?yellow?speed?coilovers?

[project.r.racing]

I currently run YSRs on one of my cars. They are the fifth different coilover I have owned. All coilovers have their pros and cons. Just gotta do your research and fine what is best for you and what you need them to do.

Fair enough so which ups and downs do the yellow speeds have?

The good for me, and on the vehicle (fwd f+r macpherson strut)they are on:- the shock and spring combo match each other perfectly. the shock must have nice think oil, cos it is semi firm on soft settings. (i prefer a track style suspension versus a street style, and could be a negative to some owners).

The bad:- Fitment issues that have cost me nearly $400 to rectify. Doubt this effects MX5s as I never heard one MX5 owner complain about fitment issues.

[NitroDann]

think

Most confusing use of this word ever. Lol

Dann

[project.r.racing]

Huh? I'm blonde!

[Wivvix]

I can give you an opinion on the financial security of investing in Australian real estate. It won't help you much if you're particularly interested in building low-rise accommodation to re-house current FIFO workers in a speculative regional boom town.

At $1000, YSR's represent good value for money in the Australian market, because frankly, you'll struggle to put good quality but basic, new shocks and springs into an mx5 here for under $1000.
Are they good shocks? That depends very much so on what you're using them for.
For the street you'd get a much better ride and quality of shock going with Bilstein's. For the track you'd be better off with BC BR's in my opinion.
There's no such thing as a shock/spring combo or coilover which is perfect for the road and fierce on the track; be sure you don't get sold that snake oil.

There are some near-exceptions to the rule, which carry hefty price tags and which are genuinely impressive engineering. Ohlins DFV are probably the cheapest you'll find which fall into this category, and they start at about $2800.

My advice is to work out what you want and go from there. Once you have defined what a suspension system needs to do, it is much easier to select parts to achieve that.
Coilovers do not circumvent this process. Some people take a gamble and are happy with the outcome, others are not. Personally I'm not much of a gambling man, so I did research and went through the process.

[Apu]

Good analogy and well put.

To add to that, the Tein Super Streets on my MX5 are great on the street and feel like stock. However, on the track I have to pretty much max them out. So if I really wanted them to be firmer...well, there isn't much adjustment left.

[Dweezle]

For the track you'd be better off with BC BR's in my opinion.

Can I ask what exactly sways you in the BC direction?
I am tossing up between the YSR and BC's.

YSR $950
BC BR $1299

Pretty large savings to be had but what makes the BC's better ?

[NitroDann]

Lots of well written clever stuff in NitroDann's opinion.

Dann

[Magpie]

Here is a post I made in another thread on BC ER's

I have the BC Racing ER's with the advertised spring rates (10F 8R). I used this review to make my decision to purchase http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gd-suspension-handling-stiffening/168885-bc-racing-er-series-coilover-comprehensive-review.html.

The review concludes with "Due to the funky rebound curve and poor left-to-right matching I would not recommend these for someone who does serious competitive racing." and whilst I do not do serious competitive racing I would have to agree with the funky rebound curve conclusion as I still have not found a good combination for the street and on the track.

At the moment I still have them set for the track (Bump: 25/10 Rebound: 20/18) and putting up with the harsh ride. Note: I'm not home all that much to drive it on the road and just too lazy to change the settings. On the road I have tried Bump: 15/10 Rebound: 15/10 and personally I thought that this was a bit soft. The difference between the track and street that I have tried (at least to me) suggests that the clicks are exponential and not progressive. I'm intending to experiment with the settings this time home as i will be driving out to Morgan Park so will have the opportunity to have a play.

Notwithstanding I’m happy with my purchase, however when they are due to be replaced I may look at Fatcat Motorsport for my next purchase (depending on the AUD).

[Apu]

For the track you'd be better off with BC BR's in my opinion.

Can I ask what exactly sways you in the BC direction?
I am tossing up between the YSR and BC's.

YSR $950
BC BR $1299

Pretty large savings to be had but what makes the BC's better ?

Mark

Might be interesting to take a ride in a couple cars with YSRs and BCs. Anyone in Sydney with BCs?

Bryan

[aviper4u]

hey lots of good info from what seems to be knowledgeable people though from i can gather if you want the best of both worlds IE; road/track you gotta spend 3K+?

And every keeps asking depends what you want, BUT i know i want suspension to get rid of rear wheel gap, be good enough on the road and better than stock on the track.......... but as a layman do not know how to translate this into suspension technical specifications therefore this thread:)

thanks for the input so far though

[Lokiel]

Here is a post I made in another thread on BC ER's

I have the BC Racing ER's with the advertised spring rates (10F 8R). I used this review to make my decision to purchase http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gd-suspension-handling-stiffening/168885-bc-racing-er-series-coilover-comprehensive-review.html.

The review concludes with "Due to the funky rebound curve and poor left-to-right matching I would not recommend these for someone who does serious competitive racing." and whilst I do not do serious competitive racing I would have to agree with the funky rebound curve conclusion as I still have not found a good combination for the street and on the track.

At the moment I still have them set for the track (Bump: 25/10 Rebound: 20/18) and putting up with the harsh ride. Note: I'm not home all that much to drive it on the road and just too lazy to change the settings. On the road I have tried Bump: 15/10 Rebound: 15/10 and personally I thought that this was a bit soft. The difference between the track and street that I have tried (at least to me) suggests that the clicks are exponential and not progressive. I'm intending to experiment with the settings this time home as i will be driving out to Morgan Park so will have the opportunity to have a play.

Notwithstanding I’m happy with my purchase, however when they are due to be replaced I may look at Fatcat Motorsport for my next purchase (depending on the AUD).

FYI:

The 10kg Front and 8kg Rear spring rates are more common in the US than in Australia.

In Australia, it's more typical to have lighter springs, such as 8kg Front and 6kg Rear.

WHY? Because roads in the US are better than over here so they can get away with stiffer spring rates for DD.

Also:

For good handling, Flyin Miata's Keith Tanner recommends a Front:Rear ratio of 3:2 (9kg Front : 6Kg Rear would be ideal)

For a smooth DD ride, the Front:Rear spring ratio should be closer together (eg. Tein SuperStreets are 7kg:6kg).

8kg:6kg is a good compromise for a track+DD car.

[Apu]

hey lots of good info from what seems to be knowledgeable people though from i can gather if you want the best of both worlds IE; road/track you gotta spend 3K+?

And every keeps asking depends what you want, BUT i know i want suspension to get rid of rear wheel gap, be good enough on the road and better than stock on the track.......... but as a layman do not know how to translate this into suspension technical specifications therefore this thread:)

thanks for the input so far though

Well, if you want the best compromise, you have to spend more. So the question becomes "what is your budget / what are you prepared to spend".

The reason I'm going to YSR is that I haven't heard / dont recall anyone being unhappy with them apart from the earlier sets lacking sufficient height adjustment which I believe has been addressed.

If you are prepared to pay a fair whack for coilovers, then I'd go for Tein SS or Bilsteins for DD duties and "better than stock on track".

If you want the best then go for Ohlins or Eibach.

If you want the cheapest option to just clear the wheel arch gap and get better than stock, the just go for a set of springs.

[sailaholic]

Good breakdown apu!

I think Patrick bramston had ysr in his school car and removed them due to being too stiff. Dann should know he did the work.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

[aviper4u]

Well, if you want the best compromise, you have to spend more. So the question becomes "what is your budget / what are you prepared to spend".

budget is 1K ish so i guess will just get the yellow speeds and hopefully will be fine, also ill try and show up at a club run and get a feel of different ones?

[Apu]

Well, for $1K I think you need someone to offer a ride in a BC / YSR equipped car. Best you arrange that rather than just show up at a club drive and hope you find someone with that setup and get a ride. Usually there isn't time for joyrides unfortunately.