Overheating?

deviant · Postby **deviant** » Wed Jan 30, 2013 11:12 am

You can cover it in aluminium tape anywhere you think it is being exposed to heat.

davekmoore · Postby **davekmoore** » Wed Jan 30, 2013 5:09 pm

Thanks guys

davekmoore · Postby **davekmoore** » Tue Feb 05, 2013 1:05 pm

Apparently the car had a 210 degree thermostat in it. Now has a 180.

93_Clubman · Postby **93_Clubman** » Tue Feb 05, 2013 1:33 pm

davekmoore wrote:Apparently the car had a 210 degree thermostat in it. Now has a 180.

Ahhhhhhhhhhhh!

Postby **NitroDann** » Tue Feb 05, 2013 1:49 pm

Insta-fix?

Dann

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Tue Feb 05, 2013 1:52 pm

I'm going to guess that's Farenheit?

Because even a 180deg thermostat sounds stupidly high if it's Celcius.

davekmoore · Postby **davekmoore** » Tue Feb 05, 2013 2:00 pm

Dunno Dann. We'll see at Winton this weekend. Meanwhile I'll get some ducting done as well. Nothing like belt and braces.

Yes hks_kansei, it's Farenheit.

davekmoore · Postby **davekmoore** » Thu Feb 07, 2013 1:08 am

top duct.jpg

Quite pleased to have done this top ducty not pretty thingo without bloodshed. Thanks for the advice.

Also put the car on ramps and looked under and to the sides of the intercooler and radiator and oil cooler and think the factory undertray and side trays are quite good. Can't see any air leaks that I couldn't improve with some cleaning and some race tape and think the improvement might be only 5%, so meh! The oil cooler is between the intercooler and the rad but bearing in mind nearly all the intake air must go through the intercooler/oil cooler/radiator this might be ok?

deviant · Postby **deviant** » Thu Feb 07, 2013 11:00 am

Looks great Dave! It is functional and better than spending $100+ on some fully hektik bit of ally from Japan or USA to do the same job.

I love working with corflute, I made some slim door trims for my NB out of it and covered it in vinyl. You have inspired me to do the same as you have for my radiator panel thingy...mine just has race tape blocking the holes and some high density foam along the top of the radiator to block the gap between between radiator and the support panel.

davekmoore · Postby **davekmoore** » Thu Feb 07, 2013 11:12 am

deviant wrote:Looks great Dave! It is functional and better than spending $100+ on some fully hektik bit of ally from Japan or USA to do the same job.

I love working with corflute, I made some slim door trims for my NB out of it and covered it in vinyl. You have inspired me to do the same as you have for my radiator panel thingy...mine just has race tape blocking the holes and some high density foam along the top of the radiator to block the gap between between radiator and the support panel.

Blimey! I've never inspired anyone to do any DIY before!

davekmoore · Postby **davekmoore** » Thu Feb 07, 2013 2:50 pm

NitroDann wrote:Insta-fix?

Dann

Is it likely to be, Dann?

Postby **NitroDann** » Thu Feb 07, 2013 2:57 pm

The thing controlling temp has been changed from 99C to 82C.

The stock guage starts to go to the high end around 100c so yeah id imagine so.

Dann

adamvs · Postby **adamvs** » Thu Feb 14, 2013 1:41 pm

My understanding is the sender is pretty linear. The armature in the gauge has a big flat spot in it ( always wondered why my miata seemed to run so steady). There is a fix on miataforumz.com, http://www.miataforumz.com/how-40/how-linear-water-temp-gauge-245/. I haven't tried this yet, but it's on the list. basically a third of the calories of fuel get wasted in generating heat. So boost=more fuel=more heat. Bigger radiator if it's not already there. Ditching the A/C and wiring the two fans together.