Advice on extra quickness for BARMY the SE

[davekmoore]

Thank goodness BARMY is now defo a keeper for me and no longer has to be used as a DD and will be a local driver, a weekender and a track day/sprint car.

This is what's already done:

Mazdaspeed AEM air intake, Cooling Pro intercooler, SP Motorsports exhaust, Denso 440cc injectors, GFB recirculation valve, BEGi TB inlet, Haltech boost solenoid + Interceptor, OG 02 Clamp, oil cooler and oil filter relocation kit, 174rwkw, Tein flex coilovers, BD roll bar, Yoko C Drives.

The brakes, chassis, suspension, lsd and tyres will stand way more power and way more driver ability.

I do still appreciate that the best way for BARMY and me as a combination to get quicker is for me to be a better driver and I'll work on that. I also appreciate that some of the comfort kit can be removed to comply with Colin Chapman's philosophy for going faster and I'll do some of that too. Note also that cams, headwork, rods and pistons will probably be done, just not yet.

So considering all of the above and assuming I keep improving the nut behind the wheel, what do you turbo people reckon I should do next for more power?

[Okibi]

I'd work towards replacing the turbo and turbo manifold next.

Seems the standard turbo is designed to be tame and avoid lots of warranty claims, better turbo and manifold will put a bigger smile on your face.

I'll let the turbo gurus discuss which turbo best suits your application.

Glad you're keeping Barmy

[Novice1]

Garret t28 turbo, dump pipe with collectors.
cheers novice1

[MINX]

I am at that point also davek
Only way to move forward seems to be better turbo with associated manifolds
But I am coming to the conclusion the extra, maybe 50 whp on stock internals is probably not worth the expense
Unless you are drag racing, then tyres suspension brakes and practice will improve your track lap times more than the hp


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[davekmoore]

Thanks for the thoughts. What sort of money am I into for turbo, dump pipe and collectors fully done, maybe also including an upgrade for the Haltech? Will that mean bigger injectors? Is a T28 going to be more efficient through the rev range or will it be more peaky?

Hopefully the pistons and rods can cope with the above until work is also done on the head, cams, and balancing the bottom end. Again, what sort of money?

Not going to do any more to tyres suspension and brakes but will do further work on improving the driver.

[NitroDann]

The T28 is significantly more efficient at all flow rates and pressures than the stock turbo. Price depends on age of turbo and design of manifold/dump.

If I had a 1.8 car around Id have built one ready to sell already.

Dann

[lightyear]

I would not be chasing more power. I only had about 125rwkw on my old car, and it would have gone well under 1:50if I had of gone back tp p.I. You have plenty of power to start with, and it will be better for reliability. I would get the car corner balanced and set up to suit your driving, and the track. I can give you the guys number that did mine. Get some aero, and get lots of seat time. The best way to go faster is to keep going to the track.

[NitroDann]

Also, you need rods -now-.

Dann

[sailaholic]

Depends on if your want ought to be fast or quick. Ie traffic light or race course. Your answers to me sound like you want more power, not faster lap times.

No offence meant. Trying to be helpful.

Head and cams 1500 reusing existing stuff. Add 3-400 for new valves and about the same for valve springs.
balanced bottom end 2500 depending on which rods and pistons.

Assumes you do removal ect yourself.

There is a recent thread here on na8 rebuild that had just been completed that has a list and prices.

Can't help on the turbo side.

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[greenMachine]

I am reminded of Bwob's (other) saying - 'if you can't be fast on 90hp, you won't be fast on 900'. (I am sure someone will correct me if I have got the figures wrong )

That leads me to second the suggestion above, that you spend your money on track time, and tuition.

Calling a halt to mods will allow you to fully assess the improvements in your driving - you will be able to see what works, and by how much, and what does not. Mixing that up with changes to the car will lead to confusion, at least on the driving side, and from your own description in another thread, driving technique seems to be the highest priority

[davekmoore]

Depends on if your want ought to be fast or quick. Ie traffic light or race course. Your answers to me sound like you want more power, not faster lap times.

No offence meant. Trying to be helpful.

Head and cams 1500 reusing existing stuff. Add 3-400 for new valves and about the same for valve springs.
balanced bottom end 2500 depending on which rods and pistons.

Assumes you do removal ect yourself.

There is a recent thread here on na8 rebuild that had just been completed that has a list and prices.

Can't help on the turbo side.

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No offence taken. I have very thick skin anyway. Yup, want more power. Bored with 174rwkw now and happy now I'm keeping BARMY to take him nearer his limits in stages. Not bovvered about being fastest on the track or at the lights because I know I'll never be a quick driver and have no need to win any driving competitions. But I will get more track time to improve me, and will start to get weight out now BARMY isn't my only car. E.g; the sub woofer will go in the Skoda soon.

There will be no do it yourself involved in the power upgrades as such an event in my hands would result in all sorts of bad noises and holes in blocks etc. And I'm too busy to learn to be a spannerman.

I appreciate the thoughts about doing the bottom end now but since it's coped fine with the present power often being used for 100,000+kms I'll choose to do turbo and plumbing as the next stage (let's call it stage 3 after everything Blackster did maybe counts for stages 1 and 2). If the rods let go (they're not supposed to until you get 200rwkw) I have spare cars to use while stage 4 is done, which would be balancing, rods, pistons, with stage 5 being heads, valves, cams.

So how about new estimates of costs, maybe including yet bigger injectors and a new computer? Happy to have commercial responses to this including by PM if you're not allowed to sell to me by public reply.

[timk]

Maybe you should have held onto the highflow turbo!

[sailaholic]

Costs here for a standard rebuild.
http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=51978

Costs from my last post would still be in the ball park just add the labour and what not.

Ecu a you'll look at 1500? for adaptronic, 2100? For haltec. 700 for a,megasquirt (just for you dann) but of you don't like doing anything yourself its probably not a good option.

viewtopic.php?t=51978.

No point doing the bottom end and not doing the top at the same time if you're chasing go

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[NitroDann]

I appreciate the thoughts about doing the bottom end now but since it's coped fine with the present power often being used for 100,000+kms I'll choose to do turbo and plumbing as the next stage (let's call it stage 3 after everything Blackster did maybe counts for stages 1 and 2). If the rods let go (they're not supposed to until you get 200rwkw) I have spare cars to use while stage 4 is done, which would be balancing, rods, pistons, with stage 5 being heads, valves, cams.

i dont understand the point of putting new turbo gear on the engine and then risking destroying it when you pistons and valves hit each other AND THEY WILL, when your rod snaps, it slucky you havnt completely snapped one already.

Dann

[davekmoore]

Maybe you should have held onto the highflow turbo!

Yup. Just needed the money at the time. Life, eh?

I also hear you about junking the bottom end Dann. What are the chances after 80,000kms so far?