Andrew's '93 NA6 - KL V6 swap

[stb]

Congratulations on getting this far, good to see it still getting better.

[Beelzeboss]

Congratulations on getting this far, good to see it still getting better.

Thanks stb

I made new plug leads today. Aftermarket leads for the mx6/probe were $120 for the cheapies, a universal V8 DIY set was $40





I also put in an old Pioneer stereo which was in my previous car. It easy to use, sounds good and has no delay when changing songs so it's good enough for me.



I need to get a 1.5 DIN pocket or make an alloy plate to put gauges in. What does everybody do about the fact that the space is wider than a standard din?

[16bit]

does this mean it doesn't choke under full load anymore?

if so please make a changeable back section to the exhaust for added noise.

[Beelzeboss]

does this mean it doesn't choke under full load anymore?

if so please make a changeable back section to the exhaust for added noise.

Ahahaha, it works fine under full load now though it badly needs tuning. I was seeing 20:1 AFR's at one point under full load (that's when I stopped giving it the beans and nursed it home). The loud exhaust will happen after rego

The V6 thermostat has crapped out, the car was logged at 120 degrees after a really short drive yet I could put my hand on the radiator and it was cold. I hope it hasn't damaged anything, it was running fine when I turned it off.

[manga_blue]

I need to get a 1.5 DIN pocket or make an alloy plate to put gauges in. What does everybody do about the fact that the space is wider than a standard din?

This.


http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/radio-cubby-p-119.html

[Beelzeboss]

Thanks Manga

Well I've confirmed that the sump has two pinhole leaks which need to be welded up (that means engine out AGAIN, f&^# this stupid piece of s&$# car and my crappy welding /vent) and it has a blown head gasket (massive pain to change on the KL, cams need to come out), AND there's a ground loop somewhere in the electrical system which I can't find and it's causing the water temp and TPS signal to go crazy, hence the jerky ride on the test drive. Though I think the TPS may be on its way out because it doesn't return to the same resistance each time when against the idle stop.

I'm pretty busy with uni at the moment and I'm so over this car and its issues so it's unlikely there'll be any more significant updates until mid semester break in July. Hopefully by then I'll have some motivation back to finish the car. In the mean time I'm happy enough driving the Silvia... or maybe I should sell the Silvia and buy a stock NA6

[Dan-mx5]

That really sucks!
Would another engine help?

[NitroDann]

You sure the TPS is buggered? Does the KL have a solid throttle stop or the friction shock absorber style?

Dann

[Beelzeboss]

That really sucks!
Would another engine help?

Might be easier than changing the head gaskets

You sure the TPS is buggered? Does the KL have a solid throttle stop or the friction shock absorber style?

Dann

I'm not sure if its stuffed but it has a hard stop which should stop it in exactly the same place each time and the reading varies by up to 5 ohms IIRC, I'll get a definite number tomorrow. If I tell the ECU to learn 0% when the throttle is shut it can go up to 7% randomly without touching the throttle.

There was definitely a ground loop in the system, I had a look at the diagram showing how I wired it all up. However I cut a couple of unnecessary ground wires and now the TPS, water temp sensor and MAP are all only grounded at the ECU but it's STILL going skitz when it's running. The TPS is worse than the water temp.

[A.Chen89]

running any high current near the tps cables? shielded twisted pair should help if its interference

[Beelzeboss]

Thanks Chen, I think interference is the problem now that I've eliminated the ground loop in the system. I'm going to shorten a few of the wires (including TPS) and reroute them away from the HT leads. If that doesn't work I'll look at shielding

I've been pretty busy with uni and I now no longer have space to remove the engine to fix the oil leak in the sump Because of this I've started making a new *special* manifold for the V6







Two of the ports are a bit weird because I initially tried using a 1 1/4" holesaw to get the general shape. The saw cut oversize so it doesn't look great, I'm going to be welding it up and porting it with the dremel before it's assembled. The rest were cut freehand on the mill using the gasket as a template.
The extra random holes in the plate are because it was from the scrapyard and they were already there. I'll weld them up and it'll be fine.

I'll have space to fix the sump oil leak in the break between semesters which is in about a months time.

[Beelzeboss]

It still needs porting, two corners welded on and the top put on. Then I need to make the fuel rail and brackets along with a few other pieces. Luckily at TAFE we've pretty much finished the course so I'm free to work on whatever I want for the final 4 weeks

[Beelzeboss]

Another great night welding at TAFE, the special new intake is really taking shape now.









Still a lot more to do on it but the difficult part is done. There's a bit of contamination due to the scrap yard aluminium and having the A/C balance turned way up on the welder to get enough penetration. I wire brushed the ally beforehand but obviously not quite enough in places.

[Beelzeboss]

Not sure if anyone is still reading this but I'll keep posting so there's a record of what I've done.

Due to the unavailability of good quality cheap 70mm throttle bodys (Those $90 ebay ones are apparently not great according to the forum reviews I read) I decided to make my own. They're not complicated, they just need to be precise to seal properly.





The corner is missing because the piece of aluminium is from the scrapyard, the same piece in fact which I used to make the manifold.
You can see in the 2nd pic how the throttle blade was machined so it sits at an angle of 5 degrees. This is to stop it binding and help it seal when shut.
I made the blade out of 3mm stainless simply because that's what I had on hand. It should be made of thinner material to increase flow but I'm going to knife edge it and dremel out the centre of the pivot shaft to compensate.
The shaft will be supported on either side by 8mm I.D ball bearings to ensure it doesn't bind up or wear out, and that it feels smooth.

If this throttle performs well on the car I might look at making a few to sell. They're not hard to make now that I've made a jig to produce the throttle plates. I still need to source a common/cheap variable TPS, any recommendations?

[Jeo]

Not sure if anyone is still reading this but I'll keep posting so there's a record of what I've done.

Always excited to see a new post in this thread, particularly when it says the last post was made by yourself. Normally means new content