What ECU for my SE

[gslender]

it can also optimise ignition timing (not sure on criteria, worth a read)!

It dithers the spark fwd and back 2*deg looking to see if there is a RPM increase without much load change (torque) and using this is provides some feedback for the tuner to decide if the spark table should be updated. I don't believe it updates the spark table directly.

G

[NitroDann]

This of course is only suitable for load areas where the car can be made to cruise without rpm change naturally (so no open throttle at all.)

Dann

[sailaholic]

I believe it does update the ignition map.

[gslender]

This of course is only suitable for load areas where the car can be made to cruise without rpm change naturally (so no open throttle at all.)

Dann

I actually think the idea is a little daft, and probably explains why few know about it or use it. Adaptronic forum is sparse on it, and the docs vague too.

It saying that, to be fair it is marked as being experimental.

G

[sailaholic]

This of course is only suitable for load areas where the car can be made to cruise without rpm change naturally (so no open throttle at all.)

Dann

Cruise would be no different to an uphil climb at high throttle percentages though surely?

[gslender]

This of course is only suitable for load areas where the car can be made to cruise without rpm change naturally (so no open throttle at all.)

Dann

Cruise would be no different to an uphil climb at high throttle percentages though surely?

Apparently the software detects continuous increasing RPM changes and discards any data associated with the spark dither. It looks purely for areas where small time window increases in RPM are in accordance with the recently applied 2*deg spark advance. When those continuously line up, the 2*deg spark advance is considered good and applied permanently - I was told it was kept independently of the spark table, but perhaps not. Either way interesting though.

I'm sure it also looks as MAP or TPS as a lock-out method to ensure it doesn't try doing it when clearly you've done something to increase the RPM.

G

[Sean]

Interesting topic,

The MS seems to be developing rapidly for our community - is it moving well for other makes, or is it our history as tinkerers that has helped the community to have input to the development and vice verse that makes it good in our community?

this holds back the turbo form getting hot enought to make boost

Perhaps the best thing I've read here in at least a year! People never seem to comprehend the idea of heat being important to boost creation - Where's Benny, I remeber him telling me this ten years ago and me looking at him like he was stupid

I know I will sound biased in saying this, but this "use the ECU the tuner knows" isn't the best advice.

I still like that advice, because to be honest, if a tuner doesn't like an ECU, or doesn't understand the way it operates, chances are they won't want to spend the time to learn to tune just one car. Chances are they have a long line of customers to look after regardless, and as a result, you might get a poorer result with their non preferred ECU.

***NOTE*** I'm not saying the same or similar could not be achieved with most ECUs, but the attitude and willingness to put in the time are likely not going to be there.

With that said, the above all hinges on you liking a particular tuner so much that you only want to use that tuner... Remeber if you have a falling out and want to change the tune, you may well face the same problem of finding a tuner that likes the ECU you have.

Personally I think i'll be choosing between a MS3 and an Adaptronic, both have great support for the MX-5 community.

Out of those I'd totally pick MS3... No doubt. 100%.

I've worked with Adaptronic before, and they were a nice thing once they're set-up and very flexible, however the support offered to everyone I know has been hit and miss. I know there are a lot of big fans of the ECU and Andy on here, but it seems like if you get him interested and on a good day, or if you're a nearby shop and sell a lot of his gear you get quick support, while other times you cant get the phone answered.

Kinda the same reason I tend to buy lots of gear locally from authorised dealers - a big support network available when the crap hits the fan. While I know MS is also hard to get hold of, like Dann says the community has embraced them so getting gthe right info or trouble shooting is much easier on them compared to others. I imagine it's like the old days when we all had Links running the FMLink software?

[kenson]

OK, so I've done some reading on the Mazdaspeed (US forums) to get an idea of what's wrong. I didn't drive my factory standard SE for long until I stuck on an AEM intake, MBC and new BOV. To be honest, i can't remember if hesitation existed in the low RPM ranges when the car was standard.

But after some more driving, I've noticed slight hesitation in the lower rev ranges when taking off from idle and when I floor it, it takes a few seconds until the car catches up.
From what I can see there are two problems
1) With the bolt-ons, the car's running lean.
2) The standard ECU takes time to move from closed loop to open loop.

To confirm this, I pulled out the TPS yesterday after work and went for a drive. Idle was up, the car was smelly but wow, all hesitation gone.
I had to clear a CEL after and I can confirm that the Torque Pro app on android works and can clear the CEL.

I don't plan on doing much more, maybe an exhaust one day and injectors.

So what are my options? Re-flash would be the way to go if I was local.
Parallel: I've heard good things about the AEM FIC. Really, to get rid of my hesitation, is it just a matter of adding more fuel?
Stand-alone: I would definitely be going down the MS route. I've already spoken to Gslender/Reverant.

The AEM FIC will still keep the standard ECU and OBDII still works which is nice. I'm pretty conservative when it comes to mods. I like this solution because I don't have to worry too much about idle etc. I'm definitely a DIYer and the MS would be a no-brainer if I had local knowledge.
[Edit] I'm taking a long time to decide because the AEM FIC costs almost the same as the MS...

Looks like my idea of a "legal" car is dying pretty quick. I upgraded to an SE so insurance etc would be easier... If I took that money and turbo'ed my old car...
Let's not go there and keep on topic

[NitroDann]

Looks like my idea of a "legal" car is dying pretty quick. I upgraded to an SE so insurance etc would be easier... If I took that money and turbo'ed my old car...
Let's not go there and keep on topic

I get shouted down for saying this every week..

I just tuned a local na6 with a plug and play with the newest firmware.

Wow, all I can say is wow. A good 10-15hp improvement, idle and starts like stock, nice super smooth pull all through the range.

He removed the stock ecu. Screwed in the AIT sensor, put one wire from his wife band to the wide band plug in the engine bay with a screw terminal and it started and ran nice first go.

I got it tuned really sweet and with lots of extra power in 2 hours or less and that's it, job done.

Dann

[kenson]

I got it tuned really sweet and with lots of extra power in 2 hours or less and that's it, job done.
Dann

How's a holiday in sunny Perth sound? Just kidding.

Newb alert: How do I go about installing a widebandO2 on the standard exhaust? I'm guessing there isn't a bung available like aftermarket DPs. Weld something in?

If only I could drive my car over or something. Getting it all done in one go would be awesome.

[NitroDann]

Remove stock sensor, insert WB02 sensor, run the 0-5V signal wire straight to the factory 02 sensor plug.

if running stock ecu still you will need to run the 0-1v narrowband simulation wire to the factory plug instead.

Easy as piss.

Main thing i was impressed about today is that whatever firmware was on it ran the car really nice, and 95% of the settings were pretty well spot on out of the box. Very very impressive package.

Dann

[Lokiel]

Remove stock sensor, insert WB02 sensor, run the 0-5V signal wire straight to the factory 02 sensor plug.
:

I thought the stock narrowband O2 location was a "No-No"for wideband O2 sensors since it gets too hot and burns them out early? At least that's what the Innovate forums indicate.

Most aftermarket exhausts have a bung much further down the exhaust specifically for the Wideband O2 sensor.

[NitroDann]

You dont use the wideband permanently to run the car, simply to tune it. however on an stockish n/a the header position is fine.

Dann

[Lokiel]

^
Sorry, thought you meant to leave it there permanently. Some tuners simply shove a wideband O2 sensor up the exhaust pipe which is not accurate enough.

[Sean]

Wow, all I can say is wow. A good 10-15hp improvement

I thought you subscribed to the theory that any ECU that can control the same parameters can make the same power?