Go-Kart racing.

[zossy1]

Little Decks is right - this is a junior frame - but not a junior clubby frame, look at that axle and brake disk! This is a J frame. Tiny axle, no third bearing, probably only a 28mm diameter tube... At 110 kgs you are not going to enjoy this frame! It will twist like an elastic band :/

[little decks]

Yes, completely right, didn't even notice it only had 2 carriers, this thing will have some serious (like way too much) inside rear pick-up, at a decent weight with a sticky tyre there is every possibility you could bend that chassis.

[ja9]

Yes agree with comments above. Sell it and buy the right frame for your size which would be a 32/32. Meaning all tubes are 32mm diameter.

[Pokmx5]

i dont think its a junior frame, it's a Tony Kart Nordik EXP i'll measure it tonight. Is it the inner or the outer of the tube you measure?


i also have a thicker axle in the car... which reminds me i should take it out.

[Pokmx5]

Do you know what class this kart was used in? Looking at the axle and white number plate I would think it has been set up for a skinny kid racing junior clubman, It's not really a big issue to run around practicing in but it looks like there are no locations for extra bars, which probably means that kart will flex and grip up way too much if you start getting serious.

well to be honest this is just to learn and have fun on at the track. So if its ok to have fun with on the track then im happy with that, but isnt it grip you want on a track? i do have a thicker axle to play with. I could always pass it onto my kid in the future.

[little decks]

Karting is all about momentum, unless you race KZ... if the kart flexes it will not drive off the corner, when a kart has too much grip it will also tend to bounce through the middle of the corner, which washes off lots of mid corner speed... The more I look at the chassis, the more I pick up all the details that it is suitable for a low grip light weight junior class (junior national, as zossy said) The seat stay setup is in the wrong position for the nordic chassis so it can fit a shorter driver, and there is neither a front or rear removable bar which all modern senior chassis will have.

ja9 is very right about the tube diameter, for the weight you will be running you would really need 32/32, you could probably get away with a 32/30 but anything smaller will just flex too much.

[Pokmx5]

the stay i assume is the silver arm that's hooked to the middle chassis. I just put it that way cause i didn't know how to fit it lol.

But at 28mm is not going to brake right? YOU got my worried now.

Seniors

* 135Kgs
* 155Kgs
* 175Kgs


16+

60-110Kg <- driver weight.

Yamaha S

16 HP

1040mm

Rear Axle typically 40mm dia and chassis 28mm or 30mm dia.

[little decks]

that is really specs for clubman light/heavy, which uses a Yamaha air cooled 100cc, the best class in terms of low maintenance and ease of use is TAG restricted for a beginner (push button to start rather than push the thing down a hill) which uses several 125cc watercooled engines, which produce a bit more power and have more weight (bigger engine, radiator & water), which really needs 30mm chassis minimum.

The seat stay I was referring to is the fixed one on the left hand side of the chassis, all senior tony kart chassis I have seen (including Nordic) have fixed seat stays on both sides, I weigh in just under 80kgs, and I run the two fixed stays with an extra stay to the inside bearing carrier on the Tony Kart EVR, has all the extra bars and a 40mm axle with quite long rear wheel hubs and it is a 30mm chassis.... It is probably a little too stiff but keep in mind I am running closer to Rotax light weight than Rotax heavy.

If you are having a decent go and hit a bump with the loaded rear tyre there is the possibility you will break the seat stay on the junior chassis, it is only really designed for a kid not much over 60kgs.

[Pokmx5]

what would you suggest i do at this point. Use it with a rotax TAG system and learn the kart or?

[little decks]

I wouldn't race it, it really depends on how much you are into it for $$ wise, if you have a view to eventually racing, I wouldn't get too invested in using this chassis because whatever you pick up about driving it and setting it up will be largely useless to you... what I would normally recommend is that prior to buying anything is to get out to race meetings at your local clubs and see what classes are popular out your way, who is racing in them, what gear they run, have a chat with the guys that are out there and look at how that all sits with what you want to spend and what you want to get out of it... what I wouldn't do is:

a) buy something of the internet before looking at the local club environment and looking at what class you want to race

b) just going to a kart shop, they can be helpful but if you go in there without going to a meeting and talking to some competitors you could walk out of there thinking you got the bare essentials when in fact you just bought "the shop, with sauce".

There isn't much more anyone can tell you over the internet, as we all have our own ideas on what we want to get out of our racing/karting, for me I want to race the fastest and most competitive classes I can, and I want to run at the front (thats why I am not racing karts while at uni because I can't afford that level now that Dad isn't paying).

[Pokmx5]

but as a basher around the track this Kart shoud be fine with a 100cc right? I eventually want to get into racing but not at the current time as i cant afford.

[little decks]

Sure, you thinking Yamaha KT100S? I would probably run like a Dunlop SL1 tyre though, it will be pretty slippery but an MG red or similar will be too grippy for that chassis at that weight I would think.

[Pokmx5]

Thanks Little Deck,

Your knowledge on this is fantastic. Ill just build this kart and put a 100s in it and get those slippery tires for now. Drive at the local kart and when i'm sure i want to compete ill change it over for a 32/32 as you recommended.

[little decks]

No worries, always happy to talk all things kart.

Have a talk to others running different chassis in the class you are looking at running when you upgrade, you might get some interesting feedback, something like "an OTK (Tony Kart, Kosmic, FA, Redspeed) 30mm chassis works best, but if running an Arrow chassis the 32mm chassis is the go".

[Pokmx5]

Looks like im trading the go kart in for a 32mm Topkart. Of course i need to pay ontop.