Clutch fan into mx5

wazman · Postby **wazman** » Sun May 06, 2012 5:44 pm

Has anyone fitted a clutch fan into the mazda mx5 ?

no thermo on the market i can find draws as much air as a clutch fan.

What are other turbo racers doing to get their temps down ?

toppertee · Postby **toppertee** » Sun May 06, 2012 7:36 pm

Bigger rad.
Ducting.
Coolant re-route.

Postby **NitroDann** » Sun May 06, 2012 8:05 pm

Fans dont cool moving cars at all.

Dann

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Sun May 06, 2012 8:39 pm

You can get better cooling if you remove the fans altogether, just don't stop too long in traffic.

Steampunk · Postby **Steampunk** » Sun May 06, 2012 8:51 pm

???
Do you mean a fan run by an engine pulley?
Unless a big-ass engine-driven fan is completely enshrouded, ain't no way will it be anywhere near as efficient as much smaller, shrouded electric fans.

IIRC, some older Toyota engines 1JZ? 2JZ? were amongst the last to have them. I'm not sure if they are actually engine-driven, all I know is they are huge single fans.

wazman · Postby **wazman** » Sun May 06, 2012 10:08 pm

ok i have 52mm asi rad coreflute ducting

15 row oil cooler with motor bike thermo fitted to back of it.

Spal 12inch thermo replacing original stock thermo......draws 1100 cfm from memory. original a/c thermo is still used but wired in ti come on with main thermo.

i also run a vented bonnet at track days.

I drift at most days so air flow is not direct through the front and thus i think the fan is doing something when im pushing big angle.

im seeing 130+ deg after 4 laps :shock:

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Sun May 06, 2012 10:25 pm

I'd be trouble shooting the coolant circuit first.

How good is the thermostat? I've had trouble with aftermarket thermostats which open too slowly for competition use. I've seen temp go from 90 to 130 in less than one lap, about 40 secs. It happened on the first lap of two different sessions - so similar to a drift scenario. Later dropped the thermostat into near boiling water and saw it take 120secs to open. I fried an engine because the thermostat was built to handle slow changes only.

Also coolant re-route? Is the water pump working properly? Using silicon hoses? then check they're not collapsing under suction.

sailaholic · Postby **sailaholic** » Sun May 06, 2012 10:25 pm

A thinner rad may help as it requires less pressure to get airflow through all else being equal.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Postby **NitroDann** » Sun May 06, 2012 10:37 pm

Remove the thermostat and fit a plate with a 15mm hole in it in its place and try again. As well as a proper powerflush of the system.

Dann

wazman · Postby **wazman** » Mon May 14, 2012 12:22 am

I do have re route for the coolant installed already.

i have a "maruha" lower temp thermo stat....yet to put it in though.

i have tripple passed my radiator....gunna see how that goes.....prob install header tank too.