Looking for engine options

Kenstaki · Postby **Kenstaki** » Tue Mar 26, 2013 8:52 am

@morlock: Yeah, that's a fair point.

Mr Morlock · Postby **Mr Morlock** » Tue Mar 26, 2013 9:06 am

Kenstaki-- Pamex' advice looks good. I suggest give them a call - if you are in RACV you prob have a free tow though a flat top is not that expensive. Good luck- it might not be too bad.

93_Clubman · Postby **93_Clubman** » Tue Mar 26, 2013 9:22 am

Kenstaki wrote:I've contacted the following places, does anyone know any other places to get a motor in Melbourne?

Deckspeed
MX5Mania
ALLMAZ
Aladn Motor Wreckers
AutoJap Auto Parts Recyclers
Motorsport Essentials
Jap Heaven Auto Recyclers
South East Auto
Mazspares
MX5Factory
SmartParts

MrsB has just posted an NB8B motor for sale in SE Melb: viewtopic.php?f=44&t=57307

Kenstaki · Postby **Kenstaki** » Tue Mar 26, 2013 10:23 am

MrsB has just posted an NB8B motor for sale in SE Melb: viewtopic.php?f=44&t=57307

The NB8A ECU wouldn't be able to control an NB8B motor with VVT I believe.

MrRevhead · Postby **MrRevhead** » Tue Mar 26, 2013 10:32 am

It's not a NB8A motor, but it is another possible option (possibility to run with VVT disabled?) or if the user has the ECU to sell with it.

http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=57307

93_Clubman · Postby **93_Clubman** » Tue Mar 26, 2013 10:50 am

Kenstaki wrote:
MrsB has just posted an NB8B motor for sale in SE Melb: viewtopic.php?f=44&t=57307

The NB8A ECU wouldn't be able to control an NB8B motor with VVT I believe.

Correct, but now VVT controllers are available: http://949racing.com/vvtuner-miata.aspx

Kenstaki · Postby **Kenstaki** » Tue Mar 26, 2013 7:52 pm

Thanks clubman and Revhead. I'll do my home work, but any other considerations come to mind? Eg. Would the NB8A loom plug straight in?

Kenstaki · Postby **Kenstaki** » Tue Mar 26, 2013 10:05 pm

Just jotting down some considerations

-Locations of some sensors on NB8B motor may have been moved. NB8A loom may not reach components.
-VVT on NB8B motor. Need after market VVT controller or NB8B ECU + NB8B loom? I assume NB8B engine will run without VVT controller? Just with regular valve timing?

Kenstaki · Postby **Kenstaki** » Wed Mar 27, 2013 10:36 am

According to http://www.miataturbo.net/general-miata ... 851/page3/

This guys setup he's using;

99-00 ecu
99-00 intake
99-00 Injectors
99-00 fuel rail
99-00 coils - need to move away from directly between the firewall and vvt head to allow clearance for the vvt cam sensor (http://www.miataturbo.net/general-miata ... post856678).
99-00 fuel injector harness

VVT head.
Used the cam sensor from the VVT, just got the wire out of the engine harness and it reached the back where the VVT cam sensor is.

93_Clubman · Postby **93_Clubman** » Wed Mar 27, 2013 11:14 am

Seems like a plan.

Kenstaki · Postby **Kenstaki** » Thu Apr 04, 2013 8:57 pm

So I've got my hands on a BP-4W thanks to MrsB. No longer need to mess around with VVT controllers.

As you can see, I'm in the middle of taking the original engine out. I've seen some debate about removing the engine/trans as a whole or just the engine. The bell housing bolts don't seem too hard access, so I've decided to just take the engine out on it's own.

Do I need a clutch alignment tool to re-attach the transmission to the engine? I've read the tool is only for aligning the pressure plate to the clutch disk? I don't see how it helps in mating the transmission with the engine - please enlighten me.

Any tips or warnings that anyone cares to pass on? I'm following the Gregory's workshop manual...

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Thu Apr 04, 2013 11:11 pm

The alignment tool aligns the clutch plate to the spigot bearing in the back of the flywheel. You must do this if the clutch plate is removed or replaced, otherwise you've got buckleys of getting the gear shaft to go through the clutch plate into the spigot bearing successfully. If the clutch plate hasn't been disturbed then you won't need to align it.

rascal · Postby **rascal** » Fri Apr 05, 2013 8:38 am

Also it makes it easier if you reinstall the engine when the car is on the ground. Put the transmission in first gear and take off the handbrake. (assuming its on a flat surface so doesn't/can't roll away :!:

)
Then when you want to line up the splines you can roll the car an inch or so each way and because the gearbox is in gear the gearbox input shaft will turn and when aligned it pops straight in.

Done this a few times now and it makes it so much easier to line up the splines..

ralt · Postby **ralt** » Fri Apr 05, 2013 10:22 am

Hi.
The only real problem you may encounter is lining up the right hand engine mount if you put new ones in. The way to handle it is to attach the left hand mount to the chassis- don't tighten. Lower the engine line up engine mount and attach bolts. Get your scissor jack and position the base against the sway bar on the right hand side. Wind the jack to the engine mount until the bolt on the mount is above the slot- lower the engine slightly so the bolt is inside the slot. Remove the scissor jack- lower the engine- tighten all bolts. You may find the bolts on the mounts on the engine you have purchased face to the rear if so replace the mounts if you do this the above is the easy way.