mrpham's summer build

RedMX · Postby **RedMX** » Mon Apr 16, 2012 11:43 pm

Cant wait to see the finished product.

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Tue Apr 17, 2012 8:24 am

Coolant reroute!

G

Postby **NitroDann** » Tue Apr 17, 2012 8:42 am

From someone who has built metal hardline coolant reroutes before, I dont imagine this is one.
Super heavy pipe.
90* bends.
Doesnt look to have enough intricate bends, unless its a hotside reroute and incorporates rubber hoses as well.

Looks to be a brace I though but no idea what for.

Dann

Postby **mrpham** » Thu Apr 19, 2012 9:14 pm

ITB Strip & Clean - http://omgpham.com/itb-strip-clean

So my AE101 Toyota ITBs are filthy, full of grime and covered in weird corrosion stuff. I can't mentally install them without giving them a refresh. I initially attempted to clean them by hand but to no avail, so I decided to get them professionally sand blasted.

The dirty yuk throttle bodies.

The screws holding the butterfly in are secured from factory by mushrooming the ends of the thread, this effectively prevents the screwd from backing out and getting into your engine. So I've had to drill out the screws to disassemble.

I then cleaned the butterflies as well as the insides of the throttle bodies, easily enough with some elbow grease a scotch-brite pad.

Because the throttle bodies use ball-bearings and seals for the main shaft, I had to tape off all openings before I take them to the sand blaster.

All the parts prepped and sorted out so I don't misplace anything, hopefully get a chance to drop it off to the sand blaster next week.

Postby **mrpham** » Mon Apr 23, 2012 1:51 pm

Decided I'm going to save up and get my head ported/machined as well as throwing in some billet cam shafts. So ITBs will be gathering more dust while I save up for the head work...

Most of the ITB bits... all billet aluminium and murdered out

dollar80 · Postby **dollar80** » Mon Apr 23, 2012 2:59 pm

like your work so far!
Word of warning regarding your nice clean butterfly discs? I know Nissan GTR butterflies have a special 'paint' around the edges of them to help seal them in the barrel for idle control - its a common problem for keen DIYer's and even workshops thinking they look dirty when building a new motor - clean all that off and once reassembled it results in a really high idle - like 2000+rpm with no way of lowering it externally (not enough adjustment from the factory to allow for that).
Dont know if the same applies to the Toyota parts but worth checking out before you reassemble! Looking at your pics it does seem 'dirtier' around the edges so I suspect it might be so.
You can buy the paint - cant remember what its called now but loctite/threebond make it.

Cheers Tim.

Postby **mrpham** » Mon Apr 23, 2012 4:58 pm

dollar80 wrote:like your work so far!
Word of warning regarding your nice clean butterfly discs? I know Nissan GTR butterflies have a special 'paint' around the edges of them to help seal them in the barrel for idle control - its a common problem for keen DIYer's and even workshops thinking they look dirty when building a new motor - clean all that off and once reassembled it results in a really high idle - like 2000+rpm with no way of lowering it externally (not enough adjustment from the factory to allow for that).
Dont know if the same applies to the Toyota parts but worth checking out before you reassemble! Looking at your pics it does seem 'dirtier' around the edges so I suspect it might be so.
You can buy the paint - cant remember what its called now but loctite/threebond make it.

Cheers Tim.

Thanks Tim!

I think your info possibly saved me hours of troubleshooting. I'll have to try find the paint/sealer to re-seal it.

BTW, I took a photo of the butterfly inside the bore and put a flashlight behind it. You can clearly see the light shiny past the gaps. Is it meant to be a perfect seal? Even at idle?

EDIT - forgot to add the photo, so here it is:

sailaholic · Postby **sailaholic** » Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:21 pm

You can get some a decent profile from a regrind cam and I found it to be less than half the cost of a billet set.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Postby **mrpham** » Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:28 pm

sailaholic wrote:You can get some a decent profile from a regrind cam and I found it to be less than half the cost of a billet set.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

Talked a bit with wozza1975, decided the cams will be 280degree with roughly .370-.380" of lift. So new shims for my solid lifters and valve springs are in order.

Apu · Postby **Apu** » Mon Apr 23, 2012 8:47 pm

There's a video on YouTube with Fariqe Hairuman talking about Works Engineering modded car. One of the item he shows is the throttle body which seals enough to be water tight.

Nit sure if that us relevant to your question here?

Postby **mrpham** » Mon Apr 23, 2012 10:10 pm

Apu wrote:There's a video on YouTube with Fariqe Hairuman talking about Works Engineering modded car. One of the item he shows is the throttle body which seals enough to be water tight.

Nit sure if that us relevant to your question here?

Thanks mate! I thought as much, so the butterflies should seal completely and idle has be to adjusted by the bypass screw.

Apu · Postby **Apu** » Mon Apr 23, 2012 10:26 pm

Yup, but the his to is beyond my tech capabilities.

In that clip, they pour a cup of water into the TB just to show how well it seals.

dollar80 · Postby **dollar80** » Tue Apr 24, 2012 5:00 pm

no worries!
We never checked if it was water tight but by painting it and after moving the throttles to self clearance you couldnt see light through them. Car idled normally after.
I think Tomei sell a tiny little jar of it too.
Google is your freind! Tomei throttle coat:
http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e193_others_gauge.html
Thats a third of a GTR's intake used in the picture.

Tim

Postby **mrpham** » Wed May 09, 2012 9:57 pm

Custom Wiring Harness - http://omgpham.com/custom-wiring-harness-part-1

I decided that since my car would be off the road for a month or two as I work on the engine, it would be a great chance to do a custom wiring harness for the car. This would mean the body and engine/ECU wiring harnesses would be separated and independent of each other. Try to keep it all as simple as possible, will be especially nice to have a dedicated harness for the Megasquirt =)

So I was lucky enough to pickup an entire wiring harness (body, main, power, dash) for a decent price and got started working on it.

I've stripped the following from the harness so far:

All engine wiring
Air Flow Meter
Ignitors & coils (going COPs for the Megasquirt)
IAC valve
Purge valve
O2 (going dedicated wideband)
AC stuff
Power-steering
Clutch switch
Neutral switch
Fan switch (Megasquirt will control fans)
probable more... can't remember

All engine/ECU related fuses and relays will be kept separate and located close to the ECU. The engine bay fuse/relay box will be made redundant and relocated under the dash as there will only be four fuses used at that location.

After a long day of peeling tape and cutting wires...

99% complete with the main harness, you can see the pile of tape and wires removed in this photo. Seems a bit excessive doesn't it?

This is the wiring kit from DIYAutoTune, pretty handy. Will be used for engine to ECU wiring.

I then spent the rest of the afternoon de-pinning the ECU terminals so I could salvage the pins to re-use. It sucks having a budget...