[NC] Finally bit the bullet

[NitroDann]

Something to do with the charcoal canister? Canisters open at idle.

Dann

[deanb90]

Something to do with the charcoal canister? Canisters open at idle.

Dann

Don't know what that is, can you point me in the right direction?

Cheers

[Sailor]

Been driving around all weekend, it's fantastic. Fuel isn't affected as much as i thought either. Car is pretty damn quick if i don't say so myself, pulls effortlessly in any gear.

It's running really well, But the rev hunting is back again when it's cold. Seems to jump from 500 rpm to 800rpm really rapidly, like it's fighting not to stall. It only really happens when i have the clutch in and apply the brake as well? Possibly vacuum leak?

Any ideas?

Sounds like there might be a loose connection to the MAF sensor.
Try disconnecting and reconnecting as many plugs as you can get to including that bitch down on the ECU.
Is it throwing any code (check engine light)?
Check all the connections on the inlet trunking are tight and not leaking air.
Basic Moto-East tune will need data logging and rewriting by Moto to get the tune right for your car but this doesn't sound like the problem.

[Charlie Brown]

^ yeah it is only for NA/NB

i gave the MAF a clean, seemed to fix the problem but then after filling up with fuel tonight it started doing it again. Fuel filter maybe?

Hi Dean, glad to see the S/C is in so quickly.

Your problem isn't the fuel filter, the NC's have a self cleaning system in the fuel pump, so no replaceable cartridge.

[deanb90]

Thanks Sailor.

It's not throwing any codes, light is not on. Will give the intake a really good clean this weekend and see how i go, still doesn't explain why it only does it when cold. the MAF is understandable though but i have already cleaned that and the TB. The car was not tuned by Moto East, it was done by FM's tuners which i think is dynotronics.

Charlie Brown

Thanks for the heads up, although the instructions did say they recommend to change the fuel filter before the install?

[Sailor]

OK, There is now a Dynotronics tuner in Sydney so if tune is the problem he should be able to help.
So, only when cold.
Send an email off to FM and see if they have seen the problem before.
Probably will have some ideas with the number of these kits now installed in the US.

I'd be going over the whole install step by step and checking that all hose clamps are tight and connectors properly seated.
Have fun...my fingers are itching.

[deanb90]

Oh they have already set up camp in Sydney? awesome news..

Going to go over all the wiring tomorrow. I have come to the conclusion that the ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor is probably faulty. It would make sense why it runs like sh*t in the cold. The car should run a little richer when cold, seems like it isn't. Ill be changing that sensor tomorrow.

Fingers crossed

Cheers

[Sailor]

Sensor fault should throw a code

[NC_Hammer]

I'm curious to know if the cars been on a dyno yet - what power figures is she putting down?

Wanting to go turbo, but fitting something nice down there is proving a big problem manifold wise and steering shaft/abs/chassis clearance.. Has the Cossie/Flyin charger given a big increase? I've seen Brian Goodwin had it up to ~266whp and Cyberbug @ 225whp, but thats on US dynos...

[NitroDann]

Thats so incredibly pathetic for a modern 2 litre with ten grand worth of sh*t on it.

A second hand 7 year old hayabusa (1.3L) makes most of that.

Dann

[Sailor]

But it's not "ten grand", it has real torque and doesn't need to spin to nearly 10,000rpm to develop its power.

[NitroDann]

Ok, whats the TOTAL cost?
And what does 10,000rpm have to do with it?

Any turbo kit will make more area under the curve, so if its torque you are after...

Dann

[NitroDann]

Sorry, 13 year old hayabusa.

Dann

[Sailor]

Total cost about $4500 which includes the tune and everything right down to the last cable tie to do the install.
A Water/Meth injection kit will cost another $350 and allow you to up the boost and provide a little safety margin on trackdays.

10,000rpm is where the Hyabusa makes its power...or nearly 10,000rpm, and the peak torque is up around 7000rpm....and not much of it either.
It doesn't matter on a bike but would be a PITA in a car, especially when that car is still a very capable daily drive.

[NC_Hammer]

I think the MP62 is too small for the motor.

The thing i'm interested in, is what power are us Aussies pushing out with this Cosworth/Flyin kit, as you may be aware, US dynos are usually very happy, in regards to inflating the figures by 20-30%. So that 266whp is more like 185-200whp? Thats low, not worth the $5k when you will still get beaten by a NA Honda k20/k24/k26 with basic upgrades!

The Begi kit seems to put out excellent power, 325whp off a gt2860 at 14psi, the thing is, i think this is inflated as well - 325whp off a gt2860? hmmm and the manifold design (no collector) i'm not a fan of.

i'd be interested to see what power can be obtained from the mp62 + 3" exhaust, water meth, intake and the new long tube headers from GWR. If it can push 280whp, great, but i doubt it, then you also have massive heat issues, 1-2laps of the track and slow down...

i think our motors can put out good power, it's used in many other applications (open wheelers/Formula Atlantic cars), built motors pushing 280-300whp+ NA, it just i get the feeling no one wants to develop a nicely engineered kit with proper equipment and when they do, it gets canned as costs 'blow out' or it's too hard.

Flyin was on the right track with this imo... then CW sold off all their kit and they dropped the project as it was cheaper to buy the existing CW kit.



I'm sure there is true 300whp in our motors out of a nice, well made, well engineered FI setup - somebody step up and make it!!!

Ideas: