Filter Tip

[Apu]

http://www.mx5mania.com.au/product638.htm

Yup! Mania now stock the Works Engineering relocator kits. Makes changing the filter easy as!

[bootz]

You mean someone would even try without a oil filter wrench?
Come on now!

I don't use a wrench, but I don't over or under tighten and have no problems, and that applies to all the cars I have owned and serviced.

Works for me.
The first time I have to use the trusty motocycle chain grip, in twenty years never failed me, though it may crush the old filter, then use MrRevheads light touch approach. Cannot see any point in paying a mech to drain and replace fluid.

[Rocky]

The NB filter set-up is different from both the NA and NC. If you have a look at the NB location you will see what I mean. It is almost impossible to grip the filter with your hand from either the engine bay OR from below. From above there is a stack of stuff in the way and from below you need an arm with three universal joints.
It's not about how tight the filter is, it's the fact that you can only get the tips of three fingers on it. It takes me 90 minutes to do the job because I can't grip the damn thing and when I eventually get it loose you have to drop it (splashing oil around) as you can't extract your hand whilst holding it. If you haven't tried removing an NB8B filter, you have no idea how difficult it is.
There is virtually no room for a filter wrench, certainly not for one that requires you to hold two handles like pliers.
Last time I did the job I eventually (took me over half an hour) managed to manoeuvre a 'ring style' filter tool over the very end, laboriously tighten it, and move it a few millimetres at a time until I could then undo it with the tips of my fingers.
The filter with the nut on the end sounds like it could be the best option as there is just enough room to get a socket and bar in from below.
I'm not prepared to relocate the filter but can see that the best access is from the engine bay if only I could get my hand down between all the stuff that is currently in the way.
Mazda engineers should be smacked senseless with a bunch of limp celery for doing this to us!

[Mr Morlock]

Guys the answer is simple- and way back in the first or so response. There is a purpose built filter wrench for this type of difficult to get to filter- ie not just for MX5's . It slips over the filter and you put a ext bar on it and turn and it locks to the dia of the filter- easy and effective. Repeating again- no need to relocate the filter thats just a waste of money. One of the sponsors ( Mania I think) has the filter remover. I have removed the filter at least 10 times without the need for any filter wrench just by using a belt and hand pressure but after breaking the belt the last time ( well it was the strong relly that broke the old belt) I figured discretion was the better part of more damage to my limbs - so get the right tool. I will have it ready at the next change.
Hope that is useful.

[NitroDann]

The answer is dont do up the filter so tight, it doesnt need to be tight, it has a HUGE O ring to seal it so only very little pressure will keep it sealed and its not structural so only put it on and then turn it an 1/8th turn.

It wont ever be difficult to remove again.

Dann

[Magpie]

Have a look here http://www.transquip.com.au/search.php?search_query=oil+filter

[Mr Morlock]

good one Magpie - they are the types for the job. Nitro's advice is right but it does not always work out like that ie that- sometimes the not too tight filter does not cooperate.

[manga_blue]

It's just beating your head against a brick wall sometimes, isn't it Dann?

I've used a filter wrench once, in 2006. Since then it's just been finger tips only to tighten and loosen and never takes me more than a minute. Never had a leak there, ever. Rocky I've got extra electronics and a coolant re-route pipe running along and under my NA intake. An NB one is a cake walk in comparison.

Guys, you just need to get in touch with your feminine side when you do the things up.

[Pamex]

Manga and Dann are right. You are doing them up far too tight if you have issues.The only tool you should/may need is a rubber glove for more grip getting it off. Sorry but most people over tighten a lot of things. Oil filters never need to be tight. Relax. Take it easy.

[Rocky]

Ha! Thanks guys, but no, it's NOT about tightness at all. As I said, it's the fact that on the NB8B you can only get the tips of your fingers on the sucker.
I never tighten ANYTHING more than I absolutely have to - wheel nuts, sump plug, spark plugs.
I have never come across a more awkward filter on anything I have owned in the last 40 years.
I have also never come across anything that was so low to the deck that you couldn't crawl under it to remove the sump plug.
Put the two together and you have a real 'pain-in-the-ass' oil change.
I am going to relocate some stuff so I can get my arm down to it from the top.

[Suspense]

Take the strut brace off. It'll take no more than a few seconds (4 bolts) and gives you a lot more room to move your arms into position.

[bigdog]

I understand Rocky's pain. This is the intake side of my car prior to fixing the problem. Red arrow shows where your arm needs to go to remove filter (going through the wheel arch is no less painful).



This is the solution. I relocated my washer bottle with a Nopro kit, and added an oil filter relocation kit purchased on ebay for $140:



You can see the offending bracket that slices into your arm in this shot - but that is all in the past now. Oil changes take 10 minutes with no mess or pain:



BTW, the kit can be mounted in a variety of places - Rocky's car will have the washer bottle in a different location.

[Suspense]

You don't have to spend a cent on relocating anything if you just take the 4 bolts off to remove the strut brace. With that out of the way you've got a pretty clear path for one arm straight to the filter. I had to use a filter wrench to get mine off but there was enough space to do that (and the replacement filter was screwed on much looser so there won't be a need for the wrench next time).

[mitch_f1]

I use one of these:


Works every time. Available at any good autoparts shop

[Rocky]

Great photos Bigdog! The REAL problem is the location of the brake lines in front of the Brake Booster. There is no reason why they couldn't be about 4 cms closer to the Booster but they restrict a small channel all the way down to the filter. I have had a good look at them but there is no easy way to move them.
This morning I filed off an 'ear' on the corner of the Strut Brace which frees up just enough millimetres to get my arm down all the way to the filter and be able to grasp it with my hand. It's not comfortable but at least I can get there. Tomorrow we will see if I can twist the filter off.
Suspense - You mean remove the WHOLE Strut Brace don't you? Not just the horizontal bit on the top that attaches with the 4 bolts. Removing the top piece doesn't help as it is the vertical bit that meets the top of the damper tower that is in the way. (I thought the car might fall in half if I removed the whole brace)
Tomorrow I am just going to park it straddling the gutter outside my house and slither under to remove the sump plug, then try to get the filter from down through the engine bay (without ringbarking my arm)

Arrows on picture indicate:
Top: How the brake lines are poorly sited.
Bottom: Where I filed off the 'ear' on the Strut Brace.