KU 31 vs KU36

[Apu]

Sailaholic - you're absolutely right about what's more important. I thought 6.5 should do, so I brought those in. Very few subscribed to that view unfortunately! So I have one more set of 15x6.5 - that said, I haven't actually advertised them for sale!

I appreciate your feedback for sure. It gives me the consumers view right? So I'd love to give the 6ULs some competition but again, I need volume. Maybe I need to run it as some sort of group buy...Vic, a hand here? I need to get 30 sets for the production run - any design, any offset, size, etc.

However, my initial feelings are to target the NC market and hopefully, the 86 will have the same stud pattern. That way, we can still sell the wheels in Asia - if you've been to Singapore, you'll see most cars are very new and in the other parts of SE Asia, my take is that the 4 stud pattern is dying out.

Interesting side note - I tried to get RPF1s for myself from Asia and was told they don't carry such old designs and small sizes...

zero00 - you're right on that point! Seat time, confidence and gonads! I reckon if I drove a.chen's car, I wouldn't be as fast as him. He's just prepared to be a lot more aggressive than I am.

[Aussie Stig]

That's the thing...I figured I was going to run no more than 205 so 6.5s were sufficient, but the market wants wide and stretched. Funnily enough, if I wanted 15x7, the price wouldn't have been any different. That said, the 16x7s don't sell for much more and they weight 6kg.

The rims being a couple of hundred grams lighter didn't bother me given the price difference.

That said, 6ULs have such a strong grip at this price point, I can't compete unless I up the volume significantly.

Competitive, but what Works model/design are you talking about, there are quite a few. Post some pics.

[Apu]

We're only doing one design at the moment...I think you might have us confused with Work, the Japanese company.

Pics on my garage thread here http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=46868&start=30

...and yes, they look like SSR/Speedline/BuddyClub...even JRD and TSW had a similar design years ago. We just picked a "safe" look.

[Aussie Stig]

Aw shucks, and I thought I could get a set of Meister rips for $700.

[Apu]

Ask NitroDann - he's got a set that he might sell.

[hks_kansei]

Ask NitroDann - he's got a set that he might sell.

If you want to get technical, his are SSR Professor SP1
(assuming he's still using the ones that the previous owner had on)


They look identical to Meisters, but cost more to buy brand new.

[Apu]

You're right you trainspotter you...for some reason, I had Work Meisters in my head.

[hks_kansei]

More that I knew the car in it's prior incarnation.

Apart from the stickers showing the brand, I can't tell a Meister from a Professor.

[NitroDann]

Im about to put them up for sale if anyone wants to make an offer.

They arent in perfect condition but Im not some BS Hektik mad tyte yo kid, and dont believe jdm rims are worth a fortune and dont care to chase a buyer who does for months.

Dann

[16bit]

what is the size of them Dann?

[A.Chen89]

Back to the original topic; I think a blind test would be better to compare the 31's to 36's with identical tyre size on the same car.

In Bryan's car I could feel that the 31's would were a bit less forgiving but I reckon I'd have to have a drive to confirm.

Regarding suspension, tyre width an tyre size, I would be inclined to think at an amateur level these differences would be fairly meaningless.

It's hard enough to get an amateur to drive consistently and to the limit on one setup, which makes making comparisons impossible.

Should probably sink some money into a pro driver and a data acquisition to see if all that info from suspension literature applies here.


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[Apu]

What are the size of your tyres Alex?

The thing that surprised me was how aggressively you could attack the corners. I was pussy-footing around them and the car was still squirming about as you noticed.

[project.r.racing]

Back to the original topic; I think a blind test would be better to compare the 31's to 36's with identical tyre size on the same car.

In Bryan's car I could feel that the 31's would were a bit less forgiving but I reckon I'd have to have a drive to confirm.

Regarding suspension, tyre width an tyre size, I would be inclined to think at an amateur level these differences would be fairly meaningless.

It's hard enough to get an amateur to drive consistently and to the limit on one setup, which makes making comparisons impossible.

Should probably sink some money into a pro driver and a data acquisition to see if all that info from suspension literature applies here.

Not sure what you are trying to find past the good responses that are in this thread or what a Kumho reseller couldn't tell you.

for me the difference betwenn the 2 is 2 seconds a lap at lakeside. and about 15,000km of street driving wear.

[NitroDann]

what is the size of them Dann?

16x7

In for sale section now.

Dann

[zero00]

project

I'm NOT the fastest driver around, and I am always thinking of the car BUT at Lakeside on KU36's I find them fine thru Hungry at 110kph+ in 3rd and up around 'Eastern Loop' still in 3rd i can almost flatten it out, according to tacho vision 4500-5000rpm at 20kph/1000 is pretty good around there and no sign of the rear breaking out - truth is it does come back to the driver! I DONT have guts to go harder! I know where I can find 3-4 secs in total but like most you need the balls to do it!

Kink onto the main straight? 1 to 2 secs
Late braking into Karasel 1 to 1.5secs
Late braking into Hungry 1 sec

1.09.55 less say, 3.5 secs? Answer? 1.06 or thereabouts!! It will come, just need the guts to do it!!

Target for July at Lakeside? 1.08.99 or better!!