Whoops!

Engines, Transmissions & Final Drive questions and answers

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davekmoore
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Re: Whoops!

Postby davekmoore » Wed Feb 20, 2013 5:55 pm

emexv wrote:
manga_blue wrote:I thought that was meant to be a training day?


It was......I did it to mine last time I went out and I was sitting next to him. Only took one and a half laps,,,,,,,what a teacher !


Consistency. Over rated.
UK since return: Standard NC2 (horrid), C200K, ND2 BBR, NC2 BBR200 (loved it), NC BBR300 (better than BARMY), V-Special, turbo NB8B (my 84th car)

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emexv
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Re: Whoops!

Postby emexv » Wed Feb 20, 2013 6:05 pm

davekmoore wrote:
rascal wrote:Motorsport Essentials have 'BP Performance engines' from $2800.
Located in Mulgrave, Vic so a lot closer than California !!

http://www.motorsportessentials.com.au/ ... ce-engine/

Several members from Vic Mx5 club run their engines...

Another option to consider.


On it. Thanks.


I got a price from these guys. The add is a little misleading. A forged engine from them will set you back WAY more than $2800
Cheers
Mark

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wozzah1975
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Re: Whoops!

Postby wozzah1975 » Wed Feb 20, 2013 6:15 pm

manga_blue wrote:
davekmoore wrote:1. Replace oil cooler as there could be any kind of debris in there.
2. Replace original standard 127,000km clutch (with the same thing??).
3. Replace original 9 year old radiator.
4. Get some proper gauges.
5. MS2
6. Eagle rods
.

7. Old BP block, checked for cracks and straightness, line bored, decked, bored and honed as required
8. BP crankshaft, crack tested, plus ACL mains, big ends and thrust washers
9. Gasket and seal set
10. Pistons and ring set
11. Engine balance
12. I'd replace oil pump as a precaution
13. Sump and baffles?
14. Even if head is OK there'll probably be a damaged valve or two
15. Head shave to clean up the odd bit of mess made by loose metal
16. ACL Head studs
17. Timing belt kit if it was getting towards replacement time
18. Do you have a coolant re-route yet?
19. If replacing any valves then get the ports tidied up a bit
20. Anything else damaged in the area of the exit wounds

Forget the big turbo and spend it on more seat time. It's more fun.


This is pretty much the way I would go.

Unless you're hellbent on keeping original block number I would just scrap it and spend the money put asside for testing the old block/crank on a s/hand short engine and start with that.

I would add an external oil reg, and use an Xtreme h/duty organic clutch with one of their lightened flywheels. I would also add ARP main studs to the list.

Cheers
Woz
BP DOHC Mk1 Escort race car. Big Valve head, Cosworth Cams, Spool Rods, Nissan Pistons
www.facebook.com/pages/Warren-Heath-Per ... 4779879292

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davekmoore
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Re: Whoops!

Postby davekmoore » Wed Feb 20, 2013 10:49 pm

emexv wrote:
davekmoore wrote:
rascal wrote:Motorsport Essentials have 'BP Performance engines' from $2800.
Located in Mulgrave, Vic so a lot closer than California !!

http://www.motorsportessentials.com.au/ ... ce-engine/

Several members from Vic Mx5 club run their engines...

Another option to consider.


On it. Thanks.


I got a price from these guys. The add is a little misleading. A forged engine from them will set you back WAY more than $2800


$5k for the Trackspeed long motor still too much?
UK since return: Standard NC2 (horrid), C200K, ND2 BBR, NC2 BBR200 (loved it), NC BBR300 (better than BARMY), V-Special, turbo NB8B (my 84th car)

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MattR
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Re: Whoops!

Postby MattR » Sat Feb 23, 2013 8:22 pm

For a good quality road motor I budget about $1k per pot, for a race motor up around $2-3k per pot depending on how fast you want to go.

This has worked as a rough price guide for me for everything from Ford Cleveland and Windsor V8's, Valiant slant and hemi 6's and Datsun A and L series motors as well as the newer RB and SR series motors.

To quote a sign in Mad Max: "Speed is just a question of money, how fast an you go???"

If it was me rebuilding, I would get whatever my mechanic recommended me to get in terms of parts and machining to ensure i got the result I wanted with the reliability I wanted, and it also goes without saying use the best oil that best matches the requirements of your motor. In my case that generally means high zinc oils as I generally play and race with motors that are from the 70's and ealy 80's.

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davekmoore
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Re: Whoops!

Postby davekmoore » Sun Mar 03, 2013 12:31 am

Might be on the way to solving the short term impecuniosity.

Meanwhile I'm seriously considering rocking up to the next day at the track in the Shhhkoda. 1600kg, diesel, auto gearbox and auto parking. Ideal really.
UK since return: Standard NC2 (horrid), C200K, ND2 BBR, NC2 BBR200 (loved it), NC BBR300 (better than BARMY), V-Special, turbo NB8B (my 84th car)

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davekmoore
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Re: Whoops!

Postby davekmoore » Tue Apr 09, 2013 9:00 pm

Blacksters SE dyno.JPG
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UK since return: Standard NC2 (horrid), C200K, ND2 BBR, NC2 BBR200 (loved it), NC BBR300 (better than BARMY), V-Special, turbo NB8B (my 84th car)

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bear2230
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Re: Whoops!

Postby bear2230 » Tue Apr 09, 2013 10:50 pm

Specs please Dave, and 15psi is the right level.
Although 18psi would be nudging 200……… Thats what I'm talking about….

Richard.
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davekmoore
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Re: Whoops!

Postby davekmoore » Wed Apr 10, 2013 12:06 am

Thanks Richard. 15psi might have saved it. I put the dyno graph here only for Warren to see as it seemed impossible to put it in the PM to him. For the moment the most important factors of the specs is that the motor has expired (see the rest of the thread).

For what it's worth, the previous owner, Blackster, added: Mazdaspeed AEM air intake, Cooling Pro intercooler, SP Motorsports exhaust system (stainless 3 inch dump with HFC, 2.5 inch cat back), Denso 440cc injectors, GFB recirculation valve, BEGi TB inlet, Haltech interceptor, Haltech boost solenoid, OG 02 Clamp. Blackster did a great job adding these for a road car and it's only with hindsight that I realise road work is 1% WOT and track work might be 75% WOT so there are different cooling/oiling/fueling needs that I should have dealt with. To be fair to Mazda, the car took nearly 3 seasons of abuse from me before it broke.
UK since return: Standard NC2 (horrid), C200K, ND2 BBR, NC2 BBR200 (loved it), NC BBR300 (better than BARMY), V-Special, turbo NB8B (my 84th car)

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Re: Whoops!

Postby NitroDann » Wed Apr 10, 2013 12:33 am

Your iniectors are at 100% duty cycle.

Dann
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speed wrote:If I was to do it again, I wouldn't even consider the supercharger.

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davekmoore
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Re: Whoops!

Postby davekmoore » Wed Apr 10, 2013 1:42 am

NitroDann wrote:Your iniectors are at 100% duty cycle.

Dann


Thanks Dann. So they were leaning out and underfueling/overheating all the cylinders regardless of how good a job the Haltech was doing and despite the fact that the thing used 28 litres per 100 kms on the track?

So they need to go larger and maybe more fuel needed in general?

And maybe no more cooling is needed? But I will go overboard anyway with cooling when the motor is rebuilt.
UK since return: Standard NC2 (horrid), C200K, ND2 BBR, NC2 BBR200 (loved it), NC BBR300 (better than BARMY), V-Special, turbo NB8B (my 84th car)

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Re: Whoops!

Postby gslender » Wed Apr 10, 2013 8:56 am

NitroDann wrote:Your iniectors are at 100% duty cycle.

Dann


Where did you derive that conclusion from?
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Re: Whoops!

Postby bear2230 » Wed Apr 10, 2013 10:10 am

davekmoore wrote:Thanks Richard. 15psi might have saved it. I put the dyno graph here only for Warren to see as it seemed impossible to put it in the PM to him. For the moment the most important factors of the specs is that the motor has expired (see the rest of the thread).

For what it's worth, the previous owner, Blackster, added: Mazdaspeed AEM air intake, Cooling Pro intercooler, SP Motorsports exhaust system (stainless 3 inch dump with HFC, 2.5 inch cat back), Denso 440cc injectors, GFB recirculation valve, BEGi TB inlet, Haltech interceptor, Haltech boost solenoid, OG 02 Clamp. Blackster did a great job adding these for a road car and it's only with hindsight that I realise road work is 1% WOT and track work might be 75% WOT so there are different cooling/oiling/fueling needs that I should have dealt with. To be fair to Mazda, the car took nearly 3 seasons of abuse from me before it broke.

OK, I see now. I'm familiar with Barmy's mods. I thought you had your new motor rebuilt by Warren and I was just wondering about the internals.

Richard.
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davekmoore
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Re: Whoops!

Postby davekmoore » Wed Apr 10, 2013 10:29 am

gslender wrote:
NitroDann wrote:Your iniectors are at 100% duty cycle.

Dann


Where did you derive that conclusion from?


I reckon Dann would have derived that from being very clever with these things.
UK since return: Standard NC2 (horrid), C200K, ND2 BBR, NC2 BBR200 (loved it), NC BBR300 (better than BARMY), V-Special, turbo NB8B (my 84th car)

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Re: Whoops!

Postby 93_Clubman » Wed Apr 10, 2013 11:04 am

From late June 2009:
blackster wrote:
AB7 wrote:Blackster, your car is making very good power from stock turbo.
How much boost you are running? I assumed you got bigger injector as well.


440cc denso injectors
Map 2. 14 psi

It was running a bit rich 10.8-11.1 @ WOT, perhaps putting in the octane boost really does make a difference in lowering AFR, by one point.

It was a dynodynamics dyno done in shootout, so the numbers werent all that different from previous done when re-tuned last year in shootout. Was pretty cold yesterday, although shootout supposbly makes the correction.

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=37256&p=483789#p483789


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