Haltech Platinum 1000 ECU

[Sean]

Solid increase across the board

Despite what others will tell you, I also reckon that's a solid improvement for the money, plus it's a mod you'll be able to keep if you decide to change other stuff down the track.

No wonder you're stoaked

[Hjt]

Ok, Here is the end result for anyone that is interested.
This was using Deatchwerks 600cc injectors (Thanks Vic, Champion) and the target was 160rwkw.
Boost is 12psi and we couldn’t go anymore without upgrading to a larger fuel pump. Another $200.00 but I will stick with this for now. He did say though if I am going to track it, to upgrade the pump before I do.
Installed by Colin at Ricol after CT recommendations and I couldn’t be happier.
The car is transformed, perfectly smooth and scary fast. For me anyway. He did a great job.
Standard was 121rwkw as I had taken off the T-Piece mod about 6 months ago. I got him to do a before and after run for comparison.
Total was around $2400.00 for the ECU, loom, and fit and tune.

I have been waiting for your results mate! I'm glad your happy. Mind if I meet up with you some day and test it out, i'm in a position now to copy your approach

[Okibi]

Looks good CT's advice and experience is sorely missed on the forum.

[BadBong]

Looks great Richard.

Any issues with the day to day stuff like start up, idling in traffic and general fuel efficiency?...

[bear2230]

Looks great Richard.

Any issues with the day to day stuff like start up, idling in traffic and general fuel efficiency?...

No issues with anything. Start up is better than before straight to about 1300 rpm and stays there perfectly then drops to about 900 rpm. No rev dipping at all, its solid as a rock the tacho doesn’t move.
Fuel efficiency is one of the reasons I did it and I will get back to you after I’ve done a couple of tanks. I’m expecting quite an improvement from the 380-400km/tank I get now.

Heyden, your welcome any time for a test run. When its dry though.

Richard.

[BadBong]

LOL... And confine him to a track too ;)

If fuel efficiency is significant then I might pull my wallet out...

[Tristan_ACT]

Hi Richard

Sorry to dig up this thread more than 6 months later. I just wanted to ask is the car still running as well and as smoothly 8ish months later.

I was initially going to go an adaptronic ecu, however after some research the platinum 1000 is looking the one for me. I'm not much into tinkering, and the haltech seems to me like it's set and forget. I was reading it also could be set to auto tune with AFR's on the fly etc. When I was looking at adaptronic I was told it is possible I'd have to get a retune every 6 or so months, or from hot to cold.

Has it needed to be re-tuned since the initial tune? Is it still going just as well?

Oh and lastly, did it help with the fuel efficiency?

Thanks in advance.

[Nevyn72]

*Cough*

Sorry to dig up this thread more than a year and 6 months later. I just wanted to ask is the car still running as well and as smoothly a year and 8ish months later.

I'd also be interested to hear as my (most) local tuner seems to prefer Haltech.

[Tristan_ACT]

*Cough*

Sorry to dig up this thread more than a year and 6 months later. I just wanted to ask is the car still running as well and as smoothly a year and 8ish months later.

I'd also be interested to hear as my (most) local tuner seems to prefer Haltech.

HAHAHAHA whoops!

[Lokiel]

*Cough*

Sorry to dig up this thread more than a year and 6 months later. I just wanted to ask is the car still running as well and as smoothly a year and 8ish months later.

I'd also be interested to hear as my (most) local tuner seems to prefer Haltech.

If the tuner has a good reputation then the rule of thumb is to "Use whatever ECU the tuner is most proficient with." - this is even more applicable if you don't intend to do any tweaking yourself.

[sailaholic]

Hi Richard

Sorry to dig up this thread more than 6 months later. I just wanted to ask is the car still running as well and as smoothly 8ish months later.

I was initially going to go an adaptronic ecu, however after some research the platinum 1000 is looking the one for me. I'm not much into tinkering, and the haltech seems to me like it's set and forget. I was reading it also could be set to auto tune with AFR's on the fly etc. When I was looking at adaptronic I was told it is possible I'd have to get a retune every 6 or so months, or from hot to cold.

Has it needed to be re-tuned since the initial tune? Is it still going just as well?

Oh and lastly, did it help with the fuel efficiency?

Thanks in advance.

You've been misinformed about adaptronics. They will also auto tune and shouldn't need any regular retuning if the tuner knows how to set up cold starts etc properly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bear2230]

Hi Richard

Sorry to dig up this thread more than 6 months later. I just wanted to ask is the car still running as well and as smoothly 8ish months later.

I was initially going to go an adaptronic ecu, however after some research the platinum 1000 is looking the one for me. I'm not much into tinkering, and the haltech seems to me like it's set and forget. I was reading it also could be set to auto tune with AFR's on the fly etc. When I was looking at adaptronic I was told it is possible I'd have to get a retune every 6 or so months, or from hot to cold.

Has it needed to be re-tuned since the initial tune? Is it still going just as well?

Oh and lastly, did it help with the fuel efficiency?

Thanks in advance.

Hi Tristan,

Haltech is running like a dream no problems at all. Its certainly not as good as the factory ecu tune for idle and voltage drop but its at 15psi now and AFR is perfect which is the main concern after blowing the last engine.
My only advice would be to get the PS2000 if your car is a daily like mine. The extra inputs are needed for the idle dip when you turn the lights on and the Air con is running. If you have a factory or not to serious stereo you probably can just use the PS1000 but I'm driving 1600 watts so that gives me a little extra load.
I have fine tuned my Idle and voltage drop to just about perfect now which was quite a bit of fun but did take about 20 hours worth of fiddling with the settings on the ECU Manager.
On the big turbo forum Adaptronic is very popular for NB8B onwards with very little issues and Haltech doesn't even get a mention.
I'm sure either would be good but the main thing has been said over and over. Go with what your tuner knows best.
If he says Motec go motec. Vipec go vipec ect,ect

More importantly fuel economy is in the shitter. I'm getting around 300 km per tank but its a whole lotta fun. On a run down to Kiama last week it got around 450 for a tank but double demerits will do that.

Richard.

[Tristan_ACT]

Firstly thanks for everyone for replying a good year and a half on, much appreciated.

You've been misinformed about adaptronics. They will also auto tune and shouldn't need any regular retuning if the tuner knows how to set up cold starts etc properly.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmm that's interesting, thanks for the feedback as I'd been trying to verify. Maybe the tuner up in Sydney was just trying to keep the door open to selling me more stuff in the future, who knows.

Hi Tristan,

Haltech is running like a dream no problems at all. Its certainly not as good as the factory ecu tune for idle and voltage drop but its at 15psi now and AFR is perfect which is the main concern after blowing the last engine.
My only advice would be to get the PS2000 if your car is a daily like mine. The extra inputs are needed for the idle dip when you turn the lights on and the Air con is running. If you have a factory or not to serious stereo you probably can just use the PS1000 but I'm driving 1600 watts so that gives me a little extra load.
I have fine tuned my Idle and voltage drop to just about perfect now which was quite a bit of fun but did take about 20 hours worth of fiddling with the settings on the ECU Manager.
On the big turbo forum Adaptronic is very popular for NB8B onwards with very little issues and Haltech doesn't even get a mention.
I'm sure either would be good but the main thing has been said over and over. Go with what your tuner knows best.
If he says Motec go motec. Vipec go vipec ect,ect

More importantly fuel economy is in the shitter. I'm getting around 300 km per tank but its a whole lotta fun. On a run down to Kiama last week it got around 450 for a tank but double demerits will do that.

Richard.

Thanks mate, yeah 300km a tank is about what I'm getting around the city now (maybe a little more, I always like to fill up early). PS1000 will probably do me, I have a new custom head unit however that's it and I don't really plan on getting the speakers updated atm (too many other things to spend money on first lol). Yeah there's a good tuner walking distance to my work that uses haltech so I think it makes sense that I just drop the car of there one morning and catch the bus home.

[Lokiel]

Firstly thanks for everyone for replying a good year and a half on, much appreciated.

You've been misinformed about adaptronics. They will also auto tune and shouldn't need any regular retuning if the tuner knows how to set up cold starts etc properly.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmm that's interesting, thanks for the feedback as I'd been trying to verify. Maybe the tuner up in Sydney was just trying to keep the door open to selling me more stuff in the future, who knows.

Getting cold+warm starts dialed-in nicely actually requires cold and warm environments as a starting point.

In summer, unless the car's in a refrigerated environment, the weather's not cold enough to tune the car for cold starts. Many tuners require the car for a few days during winter so that they can get a few cracks at a true cold-start environment - once the car is warmed up it needs to cool down again to test the cold-start tuning so there's really only a couple of opportunities to do that between 0700 and 1100, after that the weather's generally not cold enough to test cold starts.

So if you do get your ECU tuned in summer and live in a cold winter environment, it's quite normal that it will probably need some additional tuning 6 months later when it's winter to improve your cold starts.

[Tristan_ACT]

Getting cold+warm starts dialed-in nicely actually requires cold and warm environments as a starting point.

In summer, unless the car's in a refrigerated environment, the weather's not cold enough to tune the car for cold starts. Many tuners require the car for a few days during winter so that they can get a few cracks at a true cold-start environment - once the car is warmed up it needs to cool down again to test the cold-start tuning so there's really only a couple of opportunities to do that between 0700 and 1100, after that the weather's generally not cold enough to test cold starts.

So if you do get your ECU tuned in summer and live in a cold winter environment, it's quite normal that it will probably need some additional tuning 6 months later when it's winter to improve your cold starts.

Argh right, so it's not like redoing all the maps, probably just the cold starts. I know I'm being pedantic now, however would it be best to get it initially tuned in winter or going into winter. Then they could get the cold starts right in the morning/night and do the warm starts during the day?