New Shock time?
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- Racing Driver
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Re: New Shock time?
NitroDann quote on wheel aligners....
The 'technician' doesnt give a sh!t.
Dann
_________________
Serious Headwork, 275* Cams, Solid Lifters,Balanced, ACL, 10.5:1, E85, 550's,6 speed, 4.1 trsn, HKS Hipermaxx, Whiteline Sways, toyota COP- WP 1:14.4
The 'technician' doesnt give a sh!t.
Dann
_________________
Serious Headwork, 275* Cams, Solid Lifters,Balanced, ACL, 10.5:1, E85, 550's,6 speed, 4.1 trsn, HKS Hipermaxx, Whiteline Sways, toyota COP- WP 1:14.4
Silver Nomad
2002 NB8C
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Re: New Shock time?
Some do.
Most of the ones like Kmart and Bob Jane don't, but the independant ones often do care.
As much as he can be blunt, Dann does actually have a lot of knowledge behind him.
Most of the ones like Kmart and Bob Jane don't, but the independant ones often do care.
As much as he can be blunt, Dann does actually have a lot of knowledge behind him.
1999 Mazda MX5 - 1989 Honda CT110 (for sale) - 1994 Mazda 626 wagon (GF's)
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Re: New Shock time?
Really no need to defend him....
In 1963 when I punted my Austin Healey Sprite Mk 2A around Calder Raceway in the Victorian 24 hr. Relay there were smartarses around too.....sad,sad, cases giving those they considered less knowledgeable a hard time to feed their egos....
"serious headwork" indeed!
In 1963 when I punted my Austin Healey Sprite Mk 2A around Calder Raceway in the Victorian 24 hr. Relay there were smartarses around too.....sad,sad, cases giving those they considered less knowledgeable a hard time to feed their egos....
"serious headwork" indeed!
Silver Nomad
2002 NB8C
2002 NB8C
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Re: New Shock time?
Cool story
You are less knowledgeable as you admited not too many post ago.
Have a cup of cement.
You are less knowledgeable as you admited not too many post ago.
Silvia wrote:I don't understand a skerrick of it all, sorry to say, and when Miata net. etc. come up with quite different "ideal" settings, well what are we poor shmucks to think?
Just trying to point out how hard it is for the non-technical and inexperienced to get a handle on it.....we just want it to steer good
Have a cup of cement.
- Guran
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Re: New Shock time?
All this fuss over a paltry $80!!! If you won't take CB's very reliable advice, then just DIY the alignment and muck around with whatever settings feel best to you for no cost. All you need is string, a ruler and some spanners. You've obviously got plenty of time to figure out how to do it. Google it.
Standard 2006 NC - YouTube
WP 1:11.89 | SMP-S 1:05.90 GP 1:54.93 N 1:18.09 L 2:22.49 | PW 1:02.52
PI 2:00.55 | W-S 1:12.44 W-L 1:43.36 | SR 1:33.25
WP 1:11.89 | SMP-S 1:05.90 GP 1:54.93 N 1:18.09 L 2:22.49 | PW 1:02.52
PI 2:00.55 | W-S 1:12.44 W-L 1:43.36 | SR 1:33.25
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Re: New Shock time?
"Charlie Brown made a point that U.S. conditions are different to ours.....?
Just trying to point out how hard it is for the non-technical and inexperienced to get a handle on it.....we just want it to steer good
Anyway I'll go with his figures and let's see how it goes..."
Reply posted a few back......suggest you read background posts before shooting off and being rude
Googling and looking up Miata/MX5 sites gives lots of contradictory settings advice (as shown in earlier posts) and is no help at all.
Instead of being rude , how about posting Guran's definitive settings for NA/NB street performance alignment and being helpful? All stock cars are the same after all....
Just trying to point out how hard it is for the non-technical and inexperienced to get a handle on it.....we just want it to steer good
Anyway I'll go with his figures and let's see how it goes..."
Reply posted a few back......suggest you read background posts before shooting off and being rude
Googling and looking up Miata/MX5 sites gives lots of contradictory settings advice (as shown in earlier posts) and is no help at all.
Instead of being rude , how about posting Guran's definitive settings for NA/NB street performance alignment and being helpful? All stock cars are the same after all....
Silver Nomad
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Re: New Shock time?
Silvia wrote:All stock cars are the same after all....
But all drivers arent.
The thing you seem to be missing is that there is no such thing as one PERFECT alignment.
The US is different because their roads may be in a different condition, but also, they drive on the opposite side, which means their cars are always leaning the opposite way to us due to the road tilt.
Also, they have the driver's weight of 60-80-100kg on the opposite side to us.
There is no 100% perfect alignment, if there was none of the alignment threads would exist, we'd all just use that one perfect alignment.
Guran does a lot of trackdays, so I'm sure whatever alignment setting he uses reflect that.
Mine spends it's time doing runs up the hills, and also long freeway drives, my settings reflect that.
People have different tastes and needs.
1999 Mazda MX5 - 1989 Honda CT110 (for sale) - 1994 Mazda 626 wagon (GF's)
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Re: New Shock time?
No, There is no definitive guide! Its not a menu choice! That's what people are trying to tell you. Guran use his car for mainly track purposes.
Tires, driving style, what you want will change the optimum. That is why every one has slightly different.
Look seeing as you are a firm believer of the factory getting things right.
USE THE FACTORY ALIGNMENT SETTINGS!!
THEY ARE DEFINITIVE AND IN A PUBLISHED DOCUMENT!
ffs
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
Tires, driving style, what you want will change the optimum. That is why every one has slightly different.
Look seeing as you are a firm believer of the factory getting things right.
USE THE FACTORY ALIGNMENT SETTINGS!!
THEY ARE DEFINITIVE AND IN A PUBLISHED DOCUMENT!
ffs
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
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Re: New Shock time?
General comment is factory settings are "safe" and vague and meant to cover all eventualities, countries and mechanic skill levels. Something a little more accurate than that would be desirable don't you think?.....
Silver Nomad
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Re: New Shock time?
Here are the perfect alignment settings, as vouched for by the International Alignment Setting Committee who have done quite a bit of research into the topic.
Keep both sides the same.
Front
Camber: -7.5
Castor: -4.36
Toe: Out 5.4
Rear: Camber +4
Castor: +2
Toe: In 6.8
Keep both sides the same.
Front
Camber: -7.5
Castor: -4.36
Toe: Out 5.4
Rear: Camber +4
Castor: +2
Toe: In 6.8
Red 1990 NA | 1949 MG TC. TC 6568 | 244GL Rally Volvo | 1979 HZ Kingswood
"If you can't undestand from wiki, I can't help you." - A wise man
"If you can't undestand from wiki, I can't help you." - A wise man
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Re: New Shock time?
OK, I think I've had enough of the "I don't know the answer but instead of keeping out let's abuse the poster" approach.Or the infamous "Google or Search it" when they obviously have and hoped for better.
Or I've just been bothered to read a few back lines so I'm qualified to post my ignorant comment now.
What MX5 people around the world must think when they see these comments quoted here I can't imagine....but it ain't good!
Thanks to those couple of guys like CB who were genuinely helpful...I have what I asked
for......
Or I've just been bothered to read a few back lines so I'm qualified to post my ignorant comment now.
What MX5 people around the world must think when they see these comments quoted here I can't imagine....but it ain't good!
Thanks to those couple of guys like CB who were genuinely helpful...I have what I asked
for......
Silver Nomad
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2002 NB8C
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Re: New Shock time?
The gift that keeps on giving.
- Guran
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Re: New Shock time?
Sorry if you felt my post was "rude". I was being genuine and offering an alternate solution. Let me try again one last time ...
Adjusting the wheel alignment yourself is relatively straightforward and doesn't cost a cent. You need to be able to set up a string-line parallel to your wheels, measure distance with a ruler, loosen/tighten a few nuts with spanners, and do some simple arithmetic & trigonometry with the aid of a calculator. A methodical approach will get you there. The following DIY guide as a starting point: http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/BackyardAlignment.html
You could start with the alignment specs that CB provided. If you don't like them, then adjust them yourself to some other recommended settings, and see if they suit you better. You could try dozens of different set-ups with the only cost being your time. I agree with the above comments that there is no ONE alignment set-up that suits all purposes, but there will be ONE alignment set-up that suits YOU. The approach I'm suggesting will let you find it without having to pay for multiple charges for fresh wheel alignments.
For the record, my NA6 has standard suspension and is 100% set-up for track driving. My alignment is fairly aggressive, although I'm comfortable with the handling on the street too. Front: caster is maxed, camber is -1.25°, toe is zero. Rear: camber is -2.25°, toe is zero (going from memory - camber might be a little either way of those figures). Freeway cruising is comfortable with no tramlining (I have 185/60R14 tyres at 29psi on the street), braking is straight and true with no wandering, and the handling is neutral (understeer or oversteer can be called up at will). However, I use a lot of lift-off oversteer on track, so it's not a set-up for the unprepared.
Adjusting the wheel alignment yourself is relatively straightforward and doesn't cost a cent. You need to be able to set up a string-line parallel to your wheels, measure distance with a ruler, loosen/tighten a few nuts with spanners, and do some simple arithmetic & trigonometry with the aid of a calculator. A methodical approach will get you there. The following DIY guide as a starting point: http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/BackyardAlignment.html
You could start with the alignment specs that CB provided. If you don't like them, then adjust them yourself to some other recommended settings, and see if they suit you better. You could try dozens of different set-ups with the only cost being your time. I agree with the above comments that there is no ONE alignment set-up that suits all purposes, but there will be ONE alignment set-up that suits YOU. The approach I'm suggesting will let you find it without having to pay for multiple charges for fresh wheel alignments.
For the record, my NA6 has standard suspension and is 100% set-up for track driving. My alignment is fairly aggressive, although I'm comfortable with the handling on the street too. Front: caster is maxed, camber is -1.25°, toe is zero. Rear: camber is -2.25°, toe is zero (going from memory - camber might be a little either way of those figures). Freeway cruising is comfortable with no tramlining (I have 185/60R14 tyres at 29psi on the street), braking is straight and true with no wandering, and the handling is neutral (understeer or oversteer can be called up at will). However, I use a lot of lift-off oversteer on track, so it's not a set-up for the unprepared.
Standard 2006 NC - YouTube
WP 1:11.89 | SMP-S 1:05.90 GP 1:54.93 N 1:18.09 L 2:22.49 | PW 1:02.52
PI 2:00.55 | W-S 1:12.44 W-L 1:43.36 | SR 1:33.25
WP 1:11.89 | SMP-S 1:05.90 GP 1:54.93 N 1:18.09 L 2:22.49 | PW 1:02.52
PI 2:00.55 | W-S 1:12.44 W-L 1:43.36 | SR 1:33.25
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Re: New Shock time?
So how are you finding it with the new alignment? Keen to hear feedback to cap off the discussion in this thread.
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- Racing Driver
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