6.5" splits / sound setup

AntHarmer · Postby **AntHarmer** » Mon Nov 25, 2013 10:03 pm

Doesn't appear to be anything wrong with it for the money then. As long as you have/are planning to buy an Alpine HU?

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dmad_dood · Postby **dmad_dood** » Mon Nov 25, 2013 10:10 pm

Ive currently got an alpine headunit which i will be using for the build

sweep77 · Postby **sweep77** » Tue Nov 26, 2013 7:27 am

this is a pic of my setup when i had an NA.

was an alpine headunit, eclipse speakers in some angled pods i made. I had a couple 8" subs in the boot but they were cheap second hand ones and never really setup properly. The front stage i liked though.

dmad_dood · Postby **dmad_dood** » Tue Nov 26, 2013 2:21 pm

Clean car and nice setup. quite similar to what i'm thinking.

So ive finished work a tad early and i've taken my door card off and the plastic wrap with the goo.

Ive decided to start with sound deadening to try make the most of my current system.

I took the card off and soon realised i have no idea what i'm doing with the sound deadening :oops:

The green circles are the places i'm guessing i cover, the white box is the size of a roll of sound deadening and the blue is where im not sure what i should do with from the behind side.

I also want to try get away with one roll/door.

Thanks,

Jono.

sweep77 · Postby **sweep77** » Tue Nov 26, 2013 3:33 pm

Ideally put a layer on the outer shell of the door where you can, then seal as many holes on the inner shell with cardboard and gaffa tape, allowing room for all the door rods etc, the apply another layer on the inner shell. when installing the front speakers you'll need to make sure that whatever speakers you get are not too deep they hit the window in the down position or you'll have to space them out with pods.

aka_juffa · Postby **aka_juffa** » Tue Nov 26, 2013 3:49 pm

I see that you have aftermarket central locking installed. Give careful thought before covering the actuator. Once covered it will be a bitch to get to If you need to replace or adjust it.

J.

dmad_dood · Postby **dmad_dood** » Tue Nov 26, 2013 4:06 pm

I don't have central locking

but I was also thinking that didn't look original

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hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Tue Nov 26, 2013 4:56 pm

dmad_dood wrote:I don't have working central locking but I was also thinking that didn't look original

Fixed

The central might just be an easy fix if you're lucky, check the wires are connected to it, and check the arm thing is still clamped to the lock actuator properly (ie: not slipping)

The driver's side central locking actuator should be the master, and should set off the passegner one when it is locked or unlocked (even if you love it manually to see)

Luckily those central locking kits aren't that expensive, last I looked they were only $50 or something.

If it's broken, just take it out and bin it.

dmad_dood · Postby **dmad_dood** » Tue Nov 26, 2013 6:00 pm

Ive already sound deadened the door

And the worst part is i cant really notice any difference, the bass probably kicks a bit harder but the doors still rattle and buzz?

sweep77 · Postby **sweep77** » Tue Nov 26, 2013 6:10 pm

depends where the rattles are coming from. make sure everything is screwed down, you can use electrical tape around rods to give a bit of weight to them and use foam around bits that you can see rattling. the type of sound deadner will play a part. I only use dynamat and found it great. There are other brands out there but not all are good. some will just fall off after a warm day. dynamat and stinger roadkill are the 2 best ones. Also make sure theres no loose screws that have fallen into the door cavity rattling around.

dmad_dood · Postby **dmad_dood** » Tue Nov 26, 2013 8:29 pm

yeah it was rattling from the top of the door card so i put extra sound deadening in the curved part but it didn't make a difference. I also don't want to keep adding extra because now i can feel my doors are getting noticeably heavier.

I was also thinking about the plastic lining over the inside of the door is that to keep rain out, how does the sound deadening handle the elements?

sweep77 · Postby **sweep77** » Tue Nov 26, 2013 10:55 pm

The plastic is to keep moisture out. If most holes are covered with deadner then you prob don't need it. Good quality deadner will survive anything. Like I said the cheap stuff may just fall off on a hot day over time. Mobile electronics Australia is a good source on anything sound wise for cars.

tescoking · Postby **tescoking** » Wed Nov 27, 2013 12:46 am

Where did you set your sub and amp?

sweep77 · Postby **sweep77** » Wed Nov 27, 2013 8:10 am

In the boot. I made a small box to house 2 8" subs and put it in the left side of the boot. It was just a cheap setup. If I got a sub now I'd probably get a 6.5" hybrid audio sub in a proper box.

dmad_dood · Postby **dmad_dood** » Wed Nov 27, 2013 8:39 am

tescoking wrote:Where did you set your sub and amp?

I havent done sub and amp yet. Im going to do it in this order. sound deadening, amp, speakers, then sub.

I also found the spot where the door card was rattling and its much better now with the deadening.

I guess with this stuff its a lot of trial and error.

Jono.