mrpham's summer build

[Magpie]

Thanks as I'm trying to find out how much clearance there is between the ITB and anything else in the engine bay. I have received the following from Competition Systems "... a Pipercross airbox that is only 78mm deep. When combined with a 50mm backing plate that gives a total height of just under 130mm from the TB face. We also have a flat backing plate which makes it only the 78mm from the TB face. However, the stock length injectors may not fit. "

[mrpham]

Love your work Mr Pham! Interesting comment re soldering your connections. I worked with a RAAF tech on rewiring my Alfasud years ago, and he insisted on using military Canon connectors (13 way and 26 way sealed alloy units) with crimped connections - according to him the Hercules and choppers he worked on were all crimped wiring to withstand heat and vibration. We used military 12v circuit breakers instead of fuses and also used their wire labeling system to label every wire in the loom, so it was a piece of cake to trace faults (not that we had any after the re-wire. I love the circuit breakers - I still have some in my collection for the next re-wire. Really wish I'd kept that car....

I did a bit of reading before I started and this topic is always up for debate, but at the end of the day I don't think my car will be any extreme conditions to really worry about whether to crimp or solder. I think either methods, if done correctly, will be fine. I will be crimping all my engine bay connectors and ECU pins simply because it's much faster than soldering, picked up an awesome crimping tool too

Have been following the build both here and on the blog for some time now, top quality work!

Charlie threw some stickers my way at the Sydney meet on Saturday. Haven't grabbed anything from you yet but given the coolness of the logo, I'm willing to rep a sticker anyway. Keep it up man.

Thanks mate!

What sort of air box are you looking at for your ITB's or are you going just filter socks?

No airbox from the get-go, but might work on something later down the track. Could be usefull if I ever decide to go FI

Thanks as I'm trying to find out how much clearance there is between the ITB and anything else in the engine bay. I have received the following from Competition Systems "... a Pipercross airbox that is only 78mm deep. When combined with a 50mm backing plate that gives a total height of just under 130mm from the TB face. We also have a flat backing plate which makes it only the 78mm from the TB face. However, the stock length injectors may not fit. "

My velocity stacks are 75mm from the face of the throttle bodies, and I already have to relocate the brake prop valve to give enough clearance to not disturb airflow to cylinder no. 4.

[mrpham]

More Parts & No Progress - http://omgpham.com/more-parts-no-progress

Blehhh not much progress lately, BUT I have acquired some more bits for the build. Also been talking with a few guys who are also doing the same ITBs and we've found a few more issues with the T3 manifold... The issue is that the TPS is located towards the firewall and hits against the clutch master hard-line. This is not an issue for all the US guys who have the clutch master on the other side of the engine bay (LHD).


So that's the problem... there are possibly two ways to get around this.


So this is a solution that I'm going to test out, it involves taking 12mm off the end and machining the surface flat. So now I can use a banjo fitting that will let me clear the TPS.


The other solution is to use a braided hose like above, not sure if it'll clear the TPS though. Will figure it out when everything else goes into the car.

When I installed my new KG Works cluster I forgot to mention that my gauge hood also cracked. Was a pain in the ass but I was able to find a brand new genuine replacement . Apparently it was the last one in Australia too! Mazda have more on back order I believe.


So it looks amazing! It does't have the shiny finish like my old one but has a more smooth matte look. Will install this later on when I get a new dash to replace my cracked one.

The next part I found is a duct that is used in cars that don't have air-conditioning from factory. Since I'm removing my AC this part is perfect so that I can remove the ENTIRE AC system and still have functional air/heater.


Wasn't able to get a brand new one but Richard at MX-5 Plus was able to hook me up with this used part. Would prefer a new one but this is pretty decent.

[zoomzoom]

That duct looks familiar ;-)

[RedMX]

I <3 this build soo much, it's the little details that make the car.

& I bet ya cant wait for the ITB's

[mrpham]

That duct looks familiar ;-)

lol! yeah the only one Richard has left

I <3 this build soo much, it's the little details that make the car.

& I bet ya cant wait for the ITB's

Thanks mate! And yeah I can't wait, I'm trying to stay cool and be patient haha

[mrpham]

G-String Bikini Top - http://omgpham.com/g-string-bikini-top

I've been drooling over Project-G's bikini top ever since I bought my MX-5, was never sure how it would look in person with my tall-boy roll bar so I never ordered it. But I recently found an awesome deal that I couldn't pass up, I'm now in possession of a Project-G bikini top!

It's a black top with red-stitching and also came with a carry bag. I've sourced a front bow locally for little money so pretty happy overall =)


w000000000000!!!



Some extra goodies that came with the bikini top. Always love stickers and free lollies


The bikini top shown with the straps, center brace and carry bag.


Hopefully I'll look just as cool


I also picked up some extra tools to make my life easier when I do my braided fuel lines.
Just some aluminium spanners so the nice fittings don't get scratched and a hose cutter.

[mrpham]

ITB Build Part - http://omgpham.com/itb-build-part-1

Started pulling apart my car today, the head is being removed so I can get that ported. The AC, all wiring, intake, strut brace and fuse box will be removed to make way for my custom tucked wiring harness.

I was planning to port it myself but have decided to send it down to Warren Heath Performance down in Melbourne. The head will received an extensive porting job as well as larger oversized valves, stronger valve springs and re-shimmed solid lifters. The camshaft going in will be 280degree duration and 10.5mm lift.

Didn't get too much done today but photos below.


The operating table where most of the work will be done.



Bonnet off, radiator out and headers moved aside.



Valve cover off to remove the head, full port job on the way with massive cams going in.



The AC condenser removed and a pile of parts that won't be going back in.


That's all for today, covered up and put to bed.

[PaulF]

The camshaft going in will be 280degree duration and 10.5mm lift.

Them's some serious cams.

[mrpham]

The camshaft going in will be 280degree duration and 10.5mm lift.

Them's some serious cams.

It's what wozzah recommended, I would hate to get them and regret not going larger profiles But at the same time I'm limited by my bottom end not being built high comp. Will build bottom end later on though, whether it be high comp or low comp depending if I want to stay NA or go FI.

[MxCase]

Good work Mr Pham! I'll be watching this thread with interest mate, should be great when its all put vack together, minus a few parts!
Good to meet you the other day too.

[mrpham]

Good work Mr Pham! I'll be watching this thread with interest mate, should be great when its all put vack together, minus a few parts!
Good to meet you the other day too.

Nice meeting you too mate! Let us know when you're working on the MX next, can give a hand if you like.

[mrpham]

ITB Build Part 2 - http://omgpham.com/itb-build-part-2

Some more progress today

Had a friend come over to help strip out the interior since my cracked dash and ripped carpet will be getting replaced. Also makes it easier to get out the old wiring harness. Enjoy the madness below, sorry for the lack of photos.


Seats and center console out.


Steering column dropped and dash completely out.


Everything nearly out, just need some more free time to get the wiring harness out.

[mrpham]

ITB Build Part 3 - http://omgpham.com/itb-build-part-3

Made little progress so not a huge update, continued removing the old wiring harness and attempting to clean up the engine bay.


Where I was at since last update and now the wiring is out.



Looks so bare with so much stuff taken out.



The new wiring slowly going in, new battery/power wires going in too.

[mrpham]

ITB Build Part 4 - http://omgpham.com/itb-build-part-4

Bllleerrrrrrrrrrghhhhhhhhhh... Slow progress lately, held up by the wiring and have to sort a few parts sourcing issues.

I was planning to run the headlight wiring outside of the engine bay and under the guards, but at the last minuted I started to ditch the idea. Decided to keep the wiring in the engine bay and just neaten it up. I think it's a bit more practical and doesn't look too bad either.


The front bar has to be removed so that the guards could come out. I ended up not needing to remove the front guards, but this gave me a good opportunity to clean out all the dirt/gravel stuck behind there.


How the headlight wiring looked after neatening it up.


Next up I decided to freshen up the old rusty brake booster by sanding it down and a fresh coat of satin black paint.



Looks damn good back in the engine bay

I'm also getting all the old nuts/bolts cleaned up and zinc plated. At this point of the build I may as well take the opportunity to make sure no rusted hardware is returned to the car.


A whole buckets worth, can't wait to get them back all clean.