Solution to overheating tyres and brakes

[manga_blue]

Now I know why Craig was finding it a handful.

Maybe try asking around the Vic club for 225/50R15 ex Porsche 944 Challenge tyres. We know they can handle the power.

[Lokiel]

With your car's power, you should definitely NOT be using GreenStuff pads on the track, I wouldn't use them on the street either. This is EBC's own recommendation for pad use:

[davekmoore]

With your car's power, you should definitely NOT be using GreenStuff pads on the track, I wouldn't use them on the street either.

Thanks Lokiel.

That's the last time the car goes to my local spannerman, even if he reckons he got advice from a race brake specialist, as the combo of RDA and EBC was worse than the worn out stock brakes. All future work will be going direct to specialists. It might cost a bit more in the short term but it would avoid having the front pads completely expire 10 metres into the 100 metre braking zone at the end of the straight at Sandown last Sunday. This was not fun - but did teach me how much quicker I could get round turn 1 if I was brave enough! A proper driver with big front brakes and more skill than me brakes at 50 metres by the way. Respect.

[jerrah]

I'm using 205/50/15 Kumho KU36 on 15x7 rims and the car feels undertyred for acceleration at 160kw, fine for cornering and braking. I would probably go the 225/45/15 at your power level and R compound if you can afford it. Some of my better times was on a N/A NA6 on R888's and some sway bars.

I'm using Hawk HP+ on stock NB8 discs (smaller than yours) brakes feel plenty powerful all the time, a little fade at the end of a session. Brake heat will depend on how much you use them obviously so if you get better cornering traction it might take the load off your brakes?

I'm not the fastest in our QLD sessions but I do 'ok' when the car is running.

EDIT: Or turn down the boost to a level that matches your brakes and tyres to practice the corners?

[davekmoore]

EDIT: Or turn down the boost to a level that matches your brakes and tyres to practice the corners?

Others will disagree but I agree this could be a good idea.

So I'll be needing someone in Bendigo who can show me how to play around with the Haltech.

[Hjt]

Electronic boost gauge. If you want the power turn it up, if you want it less for better overall track results leave it lower..

Your unbuilt engine will also love you in the long run!

[93_Clubman]

EDIT: Or turn down the boost to a level that matches your brakes and tyres to practice the corners?

Others will disagree but I agree this could be a good idea.

So I'll be needing someone in Bendigo who can show me how to play around with the Haltech.

Dave, from memory your Haltech contained two maps -you just need to switch between them:
viewtopic.php?f=81&t=37122&p=481963&hilit=have+another+map+plan+use+track#p481963

[davekmoore]

Yes, but I am completely non-technical so need a Haltech tuner.

[davekmoore]

Yes, but I am completely non-technical so need a Haltech tuner.

........ or for someone to chime in to tell me how to get hold of software for an older Interceptor then how to use it to swap between the maps (which are .img files, and seem to be different from what the newer Haltech software is expecting). Please.

[93_Clubman]

Not particularly familiar with Haltech, but the bottom of this page has Interceptor Software V1.08: http://www.haltech.com/index.php/downlo ... e-firmware

The following page has software for previous Haltech products by model designation, but 'interceptor' isn't specifically mentioned: http://www.haltech.com/index.php/downlo ... s-products

Usually ECU management software is backward compatible to recognise old file types, so may be you can choose file type from within the ECU management software to recognise .img.

If not, then perhaps updating the ECU firmware will allow it to use the new file type which is then recognised by the ECU management software. However, if this is the case presumably you'd also need a way of converting the .img file to the new file type in the first instance.

[ivan]

Not sure if anyone has recommended these before, but I'm using Advan Neovas and love them. They are somewhere between a street tyre and r-spec, similar to the KU36. I have them in 205x50x15 on a 7.5in rim. They last for ever on the track, unlike the Adrenalins i had before that which would blow chunks off them at the track. I've had them for about 2 years and done probably 15 track days in them and they still have a few days left in them I think. I also don't do cool down laps until the end of the session and still I dont have overheating problems. In an NA6 with mostly just suspension mods and NB front brakes these tyres can get me around Wakefield in 1.16.19 and still room to go faster. They were also my daily tyres too....just pump the tyres back up after track. They are a bit noisier than street tyres, but well worth it.

[Guran]

Good suggestion Ivan. I didn't realise AD08s were available in 15". Yokohama's Aussie website only lists 17" to 19" sizes. But now I see that it's just an Aussie thing, and AD08s are even available in some countries (like the Philippines) as 185/60R14. Now there's an interesting alternative for those who like using Dunlop Star Specs and Kumho KU36s. Although it's worth noting that the MX-5 Club of Victoria & Tasmania has classifed AD08s as an "R compound" tyre, which means they are not eligible for use in the standard or clubman classes. Not that this would be an issue for Dave.

[davekmoore]

Good suggestion Ivan. I didn't realise AD08s were available in 15". Yokohama's Aussie website only lists 17" to 19" sizes. But now I see that it's just an Aussie thing, and AD08s are even available in some countries (like the Philippines) as 185/60R14. Now there's an interesting alternative for those who like using Dunlop Star Specs and Kumho KU36s. Although it's worth noting that the MX-5 Club of Victoria & Tasmania has classifed AD08s as an "R compound" tyre, which means they are not eligible for use in the standard or clubman classes. Not that this would be an issue for Dave.

Still planning to go 15s. Will turn down the boost first and get better at cornering rather than going fast in a straight line (because anyone can do that, eh?). Then use the 17 inch Yokos until worn out. I reckon they might get quicker the more worn out they get? Then use up the set of 17 inch semi-slicks I've got coming. Then sell all the 17s and go 15.

[timk]

You could possibly unplug the boost solenoid, make sure it passes air to the gate while unplugged though. Might be easier than trying to mess about with the Haltech.

[ivan]

Good suggestion Ivan. I didn't realise AD08s were available in 15". Yokohama's Aussie website only lists 17" to 19" sizes. But now I see that it's just an Aussie thing, and AD08s are even available in some countries (like the Philippines) as 185/60R14. Now there's an interesting alternative for those who like using Dunlop Star Specs and Kumho KU36s. Although it's worth noting that the MX-5 Club of Victoria & Tasmania has classifed AD08s as an "R compound" tyre, which means they are not eligible for use in the standard or clubman classes. Not that this would be an issue for Dave.

Probably best just to give them a call, they might not have updated their website. I got mine from Yokohama in Australia. A mate got some in the same size only 6 months ago too.