Rays TE37V on an NA6, offset questions?

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ArtyMiats
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Rays TE37V on an NA6, offset questions?

Postby ArtyMiats » Thu Dec 12, 2013 1:34 am

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Hi all, I'm looking at getting a set of Rays TE37Vs on my NA6 when my Civic is sold. I'm pretty set on the size of 15x7, and the wheels i'm running right now are 15x7+20. The closest size on the Rays however, is +10 offset. I'm pretty confident this will sit flush on my car, but i'm worried about future brake upgrades.

I saw a set of Rota Grid Classics (TE37V knockoffs) on sale here at +0 offset, and NB owners said they had trouble fitting them over their brakes. Is this a discrepancy in the size/shape of the rotas or will I have trouble fitting the Rays over NB brakes? I'm running standard NA6 brakes but am planning to do a swap over to NBs in the future, and before I put money down on these wheels, I want to be certain they're going to fit future brake plans. Thanks all!
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emily_mx5
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Re: Rays TE37V on an NA6, offset questions?

Postby emily_mx5 » Thu Dec 12, 2013 10:55 am

Yes I believe the gridR and maybe the gridV foul on nb calipers, a lot of American miatas have that problem, they usually grind a bit off the caliper or run small spacers.

Why only go a 7"?
Fat tyres work better on 8 and even 9.
And so do stretched tyres haha.

Rota just brought out the grid concave, which is a 15x9 +36 (6UL size)

Btw it's really hard compromising stance/looks with practicality and handling. Gotta decide which you want more.


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Re: Rays TE37V on an NA6, offset questions?

Postby ArtyMiats » Thu Dec 12, 2013 2:49 pm

Im not planning to run stretched tyres, just the same sensible size im running now. 195/50/15. Sorry, didnt make that clear and the photos would add to confusion. I'd like to run 8 wide but afaik it'd be illegal. 7 is the largest width i can run in victoria legally. Im not looking for camber or stance, just would like to know if they'll fit. But i guess they dont by the look of things. May consider spacers.

Would thin spacers be dangerous for mild track work?
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Re: Rays TE37V on an NA6, offset questions?

Postby Mr nanotech » Thu Dec 12, 2013 4:44 pm

What is your reason for upgrading brakes? If you are looking at nb8a rotors, pads etc it's not much of an upgrade and you can get the same effect just buying good na6 pads. The only real upgrade with the nb8a's is that you have a slightly bigger disc and bit larger pad, but they both use the same caliper with a different bracket. The biggest upgrade you'll get from this is maybe less brake fade but only if you are working them out at the track. Take it from someone who has been there and done this.

I had a similar problem with my watanabe type-r wheels. A lot of older Japanese wheel manufacturers are pretty set in their ways about having flat backed wheels. SSR are pretty bad for this as they often won't clear the caliper on most cars.
When I initially fit my wats, they didn't clear the caliper and would have been forced to run a 15mm spacer and shave the edge of the caliper to fit. This is because the mounting face diameter was quite large and interfered with the nb8a bracket on the caliper (which pokes out some ways). I managed to fix this problem by swapping back to na6 brakes.

The reason I say it makes hardly any difference is because when I put the nb8a brakes with new pads etc, a mate of mine had recently bought new discs and bendix pads for his na6 brakes. Comparing the two cars one after another, I noticed absolutely no difference. Possibly under track conditions where you are on heavy brakes most of the time; I could argue there may be some difference as the larger disc may be able to disperse heat more effectively etc.

If you were to really upgrade brakes to another oem unit, I'd recommend going with later nb8b or SE brakes. But ultimately why bother. The reason I say this is because my mates na6 and even my car's brakes could outbrake the grip of the tyres anyway. This is with stock power. I wouldn't worry about it unless you are either doing track work or have boosted your car and need extra stopping power.

Back to wheels though, you should be fine with the 15x7 +10's. They'll fit fine, but just watch out on your tyre choice. I wouldn't go wider than 185 with that size unless you move up to an 8" wheel.
One last piece of advice. Don't buy the Rota's. If you are eager for a set of TE37V's, buy the real thing and don't compromise. Take this from a guy who knows what disappointment feels like. I wanted my current wheels for so long but the price of them always held me back. I compromised and bought a set of Work Cr01's new because they were cheaper but I was never really happy with them. Why? Because they weren't what I had my heart set on. I guarantee if you buy the grids, you will feel the same way about not having the te's.
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Re: Rays TE37V on an NA6, offset questions?

Postby Mr nanotech » Thu Dec 12, 2013 4:52 pm

ArtyMiats wrote:Would thin spacers be dangerous for mild track work?


Yes and no.

Yes: slip on spacers are dangerous even on the street. Depending on how wide you go with the spacer size, they can put a lot of load on your wheel nuts. Not to mention less thread for the nut to bite. The other reason is that these are often not hub centric and can move around.

No: what you want is a decent quality made hub centric spacer. Being hub centric, they have a lip on the inside that hugs the hub of the wheel as well as sits against the hub bore of the wheel allowing the hub center to take some of the load off the wheel nuts. If you plan on using a large spacer though, make sure you swap out your existing oem studs for extended ones. This allows your wheel nuts to have the same amount of thread to bite to and will prevent a nut popping off (which can happen if there is a significant load on the nuts and not enough length of stud for the nut to screw on to).
There is another option which are bolt on spacers. Bolt on are similar to hub centric but have a second set of wheel studs protruding from the face of the spacer. This allows you to bolt the wheel to the new wheel studs of the spacer. I don't recommend this option as they only come in large sizes and will not be suitable for your application.

The moral here is that it can be safe, but only if you do it right.
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Re: Rays TE37V on an NA6, offset questions?

Postby sailaholic » Thu Dec 12, 2013 6:03 pm

Mr nanotech wrote:. I wouldn't go wider than 185 with that size unless you move up to an 8" wheel.


Huh?
Op said he didn't want to stretch tires? And 7inch is the max width for 195 tires by manufacturer specs.
7.5 on for 205
8 for 225.

Op at +10 you need to roll your guards pretty well if your not running heaps of camber. I had to roll guards for 15x7 +21 on the front and +15 on the rear.


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Re: Rays TE37V on an NA6, offset questions?

Postby ArtyMiats » Thu Dec 12, 2013 6:58 pm

I realise i'll have to roll my guards and dial in some camber already. On my +20 offset wheels I get heaps of scrub already, but holding off to roll til I get the new wheels.

Thanks for the info Mr Nanotech, a lot to consider. I'm keen to upgrade to NB brakes for track work, as my long term plan for my car is to turbocharge and hopefully shoot for around 180/200kw at the rear wheels. The brakes right now are great for street, but I worry they won't be enough down the line. And i'm already going for TE37Vs, so don't worry. I'm not getting Rota Grids, just that I see many more cars with Rotas and thats how I was alerted with the issue of the brakes.
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emily_mx5
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Re: Rays TE37V on an NA6, offset questions?

Postby emily_mx5 » Thu Dec 12, 2013 7:21 pm

you are worried about legalities of an 8" over a 7", yet want to turbo.

Again, you either have to keep a legal stock car, or an illegally modified one. it is incredibly difficult to have both.
See the millions of threads about this topic.
Vic is a hard ass state aswell.

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Re: Rays TE37V on an NA6, offset questions?

Postby Apu » Thu Dec 12, 2013 9:09 pm

Mr nanotech wrote:
ArtyMiats wrote:Would thin spacers be dangerous for mild track work?


Yes: slip on spacers are dangerous even on the street. Depending on how wide you go with the spacer size, they can put a lot of load on your wheel nuts. Not to mention less thread for the nut to bite. The other reason is that these are often not hub centric and can move around.



A half decent slip on spacer is unlikely to move around to a point where it will be dangerous unless it's got holes much larger than the bolts or the wheel wasn't tightened properly to begin with.

There is a minimum amount of thread the nut will need (equal to the width of the bolt) - as long as you've got a bit more than that, you should be good.

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Re: Rays TE37V on an NA6, offset questions?

Postby Jace » Mon Dec 30, 2013 11:42 am

emily_mx5 wrote:you are worried about legalities of an 8" over a 7", yet want to turbo.

Again, you either have to keep a legal stock car, or an illegally modified one. it is incredibly difficult to have both.
See the millions of threads about this topic.
Vic is a hard ass state aswell.


this^

not as bad as QLD has recently become though.

OP i'd be happy to roll your guards if needed. no charge if you choose the Rays > Rotas.


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