who uses what engine oil

[Basho]

Anyone have used Purolator Pureone filters? better than ryco or mazda OEM?

Quite pricey at $17.95 plus shipping to Syd $16.30 from fullnoise.net.au.

I used Purolator wet filters (cartridge) in a Citroen C2 I bought in a moment of mental dystrophy . I can't recall anything good --or bad about them except , like everything else associated with and including the C2, the cost , I seem to remember , was ex-frakin-tortionate

And on topic--Nulon fully synthetic (which everyone knows it aint) 15x50 , after trying a couple of others I've settled on this , the car seems to like it and it's in the recomended viscosity range given the average ambient temp on the GC.

[hks_kansei]

Anyone have used Purolator Pureone filters? better than ryco or mazda OEM?

It always gets me this question.

For most people there's no real way to know if it's better or worse. The only way is to use each kind and after each use send the oil off to be examined properly and see which is better filtered.

Most people won't bother.



For me, I'm starting to use "drift" brand filters from Autobarn.

My reason:
They have a nut on the end so it's easier to take off for the next oil change.

[project.r.racing]

I have just purchased the car, so I have no idea what is currently in it.
Motor seems to running well. Not to tapetey. Haven't checked the oil.

I just wanted to change all fluids for peace of mind, to give me a solid good base line.

Most synthetic 5W40s are close to the specs of mineral 10W30s of the 90s.

So start there, then go thicker if required.

Don't bother with cheap mineral oils. Synthetic oils are so cheap nowadays, you might as well put the good stuff in, and have longer periods between changes.

Penrite HPR5 5W40 is $43 for a 5L bottle. And you only need 4L per change. <Example>

[zephyrus17]

I started with 5W-30 Castrol, but the mechanic said it was a bit thin at the top, so I'm now on 5W-40 Mobile1, I think. No problems so far.

[slimx]

REDLINE MOTOR OIL (i service every 4-5k) and always in winter and summer.
5W30 Winter
10W40 Summer

[Basho]

Anyone know if the later models use different viscosity engine oils from the early NA6/8 series ?

[NitroDann]

Which models in particular?

Dann

[Basho]

Not sure, just notice a number of people using 5x30 which is realy in the Arctic type of temp range viscositys according to the NA6 workshop manual, so just wondering .

[project.r.racing]

NC MZR engines like 5W40s 0W30s.

NA6/8 B6 and BP engines liked 10W30 (back when the handbook was 1st printed).

As said I posted earlier, advancement in oils etc, means 5W40 synthetics are close to what old skool 10W30 minerals were in the early 90s.

All oils have a data/product sheets, this give you the cSt (centistroke)(viscosity = ability to flow) at pouring temp, 40C and 100C (operating temp). This is the info you need to make a decission about your oils. And then there are so many varibles that go into it, that it is like trying to measure a ball of string trying to answer which oil is best.

As I own both a BP and MZR engines in 2 different cars, I did some research a while back from only Penrite products:-

Penrite HPR 0 00w30 64.0 cSt @ 40C, 11.4 cSt @ 100C
Penrite HPR 5 05w40 92.0 cSt @ 40C, 15.0 cSt @ 100C
Penrite HPR 10 10w50 127.0 cSt @ 40C, 19.0 cSt @ 100C
Penrite HPR 15 15w60 177.0 cSt @ 40C, 24.3 cSt @ 100C

Old skool mineral 10W30s have average ranges of 65-75 cSt @ 40C and 10.5-11.5 cSt @ 100C. So as you can see, a 0W30 fits close to the bill compared to older 10W30s. Then you've gotta throw into the equation age factors, it is buring some oil at high rpm? It is got worn valve stem seals? Does it get used on the track (so @ 150C operating temp)? What are the service interval time lengths? Etc?

Also one thing to note, and this comes back to the handbook printed in 1989. It was printed with info current for 1989. Oil technologies etc have advanced so much, that reading the handbook about what fluids to put in the car will just send you in the wrong direction.

Reading that handbook is like reading a navigational book that says the Earth is flat. It is just a little outdated for our current time.

[Mr Morlock]

one can disappear down a dark tunnel about the specs on oil and probably most people other than perhaps mechanical engineers or oil technicians etc will even be aware of the relative significance of those specs.It hard enough just understanding food labels.

It seems common knowledge that oils have improved- one might even suggest maybe incorrectly that all oils for cars are better than 1989 as an example. However I also suspect some oils are dearer than they need to be and it is easy to pay double the price of one oil compared to another- despite the lower price being a well known brand. Dealers and car servicing establishments will generally not use full synthetics unless you ask and pay extra. It therefore follows that a car you buy at 100,000 has been serviced with bulk know brand oil .

For the average road driver changing oil as per maintenance schedule it is probably impossible to pick one oil from another. Would it surprise us if oil companies would prefer you buy their premium oils?

[project.r.racing]

The dark long tunnel analogy is very true. But if some science isn't thrown in. Then you might as well just pull any bottle off the shelf and use it.

Crude oil has gone through the roof in the past 10 years. So many oil manufacturers are switching to synthetic oils. Gone are the days where synthetics cost much more than mineral oils. Due to the increasing cost of crude. Hence the massive increase in oil technologies.

The reason I poked around with those Penrite products, is that Penrite recently changed those 4 product from semi synthetic to full synthetic in their range. And the cost difference was about $1 increase a 5L bottle at SCA. I've been using the 5W40 in a MZR and the 15W60 in my beat up BP for 3+ years.

Going full synthetic for $1 extra is a win for me. Less shearing and longer duration between services equals a win for me.

p.s. I am not a sales rep for Penrite.

[TIP]

canola oil n15 pulsar

[JBT]

I have just purchased the car, so I have no idea what is currently in it.
Motor seems to running well. Not to tapetey. Haven't checked the oil.

I just wanted to change all fluids for peace of mind, to give me a solid good base line.

Most synthetic 5W40s are close to the specs of mineral 10W30s of the 90s.

So start there, then go thicker if required.

Don't bother with cheap mineral oils. Synthetic oils are so cheap nowadays, you might as well put the good stuff in, and have longer periods between changes.

Penrite HPR5 5W40 is $43 for a 5L bottle. And you only need 4L per change. <Example>

I think project.r.racing is on the money. Go for HPR 10 if in doubt. I'm using HPR 5 in the NC (60,000km and tracked) and the Astina (105.000 km now with new owners). I'll probably move to Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 for the MX-5 and BMW (currently on Shell at 140,000 km) so I don't have to keep two oils.

[Silvia]

Have been using Castrol Edge 5-30 but now it's called "Titanium" and costs more, so may have to reconsider.

On the subject of filters....What's the easiest size to get off and on for an NB8C?
Had heard bigger was , but just read that smaller is better