NitroDann's Long Awaited Garage Thread

[NitroDann]

The smaller EFR's (sub 500whp) are a direct bolt onto a T2x setup except they have a 3" V band rear, which will just require a single cut and a single weld to fit this downpipe (the EFR is a little longer so it will go straight on easy.).

Everything else bolts up not just the turbo flanges including water and oil lines etc.

Yes the bracket was just made with what I had laying around cut up and welded, it will do for now.

Dann

[gslender]

Won't suck too much warm air from the radiator will it?

G

[NitroDann]

Well its not ideal but its probably not going to be noticeable at all even on a dyno. Even if the intake air temp is 350 kelvin instead of 300 kelvin once it hits the compressor at the compressors max flow rate it will end up at 500 kelvin odd and then the intercooler will do its job, the lovely thing about delta T is that even if the air into the radiator is 5% hotter coming out it will be less than 1% hotter.

Dann

[taminga16]

Hi Dann,
It looks beaut, If this is not what you were doing it could be jewellery.
Best.
Greg.

[16bit]

was gonna say the intake position just might make the intercooler work a little harder. if the intake is hitting ambient or there abouts 2/3 along the cooler it might just take till 3/4 along.

[NitroDann]

Thats what I think, the miata turbo guys have mentioned the bend on the intake pipe and suggested just putting the filter straight on the turbo but of the filters we had neither would fit in that position, on the dyno we can do runs with this and totally unfiltered without any intake and compare.

Dann

[NitroDann]

Here is the exhaust.

It has 2 braces and a V band.

Its tucked as high as I could get it, a flat floor and diffuser will fit with ease and clearance.









It also has an extra piece of SS rod on each of the hangers to make sure it never moves.

Dann

[tinsfci]

Nice work Dann, the only thing I would change is to extend the hangers further around the pipe to spread the stress. My race car has a tab at the rear similar to your gearbox mount and it has cracked out and taken part of the pipe with it. I don't have tig so I welded it with a stick welder I inherited from My grandfather

I'll soon need to do a whole new zorst for the race car to match the 3" dp I recently bought, and the plan is to do a similar system to this with a single muffler instead of the side pipe that is vulnerable on curbs. What's the go with a magnaflow for a turbo race car where noise is not so much of an issue... Biggest can that will fit or smallest can that will bring the noise down to an acceptable level?

[NitroDann]

I say just put a huge one on, if you can lose your arm in it and its straight through it wont affect flow more than 2 or 3 HP.

What you cannot see in that pic is that it isnt just a tab it has another piece welded on at 90* on the exhaust pipe side, so does the rear muffler brace.

People will be able to give an indication of how loud this is on the track soon enough to help you decide.

When you say extend the hangers you mean hammer them around the pipe?
So far so good with triangulated hangers.

Dann

[tinsfci]

Forming a hook by bashing it around something the same diameter as the pipe would be better, adding a circular doubler plate on the pipe (so the weld on the pipe has no "end") then welding the bracket onto the doubler plate would be better again but probably overkill.

If the current bracket is an "L" shape as it butts onto the pipe then the two ends are the most likely place it will crack from fatigue and heat due to the relatively sharp section of the weld. What ever you do, try to mechanically support the pipe as much as possible to make it easier for the weld, and try to make the radius of the weld as large as possible to avoid stress raisers.

My day job involves messing about with rail mounted mine equipment that can weigh up to 1500 tonnes, welding brackets directly to primary structure instead of a circular double plate is a crucifiction offence, the main offenders are sparkies!

[NitroDann]

Define circular double plate. I totally get bending the hanger into a curve. Need to work out a good way to do it because I use 12mm rod not 8mm like factory.

Dann

[NitroDann]

You know I used to only grind the bar curved so I could get a longer weld onto it but I've pulled enough aftermarket exhausts off now to see that doing that alone isn't good enough to last say 5 or more years every time, which is why I have moved to adding the second bar to triangulate it.

90 percent of custom jobs I've seen don't even grind the rod or use thicker rod, even those coming from well known places within this community.

Dann

[tinsfci]

Doubler plate= grab a 50mm hole saw and drill through the side of a piece of scrap pipe of the same diameter as the exhaust. The curved disc inside the hole saw is the douber plate.

Weld the plate onto the exhaust, there are now no sharp edges of welds directly on the constantly expanding and contracting exhaust. No sharp changes in weld profile means less chance of a crack forming as it will usually happen where there is a sharp edge or undercut, or porosity etc.

Weld bracket onto the doubler plate following similar rules of no sharp edges if you possibly can, again so you dont have a stress concentration point. If a crack does form on the doubler plate you have not compromised your exhaust and it will be easier to weld up.

I'll stress that I have never seen anyone bother to do this on an exhaust, but F* it. Why follow what every one else does!

Another way to do it would be to use an inch of off cut pipe and split it so you can wrap it around the exhaust, then weld the bracket to that. The more you spread the load, the less likely it will crack.

Now back to the man cave with you, I expect to see photos of a dead sexy exhaust hanger by morning

[NitroDann]

I'll do one for shits and gigs ok. Tomorrow if I get the car started and have a spare half hour.

Dann

[tinsfci]

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.