Overheating?

davekmoore · Postby **davekmoore** » Tue Jan 01, 2013 7:47 pm

NitroDann wrote:The enthalpy of the system is only slightly increased by the factor of the amount of water that fits in that headers tank over the total water volume in the old system.

Its hard to believe that if your radiator couldnt remove all of the heat from the water before it can now due to slightly more water to heat soak.

Dann

That's what I thought, although I've never heard of the word "enthalpy". What about removing bubbles? If this is a way of removing air locks during use I'd be very happy with that.

davekmoore · Postby **davekmoore** » Tue Jan 01, 2013 8:29 pm

Lokiel wrote:
davekmoore wrote::
Also need as many pics as anyone likes of any effective ducting using the existing radiator inlet. Extra points available for anyone who can point me at ready made ducting.

This is what I plan on doing at some point: http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,25844.0.html

It's DIY so you're going to get your hands cut up and there will be plenty of swearing involved getting the fit right, particularly as you approach the final straight.

Start with cardboard templates and try and get them as close to final-fit as possible, then trace them onto aluminium.

Thanks Lokiel. This is really good information. The only issue is that my level of technical ability or patience is nil. Is there anyone out there who fancies making me one of these?

davekmoore · Postby **davekmoore** » Tue Jan 01, 2013 8:31 pm

timk wrote:What kind of oil cooler do you have and what oil temps are you seeing by the way?

Forgotten what size of oil cooler. It included a filter relocation which increased the amount of oil in the system. No way to know oil temps yet as the extra gauges haven't gone in.

deviant · Postby **deviant** » Wed Jan 02, 2013 12:13 am

davekmoore wrote:
Lokiel wrote:
davekmoore wrote::
Also need as many pics as anyone likes of any effective ducting using the existing radiator inlet. Extra points available for anyone who can point me at ready made ducting.

This is what I plan on doing at some point: http://www.mazda-speed.com/forum2/index.php/topic,25844.0.html

It's DIY so you're going to get your hands cut up and there will be plenty of swearing involved getting the fit right, particularly as you approach the final straight.

Start with cardboard templates and try and get them as close to final-fit as possible, then trace them onto aluminium.

Thanks Lokiel. This is really good information. The only issue is that my level of technical ability or patience is nil. Is there anyone out there who fancies making me one of these?

You can make this out of anything, I am useless with fabricating from sheet metal but it would be easy to make out of plastic (say an old house sale sign) which can be worked with a knife and fixed with cable ties.

Postby **NitroDann** » Wed Jan 02, 2013 9:59 am

enthalpy is the total heat energy in a system.

Dann

vrmmmpshhh · Postby **vrmmmpshhh** » Wed Jan 02, 2013 10:38 am

davekmoore wrote:
NitroDann wrote:The enthalpy of the system is only slightly increased by the factor of the amount of water that fits in that headers tank over the total water volume in the old system.

Its hard to believe that if your radiator couldnt remove all of the heat from the water before it can now due to slightly more water to heat soak.

Dann

That's what I thought, although I've never heard of the word "enthalpy". What about removing bubbles? If this is a way of removing air locks during use I'd be very happy with that.

the header tank (air seperation tank) posted is the best way of removing air bubbles from the system. the FD has a factory AST but it is plastic and gets brittle so we all change them to the metal ones.

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Wed Jan 02, 2013 1:19 pm

Some of this thread has been about genuine heating problems when running and some has been about noises after the car has stopped. You need to be careful about confusing bubbles in the coolant with afterboil. Afterboil is "In an automotive engine, coolant boiling after the engine has stopped because of the inability of the engine at rest to dissipate excess heat." Hence the boiling noises you often hear when you switch off after a good run. No amount of changes to piping, radiators, thermostats, pumps or anything will stop coolant from boiling when it's at rest against exhaust ports that were close to red hot shortly before the engine was switched off.

davekmoore · Postby **davekmoore** » Tue Jan 29, 2013 12:06 am

Don't panic. This is not a post about Shhhkodas. But as well as the MX5 which is the subject of this post I also have a lightly modded Superb Tdi (bigger, better built, higher spec version of VW Passat).

I normally remove all badges from my cars but The Boss got the Superb a vRS badge for Christmas even though the only Skoda vRS in Oz is the Octavia (aka Golf Gti).

So after a month of looking at the job I finally worked out that removing the panel held on by 4 of these BRILLIANT fasteners would get me to the grille so I could install the badge.

003.JPG

After removing that panel (creating the gap on the right below) I realised that it and its twin on the left are the top part of the ducting suggested by several people in this thread (thanks). The Skoda also has side and bottom ducting not visible in the pic. Just as on my MX5 the thing that looked like a radiator to me in the pic below is actually the intercooler and, just like on the MX5, the radiator is directly behind it, so I guess this is why Skoda did the ducting, and why I should do the same on the MX5.

001.JPG

Finally, as further proof for those who have helpfully suggested there is no need for more intake area on the MX5, note that in the pic below, two thirds of the top grille (everything above the vRS badge) is blanked off so the actual intake area is quite small.

002.JPG

Yes, I have road tested the badge. Feels like 30 extra kw.

StuwieP · Postby **StuwieP** » Tue Jan 29, 2013 11:33 am

how will you go about making the ducting? alu sheet bent/cut to suit I/C piping? Fibreglass?

davekmoore · Postby **davekmoore** » Tue Jan 29, 2013 12:52 pm

StuwieP wrote:how will you go about making the ducting? alu sheet bent/cut to suit I/C piping? Fibreglass?

Prototype in corflute, then bent alu sheet I reckon, using those clever fasteners where possible. Stick with corflute if it works ok. Knowing my mechanical skills there's a chance of duct tape being involved as well.