Which oil for SE?

mehow · Postby **mehow** » Wed Mar 27, 2013 8:33 pm

Hey everyone,

Just signed up and new to the board. My name is Michal and I bought myself an SE about a year ago. So far am loving the car. I've been lurking on the forums a while and hope to get more involved having now signed up.

Was just wondering, for all the SE owners out there - which oil do you guys use and recommend? I recently had a service and my mechanic put in liqui-moly 10w60 fully synthetic. Since the change I have a feeling the oil may be too thick because the car just doesn't feel as responsive as before.

The car has the mania stage 1 kit installed, fm throttle elbow and has 45k kms on the clock if that helps.

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Wed Mar 27, 2013 8:35 pm

What does the manual say to use?

bear2230 · Postby **bear2230** » Wed Mar 27, 2013 10:18 pm

ELF EXCELLIUM SM 10w50 GRADE MOTOR OIL - 5L BOTTLE (FULL SYNTHETIC)

This is what Mania used in my SP.

Richard.

Crapweasel · Postby **Crapweasel** » Wed Mar 27, 2013 10:34 pm

Another vote for full synthetic here, and welcome to the forum!

Manual states between 10W30 & 10W50, there's a lot of guys who go with Mobil 1, especially in the US (check out http://www.mazda-speed.com for SE specific info and opinions) but I've used Shell Helix & Penrite 10/10ths with no noticeable difference in performance, but regular changes, no track days and DIY oil changes.

Post your location on your profile and you'll find a number of local people who are willing to offer their advice on mechanics, or even assist with teaching some DIY stuff (if you're in Brisbane, I'm happy to assist)

Oil question is the most commonly asked one, so please try using the search function before jumping in - most of the members on here have been around for a while, and see this question all the time, they've been a lot nicer than you'll find on other forums!

Postby **Okibi** » Thu Mar 28, 2013 2:00 am

Been using Motul 4100 Turbolight in the people mover and have been impressed with it so far but I change oil fairly regularly. Tempted to give it a go in the SE.

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Thu Mar 28, 2013 8:48 am

Crapweasel wrote:Manual states between 10W30 & 10W50, there's a lot of guys who go with Mobil 1, especially in the US (check out http://www.mazda-speed.com for SE specific info and opinions) but I've used Shell Helix & Penrite 10/10ths with no noticeable difference in performance, but regular changes, no track days and DIY oil changes.

Oils of different brands shouldn't have any performance difference, the viscousity ratings are standard across the board IIRC

ie:
Mobil 10w40 will be the same thickness as Elf 10w40, which will be the same thickness as Generic 10w40
The difference is any extra additives and quality control.

I'd just say use a half decent brand (doesn't matter which) and the viscousity as stated in the manual.

Your engine will be happier with a cheaper oil changed often than an expensive oil changed less often.

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Thu Mar 28, 2013 3:14 pm

hks_kansei wrote:Your engine will be happier with a cheaper oil changed often than an expensive oil changed less often.

It's just so hard not to bite when statements like this are made.

Current generation full synthetic oils are dearer than cheapo dino oils but do offer distinct advantages both cost wise and performance wise:
- lower friction, resulting in improved performance and reduced fuel consumption
- longer oil life, leading to extended oil change intervals
- better lubrication performance and reduced engine deposits, resulting in longer engine life and reduced breakdown risks, especially when you're working an engine hard.

A good quality full synthetic pays for itself just through the fuel consumption and extended change intervals alone, long before you factor in engine life or performance.

I saw 5 litre bottles of Penrite 10W50 full synthetic at $41 on special at Repco last month, then saw them at $39 list price at AutoOne last week. That's really good value for a good quality product.

edit: 10W50, not 10W40 as I first said. Anything in the range 0W-40, 10W40 or 10W50 should do.

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Thu Mar 28, 2013 3:39 pm

My point was more that Magnatec ($35) being changed every 10,000km will probably be better for an engine than Royal Purple ($100) changed every 20,000km

Yes, the Royal Purple might have something about that means it can last happily until 20,000km, but the problem is that you don't really know if it's fine for 20,000km, or only for 12,000km.

I would assume people use the recommended intervals as a maximum number, in which case for the price of one change with Royal Purple at 10,000km I could have changed with Magnatec every 3500km or so.

I'm not even considering the existance of unbranded $10 outside of it being used in an oil burning lamp (and it's probably crap at that too)

mehow · Postby **mehow** » Thu Mar 28, 2013 5:47 pm

Thanks for all the replies everyone! Will take advice and search a bit more thoroughly next time haha

The car's always had fully synthetic and gets changed every 5000kms so she gets looked after well, I just wanted to get an idea as to what everyone else is using. From the replies, I'm thinking at the moment my oil is too thick for what the car gets used for (daily and occasional track day).

Have a great easter all.

Aussie Stig · Postby **Aussie Stig** » Thu Mar 28, 2013 7:30 pm

So no 5w-40 recomms, is that a turbo thing?

Thinner the oil the faster the revving but I am guessing temps with the turbo is the thing.

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Thu Mar 28, 2013 9:51 pm

The first figure, like 5W, refers to the viscosity when the oil is cold. Anything at 10W or less is thin enough cold to pump up quickly at startup on an MX5 motor to get the lubrication working and minimise startup damage.

5W-40 means it has a viscosity like a straight 5 oil has when it's cold and a viscosity like a straight 40 oil has when it's hot. They're both relative measures though (relative to other single grade oils) and it's still thicker when cold than when hot.

Postby **NitroDann** » Fri Mar 29, 2013 12:23 am

If you have how's just don't change the oil until you start to get hla noise. Now you know how many kms your oil lasts.

Dann

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Fri Mar 29, 2013 2:24 pm

NitroDann wrote:If you have how's just don't change the oil until you start to get hla noise. Now you know how many kms your oil lasts.

Dann

??? Had a few last night, Dann?

It's an SE: no HLAs.

In any case you're sort of on the right track. 5,000kms is a pretty short change interval for full synthetic. I'm doing the OEM recommendations of 20,000kms on the daily drivers (falcon and euro makes, all country miles) and 10,000 on the MX5 now with no problems.

Postby **Okibi** » Fri Mar 29, 2013 2:59 pm

I haven't had a proper temperature gauge on my SE yet but the oil in stock NBs run very hot when pushed hard and that would make a huge difference to the life of the oil.

Postby **NitroDann** » Fri Mar 29, 2013 6:14 pm

manga_blue wrote:
NitroDann wrote:If you have how's just don't change the oil until you start to get hla noise. Now you know how many kms your oil lasts.

Dann
??? Had a few last night, Dann? It's an SE: no HLAs.

In any case you're sort of on the right track. 5,000kms is a pretty short change interval for full synthetic. I'm doing the OEM recommendations of 20,000kms on the daily drivers (falcon and euro makes, all country miles) and 10,000 on the MX5 now with no problems.

Didnt have a few, maybe that was the problem, forgot it was an NB, however if you have HLAs my advice is dead serious.

Dann