How to turbo your NA for $2000.

Postby **NitroDann** » Mon Jul 08, 2013 7:48 pm

So starting at the throttle body, Im going to have the traditional 2.5" vertical straight down pipe, Ill then go down to 2" and across the bay, this way if an intercooler is added later, this piece of the puzzle has already been made and ready, complete with BOV fitting (although blocked) and ICV fitting.

A BOV can be fitted at any time in about 10 minutes and it saves remaking the this section. This costs the same in material as doing it the easy way, but builds an upgrade path into this side of the system.

Dann

Sean · Postby **Sean** » Mon Jul 08, 2013 9:14 pm

Best part about the way you're building this is the pretty obvious and easy upgrade paths.

bootz · Postby **bootz** » Mon Jul 08, 2013 10:30 pm

OurCognitiveSurplus wrote:Are these images dead for anyone else, or just me?

Dead sexy, that's what they are....

Postby **NitroDann** » Tue Jul 09, 2013 4:51 pm

Clocking the turbo to get a nice piping path is next.

Take your circlip pliers and remove this circlip on the front housing, T25/28 have 6 bolts instead of the circlip.
It may be rusted on quite hard so you might need a bit of wd40 overnight to get it free.

This is the turbo with the front housing removed.

This pic illustrates the variety of mounting option you have, the outlet can spin all the way around.

Dann

Postby **NitroDann** » Tue Jul 09, 2013 4:57 pm

And with the rear circlip removed we can remove the Centre Housing Rotating Assembly (CHRA).

Now the centre housing can be reinstalled with the oil feed on top and the drain facing down as pictured.

Dann

Dweezle · Postby **Dweezle** » Tue Jul 09, 2013 5:56 pm

Do the turbo housings take any form of lubricant or sealant when putting back together?

Sent from my GT-I9100T using Tapatalk 2

Postby **NitroDann** » Tue Jul 09, 2013 6:02 pm

Nothing at all.

You could put some grease on but then they will be a thousand degrees so.. yeh.

Dann

Postby **NitroDann** » Tue Jul 09, 2013 6:28 pm

So the downpipe flange isnt QUITE what the flange for a T25/28 is, so Im going to make one.

Mount in vice.

Cardboard and a hammer, gently tap on the studs to cut through.

Stud pattern.

Transfer through to your steel plate with spray paint.

Dann

toppertee · Postby **toppertee** » Tue Jul 09, 2013 9:25 pm

Are you counting your labour in this build, or is this like wheeler dealers?
Or are you just showing people how it can be done, for $2000?
BTW wheeler dealers is one of my favorite shows.

Postby **NitroDann** » Tue Jul 09, 2013 9:26 pm

Its a customers car, the only thing it has that isnt stock is the 2" exhaust instead of factory 1.75".

The job is costing the customer 2k.

My cost is less than that, Its closer to 1000 than 2000, put it that way.

Dann

fastfreddygassit · Postby **fastfreddygassit** » Wed Jul 10, 2013 12:17 am

Nice work so far. :NETPOINTZ:

Are you going to get both the manifold faces machined/skimmed or will they be ok for this build?

93_Clubman · Postby **93_Clubman** » Wed Jul 10, 2013 12:51 pm

Great stuff Dann - tks for sharing it!

Postby **NitroDann** » Wed Jul 10, 2013 1:58 pm

fastfreddygassit wrote:Nice work so far.
Are you going to get both the manifold faces machined/skimmed or will they be ok for this build?

Im going to face them with a belt sander and use gaskets, on a serious racecar no gaskets are used, because they are yet another failure point, but here it will be fine.

Dann

Postby **NitroDann** » Wed Jul 10, 2013 6:08 pm

Not much done today, Drilled the earlier marked holes.

About half an hour with a round file to get the holes spot on and nicely fitting.

This is the exhaust side of the turbo, shown open is the wastegate port, the flapper door is the wastegate flapper and opens to allow exhaust gases to bypass the exhaust wheel shown at the bottom, with less gases the wheels spin less and the turbo produces less boost, this is how boost control works with an internal wastegate like this.

I ported the opening a little larger, being careful to leave at least 1mm sealing surface (ie the hole is 2mm smaller than the flapper is.)

On the inside I ported the entry to the wastegate hole.

So next we will mark the shape of the flange and the cut it out.

The reason Ive ported this wastegate is because the turbo is quite small, even for a 1.6L, the wastegate might have trouble flowing enough gas to bypass the turbine wheel enough for good boost control and as a result boost may rise with rpm as the wastegate has a harder and harder time bypassing gas for boost control.

This is just a bit of extra just in case kind of work.

Dann

Postby **Okibi** » Wed Jul 10, 2013 6:23 pm

NitroDann wrote:....The reason Ive ported this wastegate is because the turbo is quite small, even for a 1.6L, the wastegate might have trouble flowing enough gas to bypass the turbine wheel enough for good boost control and as a result boost may rise with rpm as the wastegate has a harder and harder time bypassing gas for boost control..

Quick note for those SE owners reading, the stock SE turbo has this issue once you put on a good intake/exhaust. Owners do a similar porting job on the standard SE IHI turbo to avoid boost spikes. I'm sure Dann would be happy to modify SE turbos for a price or encourage you to upgrade turbos.