NC Brake Job

Technical Guides primarily to do with the NC series

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Red Baron
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NC Brake Job

Postby Red Baron » Tue Feb 24, 2009 7:19 pm

Hi Guys,

Fronts are a walk in the park.

Rears, anyone done the rears?

I am thinking that I need to back off the handbrake to get the piston back.

Anyone done the job and have a comment?

baron
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JBT
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NC Brake Job

Postby JBT » Tue Feb 24, 2009 7:47 pm

There is a fair bit of info here.
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NC Brake Job

Postby IMMX5 » Tue Feb 24, 2009 11:03 pm

Haven't had to replace the rears but have removed them when having a brake problem a while back.

Retract the piston by rotating them - would imagine clockwise to retract. From memory only retract as much as you need to fit the new pads bearing in mind each 1/4 turn is a fair bit. You also need to ensure the cruciform orientation is maintained - there is a locating 'stub' on the rear of the pad squeal shim. The brakes should self adjust with application of the handbrake.



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Garry
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NC Brake Job

Postby Garry » Wed Feb 25, 2009 8:56 am

One of my other cars used that system. Gen2 RX7 maybe?
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Red Baron
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NC Brake Job

Postby Red Baron » Wed Feb 25, 2009 8:14 pm

Thanks guys, it all makes sense now.

baron
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JBT
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Re: NC Brake Job

Postby JBT » Sun Mar 04, 2012 11:19 am

The repair manual indicates an SST should be used to rotate the piston - see attached. What have others used to rotate the piston? Will any flat plate e.g. a flat file end do the trick?
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Charlie Brown
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Re: NC Brake Job

Postby Charlie Brown » Tue Mar 06, 2012 9:31 pm

I just use a broad flat chisel to rotate the piston back in.
Tip: Pump the brakes before you pull the hand brake on. I found the brakes bound if I did it the other way around.
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Re: NC Brake Job

Postby JBT » Wed Mar 07, 2012 6:29 am

Thanks CB. Did you need to disconnect the handbrake cable at the caliper when changing the rear pads?
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Re: NC Brake Job

Postby JBT » Wed Mar 28, 2012 6:51 am

Discussed this with CB off-line and have now successfully completed a front and rear pad change. No need to remove the handbrake cable.
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