(Another) Brake pads recommendation needed

[NMX516]

I've been through a range of pads and best setup I've found for mine are the Endless Cc-x pads with DBA slotted rotors. These have now been replaced by MX72.... great initial bite and modulation, quiet, low dust and NMX516 will attest to their stopping power.

Yes, they work!

[zephyrus17]

How's the Bendix Ultimates? All the local shops only have that as their best brake pad.

[Guran]

I've had two sets of Ultimates and just started Hawk HP+. The Ultimates worked nicely and coped fine with lots of trackday punishment. They were flaking on the edges towards the end, but they had lots of big heat cycles and my NA6 lives on the street exposed to the weather. The Hawks have more pedal feel at the limit of lock-up, and I found they were slightly cheaper too. You can mail order from MX5 Mania.

[zephyrus17]

I won't be using it for the track, though. Purely road use.

[Guran]

Fine for road use too. Although you could save a few dollars by just getting the General CT pads from Bendix.

[zephyrus17]

I don't think they have it. Only the Bendix Ultra Premium, Calibre or Ferodo pads

[snshami]

Hmmm, methinks pads are next on the agenda )

[davekmoore]

Well I'm going to change my mind. Another set of original Mazda fronts has lasted only about 5,000kms and three track days. So I no longer recommend them (at least for track days). I thought I was just using them harder during the second track day hence the rumbling and groaning. But on the third day they were making some very bad noises indeed, even when they're not being used.

So now I reckon I'll be needing pads and rotors. The sig below says what the car is. It's now used only for short trips to the office and longer drives to track days where I absolutely abuse the hell out of the brakes because so far I'm sh*t at going round corners. Even if i go for semi-slicks I'll be abusing the brakes just as hard, maybe even more.

So what thoughts on which pads and rotors (preferably that can be got immediately from a local factor in Bendigo)??

By the way, is it normal for the front rotors to be at 200 degrees with the rears at roughly half that at the end of a track session? Is it possible on an ABS car to alter the bias to make the rears do more of the work?

[rascal]

By the way, is it normal for the front rotors to be at 200 degrees with the rears at roughly half that at the end of a track session? Is it possible on an ABS car to alter the bias to make the rears do more of the work?

Your front brakes will always do most of the work. Weight transfer under brakes dictates this. (The reason why your front brakes are vented and rears are just solid discs)

In theory you could change the bias with a different proportioning valve so the rears did more but its not recommended (nor desired), as then you'd simply be reducing the amount of front braking occurring (or locking the rears every time), both of which would significantly reduce the overall braking capacity of the car.

[jlo8872]

So how much are the OEM Mazda pads in comparison to other pads like Ultimax?

J.

[Basho]

So how much are the OEM Mazda pads in comparison to other pads like Ultimax? J.

I was just quoted $160 for NA6 rears by Mazda Gold Coast , I didn't ask about the fronts.

I had NA6 front and rears EBC Ultimax OE equivalent/replacement (Aramid Fibre) delivered to my door for $110.00 by these guys-

http://www.mx5parts.co.uk/brakes-c-65.html

Took a week all up

[sailaholic]

In theory you could change the bias with a different proportioning valve so the rears did more but its not recommended (nor desired), as then you'd simply be reducing the amount of front braking occurring (or locking the rears every time), both of which would significantly reduce the overall braking capacity of the car.[/quote]

Huh! As along as you are still locking front brakes first there will no reduction in the work the fronts will be doing but there will be an increase in the work the rears are doing.

As for pads, mail order a set of qfm a1rm pads from gsl rally sport in Brisbane. Best pads I've dríven so far.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

[Sailor]

Guys,
I've been using EBC Reds for daily on DBA slotted rotors.
Braking is superb.
Not recommended for a trackday when I switch to the yellows which are still a great everyday pad though incredibly dusty.
Both ordered from MX5 parts UK

[rascal]

In theory you could change the bias with a different proportioning valve so the rears did more but its not recommended (nor desired), as then you'd simply be reducing the amount of front braking occurring (or locking the rears every time), both of which would significantly reduce the overall braking capacity of the car.

Huh! As along as you are still locking front brakes first there will no reduction in the work the fronts will be doing but there will be an increase in the work the rears are doing.

Thats not was davek was talking about. He was commenting that his fronts were twice the heat of the rears and asking if you can up the amount of work the rears do to reduce the temp inbalance.
To adjust them that much that the temps were similar front to rear would mean you are only using a fraction of the braking capacity of the fronts.

[Hellmun]

One other note is the ABS cars has EBD (Electronic Brake-Force Distribution) so it's already balancing the front and rear for you automatically. So your only going to make things much worse with a prop valve.

200C ain't that hot either, the stock pads should do that easily so how are you measuring? Also bad rear pads might be so low friction they put you outside the range of adjustment for the EBD. Until I put matching race pads front/rear my fronts got much hotter.