GSlender's Track Beeotch!

[toppertee]

Why muck around with 1600 when you could fit a vvt?

[gslender]

Are the plans to rebore it or anything?

Cheers
Woz

It wasn't but open to ideas!

What's the general approach with sending out head or block/crank work? What would you ask for or get done?

G

[wozzah1975]

Are the plans to rebore it or anything?

Cheers
Woz

It wasn't but open to ideas!

What's the general approach with sending out head or block/crank work? What would you ask for or get done?

G

The first thing to do is dismantle and inspect keeping everything numbered and in order. The next step is to measure (or have someone measure) for wear and compare to the factory tolerances. The you will make a decision from there on whether the engine needs to be bored, crank ground, new pistons etc etc.

If it measures up ok, then a rering and rebearing would be fine. If you go down this road I wouldn't bother with balancing, the std balance on these engines with std components is fine IMO. I normal hone on the bores is fine. I would still use the ACL race bearings, but only use cast rings in a rering, moly items are very difficult to bed in on a rering only.
If it doesn't measure up ok you will need to look at new components. Depending on how much power you want and how far you want to go with it will be the decider. What I beleive Dann is refering to in regard to the plates etc for machining is what they call a torque plate. This is used when boring an engine to duplicate the cylinder head being fitted to the block, then the block is machined. This gives a better tolorance for bore sizing. For most normal mild engines it is not required, however on more serious builds it should be used, and the block should also be heated to duplicate running temperature.
If you are fitting new pistons, rods etc I would get the engine balanced. The whole rotating assy, and the pistons, rods etc.

Tell your engine machinist what you intend to do and they should base their advice to you on that.

Cheers
Woz

[mrpham]

I read good things about The Torque Team in Moorooka, they do all machining in house and know the B6 and BP quite well.

I've used Chilton Engineering plenty of times, recommend them as well. He does all the work for MX-5 Plus too.

[gslender]

I read good things about The Torque Team in Moorooka, they do all machining in house and know the B6 and BP quite well.

Thanks. I will give em a call and see what they recommend.

I'm actually happy to hand someone a block (with crank/pistons etc) and head and have them check, refit bearings/rings, redneck, clean or reseat valves and i will just reassemble.

Does that sound like an ok approach?

G

[gslender]

...time for an update!
http://rednels.com/2013/01/19/engine-removed/

Engine Removed
The engine in the new Track Beeotch was a little tired, having pushing the MX5 for nearly 300Ks it was oozing oil from both ends (never a nice thing) and losing water through a very noisy water-pump, but it pulled strong and didn’t blow any smoke. So I felt it would be a good start to the track adventure if I pulled the engine and replaced the bearings, new rings and give it a clean up with new gaskets and seals.

Popular advice is to remove both the engine and gearbox as a unit rather than cracking them apart and removing just the engine. I’d agree, after disconnecting all the accessories and wiring, it only took 1 hour to lift and angle the engine out of the bay. I think I spent more time disconnecting and preparing for the engine removal then I did actually taking it out.


Once out of the car, I was then able to disconnect the 5spd from the engine housing and lift the engine (in mostly long form) onto an engine stand where it will spend most of its time being refreshed. Now the journey begins as I clean and disassemble the engine into its components ready to be sent away for thorough cleaning, a shave and new special parts.

[mrpham]

Awesome

Let me know if you ever need a hand.

[gslender]

Update: http://rednels.com/2013/01/21/gearbox-like-new/

Gearbox like new!
After removing the gearbox and engine, I decided I would clean up the gearbox and boy did it clean up like new! I used my spray-jet attachment on the air compressor and some heavy strength degreaser – it cut through the grime and grease like a fat kid loves cake.

Really happy with the results!

[gslender]

Few Updates...

http://rednels.com/2013/01/23/torsen-insidetm/
Torsen Inside(tm)
A parcel arrived today! No more single wheel spin for me


http://rednels.com/2013/01/23/tear-down-has-begun/
Tear down has begun!
The task of stripping down the engine has begun.

It is a slow process, as I’m thoroughly cleaning and labeling each set of parts. All related bolts and nuts are then bagged with the parts and stored neatly in a storage bench.


So far the engine looks in good condition. Most parts don’t look as worn as they should be, so chances are the maintenance and treatment of the car was good.

The final step is to separate the head from the block, and then drop them off to an engineering shop to have them cleaned and checked. I’ll probably get the valves re-cut along with any shaving if required.

[gslender]

...and another update

http://rednels.com/2013/01/26/taking-my-head-off/
Taking my head off!
So progress has me up to the stage where my cams are out of the head and I’ve laid head bolts, and cam caps (and bolts) on a layout board. This will ensure I put the same bolts back into the same place, caps and associated bolts. I’m being a little O.C. about it all, but hey, makes for easy assembly!



At this stage I’ve got the head, intake manifold, fly wheel/clutch along with the sump baffle, pump and pickup all off and degreased.

Next stage for the head and manifold is to be dropped off at an engineering shop for checking and proper clean. I’ll also chat to them about a valve re-cut to ensure the seals are spot on!

[itrungs]

Oh wow, what a nice build.

I tend to use a piece of cardboard and poke holes through it to slot things into place so I don't forget where everything is meant to be, just incase someone knocks it over. Just a thought really. Goodluck with the build!

[gslender]

Long weekend update marathon....

http://rednels.com/2013/01/27/crank-out/
Crank out!
Whew! I’ve got all the main caps and rod caps off. The crank is out and it looks really good. No wear and nothing looks odd. With the crank out I’ve been able to push the pistons out through the top (or down as the block was inverted to lift out the crank). I’m actually thinking the crank could’ve stayed in as the wear is just not visible. End play was marginal and everything just looked in very good condition….boy these engines are so good!



Continuing my theme of being super organised, I created a main cap layout board and stored the pistons and rod caps in individual containers.
My Dad would be so pleased with all this!

[gslender]

Thought this post might interest a few...

http://rednels.com/2013/01/28/oil-pump-shimmy-shimmy/
Oil pump shimmy shimmy
I’ve read a few forum posts in the USA that suggest it is worth shimming the relief valve on the oil pump to produce more oil pressure for engines that will see track time. The stock pump produces 60 psi of pressure at around 3,000 rpm, but starts to drop off as RPMs increase. So the shimming can raise the pressure 10-15 psi to ensure the oil pressure is high when the engine is spending a fair amount of time at the red line!

Step one is to get the oil pump out and generally inspect it – mine’s been cleaned but still has plenty of grime in hard to get to places. I’ll try to overlook that.



Next step is to take an impact driver onto the seven (7) philips head screws ensuring you use a driver bit that won’t slip out. After several heavy hits, the screws will loosen.


Having removed the cover, you can inspect it for wear. Mine had a few slight wear marks and one odd scratch. I can only assume a tinny bit of metal must of gotten into the pump and marked it in that place – strange!?


After inspecting the drive gears, you can move onto the relief valve. You don’t actually have to remove the drive gear cover to shim the oil pump relief valve, but I figured I should at least inspect it before I continued.

You remove a split pin and carefully allow the spring and washer cap to release (don’t let it fly across the room). The piston is the last item, and again only removed to inspect it – and mine all looks nice and clean.


Before reassembly, you place one or more washers of similar diameter under the spring. This will increase the tension and raise the oil pressure. Each 1 mm washer will add around 5-7 psi of pressure. I’ve added 2x 1mm washers and should see the oil pressure rise to a max of 75psi.

In the pic below, you can see the split pin returned but yet to be bent back, and the new washers sitting at the top with the spring and existing cap installed.



I’m unhappy with the wear in the pump, and the fact it is coming out of an engine that has seen 275,000 klms. I will probably buy a new pump, and shim it as well.

[DanZig]

Not wasting any time are you? Good work, keep it up!

[gslender]

All parts loaded in the back of the Prado ready for the trip to the engineering shop!

So exciting!

G