Electrical guys - is this safe?

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Wed Sep 19, 2012 5:07 pm

Another thing.

How would I test for power in the fusebox?

I'm intending to get the 12v constant from the unused ABS port on the fusebox (the car doesn't have ABS)
The fuse I pulled out was rated to 20amps, the lights will draw 10amps, and I've fused all my wire with 15amps. Presumably it's safe.

Anyway, how would I test if the fuse port is a 12v constant?

Would I simply remove the fuse, and put the red multimetre prong on one side of the fuse plug, and the black on the other?

I would have thought that would be the way to test, but now I'm concerned since the smoking incident with the dimmer switch.

Mr Morlock · Postby **Mr Morlock** » Wed Sep 19, 2012 5:32 pm

the usual way to test for power is either a test light or multi meter. One probe to the terminal to be tested and the other to earth with the test light or multi meter in between . HKS -smoking wire ie a short is not nice- the mulitmeter might have been set incorrectly but I am not certain. I would suggest buy a book on auto electrics- I can suggest a title- libraries have them- or borrow one or talk to an auto elec or get them to finish it off. What item is missing- you mentioned a bulbholder?

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Wed Sep 19, 2012 5:57 pm

The missing part is just the bit from the back of the foglight where the globe plugs into.

When I bought the lights one was missing, I just need to track down a replacement from a wrecker.

taminga16 · Postby **taminga16** » Wed Sep 19, 2012 5:59 pm

Hi Nic,
I am hoping to be at the Caf'e tomorrow night, and will bring the required stuff.
Best.
Greg.

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Wed Sep 19, 2012 6:05 pm

Perfect.
I intend to be there.

As I said though, I've got the lot working, when I tested the parking lamp trigger the relay clicked on wonderfully, it's now just a matter of finding the time to run the wires into the cabin neatly.

taminga16 · Postby **taminga16** » Wed Sep 19, 2012 6:14 pm

Nic,
Just checked my box of stuff and the bulb holder that I have will not suit your purpose.
Greg.

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Wed Sep 19, 2012 6:22 pm

Damn.
Oh well.

Luckily it seems Mazda used these kind of lights on a few cars (MX5, MPV, Tribute, and I think early Mazda6) So I should be able to find one.

At a wreckers I can also cut off the plugs to make it easier to install

taminga16 · Postby **taminga16** » Wed Sep 19, 2012 6:48 pm

Nic,
Will we need a soldering iron?
Greg.

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Wed Sep 19, 2012 8:18 pm

Shouldn't need one.

I'll just bring the crimper.

Mr Morlock · Postby **Mr Morlock** » Wed Sep 19, 2012 9:41 pm

normally a bulb fits into a bulbholder ie a that is metal aperture into which the bulb is inserted and it is fixed to the reflector. The bulb is normally retained in the bulb holder or aperture by a spring / wire form. The loom is connected to the bulb with an electrical connector which holds the wire with its terminal(s).

taminga16 · Postby **taminga16** » Thu Sep 20, 2012 10:30 am

Mr Morlock wrote:normally a bulb fits into a bulbholder ie a that is metal aperture into which the bulb is inserted and it is fixed to the reflector. The bulb is normally retained in the bulb holder or aperture by a spring / wire form. The loom is connected to the bulb with an electrical connector which holds the wire with its terminal(s).

Might I be correct Mr M, that you think that we intend soldering the bulb into the loom and then 'Gerry' fitting it to the lamp body?, Heck, we could use Blue Tac and conductive Duct Tape.
Greg.
Knowledge offered up badly is not advice.

Mr Morlock · Postby **Mr Morlock** » Thu Sep 20, 2012 9:33 pm

taminga is not correct-I have not the foggiest how he arrived at such a weird conclusion. My point was merely to identify some of the components which comprise a lamp and no advice was offered bad or otherwise.