
Lastly, the Air to Fuel ratio curve here.
Accordingly to Lachlan, the ideal AFR is 11.8 - 12.2 for a turbo car (below 14.7 to accomadate for variants such as weather and fuel). My is a little rich at 11ish on the day. But it is a hot day, so it will help when the days are cooler in most of the time in the year.
Note that their meter can only read 10 as minimum, so the car as dríven in was apparently very rich must be (strange, as I do expect lean suggested by most thread here after intake and exhaust mods)
