Poor braking performance :S

sailaholic · Postby **sailaholic** » Mon Jun 03, 2013 11:29 pm

Apu wrote:Ehh..I found it easier to just gravity bleed the brakes. Just don't have too many beers whilst you're waiting.

Agree used this method for the new clutch line, got distracted and nearly drained the res.

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sailaholic · Postby **sailaholic** » Mon Jun 03, 2013 11:31 pm

NitroDann wrote:It would be good if you had a local track guru to take it for a 5 minute drive.

Dann

What is considered a track guru? I assume your just wanting someone who is used to driving a mx5 reasonably hard to give an impression?

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Byron_s13 · Postby **Byron_s13** » Mon Jun 03, 2013 11:35 pm

I skimmed them! They did not cover all of this.

The first part is a brake booster test have you done that?

Cheers for the heart felt responce.

Byron_s13 · Postby **Byron_s13** » Mon Jun 03, 2013 11:40 pm

Ps look what it says in my job discription before riding me off.

trolling

Postby **NitroDann** » Tue Jun 04, 2013 12:05 am

sailaholic wrote:
NitroDann wrote:It would be good if you had a local track guru to take it for a 5 minute drive.

Dann

What is considered a track guru? I assume your just wanting someone who is used to driving a mx5 reasonably hard to give an impression?

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Yeah and who has experienxe with the system.

Dann

sailaholic · Postby **sailaholic** » Tue Jun 04, 2013 7:35 am

Byron_s13 wrote:I skimmed them! They did not cover all of this.

The first part is a brake booster test have you done that?

Cheers for the heart felt responce.

Byron_s13
Ok, sorry didn't check your profile, just there has been a few trolls coming around lately and as it was mentioned by andrew (Steampunk) it's been a persistent problem, over a number of fluid changes etc.
Anyway, water under the bridge i hope, thanks for your genuine help.

I have done the test, but it was more then a year ago, so i will do it again tonight when i get access to the car again tonight (driving my mums car for 2 days as she is away for 12 months.)

Dann, Plohls car is almost exactly the same hardware na6 converted to na8/nba calipers and rotors. Googling says they did change master cylinders until "sport" brakes. while not a track "guru" he has done a few track days now, and does reasonably well on our version of "wonton way" ?spelling?.

Hopefully will up able to update booster test and master cyc size tonight.

Byron_s13 · Postby **Byron_s13** » Tue Jun 04, 2013 8:24 am

Also get yourself a set of verniers find out the minimum thickness for the rotor size that matches your master cylinder.

It may be an idea to get yourself a seal kit for your calipers it will take you about 2hrs to rebuild all the brakes with wet and dry sandpaper and brake rubber grease. It will only cost you $40 and its piece of mind to know your sh*t is fresh.

sailaholic · Postby **sailaholic** » Tue Jun 04, 2013 9:18 am

Byron_s13 wrote:Also get yourself a set of verniers find out the minimum thickness for the rotor size that matches your master cylinder.

I have a set of verniers, just need a new battery

. I assume the idea here is to see if the pedal / master is bottoming out? I can say the pedal definitely doesn't bottom out at the moment due to pedal stroke being far longer when we were testing the rear calipers vs normal driving.

Byron_s13 wrote:It may be an idea to get yourself a seal kit for your calipers it will take you about 2hrs to rebuild all the brakes with wet and dry sandpaper and brake rubber grease. It will only cost you $40 and its piece of mind to know your sh*t is fresh.

Will see how i got with the rest first. for memory the rear brakes calipers are supposed to be a bit of pain due to hard to rear circlips.

johnnyreble · Postby **johnnyreble** » Tue Jun 04, 2013 12:01 pm

I have an NA, I put NB new rotors and pads in but it didn't make a lot of difference,

then recently I had the fluid flushed out and new fluid in and WOW what a difference ... highly recommended

Byron_s13 · Postby **Byron_s13** » Tue Jun 04, 2013 10:01 pm

Circlips are only a pain if you don't buy the right circlip plyers for the job! There are about 12 diffrent types and a few different sizes in different types with different ends that seem to always work the wrong way :0

I've got about 4 different types in my tool box but I always end up modifying my long nose plyers on the bench grinder

Go on YouTube and type in caliper rebuild there may be an mx5 one up in there

you can buy the right ones they are only around $10

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Tue Jun 04, 2013 11:02 pm

Just another possibility. The pic is from the LHD workshop manual, but you get the general idea.

Found at http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=341162. Start around post #5

sailaholic · Postby **sailaholic** » Tue Jun 04, 2013 11:49 pm

Got the car back tonight but I only have 3 cyclinders at the best of times, sometimes 2. One might be a failed eBay Toyota cop unit. The other one seemed to be related to wiring at the ecu plug so brakes might have to take a step back, hopefully still this week.

Completely forgot to do the booster check. will do that in the morning.

Checked the casting on the master says 7/8 which matches with what the intranets says for non sport brakes.

Thanks manga ill check that, interestingly repco don't have a listing for the brake booster line, just say to use plain hose.

Got no issue getting circlip pliers if need be.

Steampunk · Postby **Steampunk** » Tue Jun 04, 2013 11:55 pm

sailaholic wrote:Thanks manga ill check that, interestingly repco don't have a listing for the brake booster line, just say to use plain hose.

No need, unless you removed/changed it, then it's in there.
The barbs on either end of the one-way valve was a super-tight fit into the new hose but I wrapped that blue tape to ensure no leaks.

If you feel the need to change it DO NOT use plain hose, squeeze it and you'll realise. You need proper vacuum hose to withstand the amount of suction involved. The stuff I bought was quite expensive, from memory it was around $20 just for 40cm worth.

Byron_s13 · Postby **Byron_s13** » Wed Jun 05, 2013 12:08 am

Steampunk wrote:
sailaholic wrote:Thanks manga ill check that, interestingly repco don't have a listing for the brake booster line, just say to use plain hose.

No need, unless you removed/changed it, then it's in there.
The barbs on either end of the one-way valve was a super-tight fit into the hose but I wrapped that blue tape to ensure no leaks.

If you feel the need to change itDO NOT use plain hose, squeeze it and you'll realise. You need proper vacuum hose to withstand the amount of suction involved. The stuff I bought was quite expensive, from memory it was around $20 just for 40cm worth.

Cotton braid LOLA (heater hose spec but in 3/8) is good for 300psi so you can use that or silicone hose. I sell it for around $10 a metre
The brake booster test I told you to do will also test that valve. Other wise just blow and suck through the hose u will feel the valve shut off and open up

If the pedal does not sink like normal after being turned off for a minut that valve is stuffed your hose is cracked or your diafram is split

Steampunk · Postby **Steampunk** » Wed Jun 05, 2013 12:44 am

Byron_s13 wrote:Cotton braid LOLA (heater hose spec but in 3/8) is good for 300psi so you can use that or silicone hose.

Nope. Heater hose, or similar, will not work.
There's world of difference between a hose that can withstand bursting than a hose that retains wall-integrity under vacuum.

Think of a simple drinking straw. Obviously, block one end and you will never come close to bursting it no matter how hard you blow, but suck it and it's a completely different story.

Byron_s13 wrote:If the pedal does not sink like normal after being turned off for a minut that valve is stuffed your hose is cracked or your diafram is split

What?!