Andrew's '93 NA6 - KL V6 swap

jules · Postby **jules** » Tue Feb 07, 2012 5:19 pm

Bloody hell. Just found this thread.....subscribed!

Jules

Postby **Andy_W** » Fri Feb 10, 2012 10:32 am

Subscribed!!!

Beelzeboss · Postby **Beelzeboss** » Fri Feb 10, 2012 7:36 pm

I'm pretty sure that the oil starvation issues are a myth. I can't find any recorded incident of problems and I measured that the engine was 100% level in the MX-6. It's only the asymmetric cam covers and intake manifold which make it appear as if it's mounted on an angle.
As for the exhaust I think I'm going to have to use the MX-6 cat and mufflers to get it engineered and registered.

Over the past few days I've been working on the intake manifold. I had to abandon the lexan cover for a few reasons. 1. It wouldn't fit under the bonnet. 2. My welding is pretty atrocious. 3. The piece of lexan I got isn't thick enough. So anyway, it will be fine with an aluminium top. Here's where I'm up to at the moment with the manifold.

The only problem I can see is this gap. I forgot to take into account the angle on top of the cover, it's not 90 degrees so that threw things out. I'll just weld a small patch in there. It won't be visible from the front so I'm not worried.

Most of the work was grinding and hammering parts of the manifold to clear the fuel rail connectors but that's all done now. I think I'll be able to finish it 100% tomorrow, then it's on to the exhaust and/or wiring (the only two major things left to do

)

Beelzeboss · Postby **Beelzeboss** » Tue Feb 14, 2012 7:09 pm

The intake manifold is now completely finished apart from the fittings and grinding back a bit of weld on the throttle body mounting surface.

I also made a good start on the wiring. Both cars are Mazdas and are built within 2 years of each other so I wasn't surprised to find the wiring is very similar. Most of the wires just involve swapping connectors onto existing wires. I think I only have to run 4 new wires; 1 for the extra injectors, 1 for the extra spark outputs, 1 for the fan control, and another for the tacho output. Unfortunately the KL doesn't have a proper oil pressure sensor, just a switch. I want to try and adapt an MX-5 one to fit, I like the idea of seeing the actual oil pressure and I want all the gauges to work as they did before.

I've done the wiring for the fuel injectors, TPS, IACV, alternator (so easy, wires were even the same colour

), coolant temp gauge sensor and the ECU coolant temp sensor. All that's left is to finish wiring in my homemade ignitor, the starter motor, CAS, fan control and tacho output.

Homemade 3 channel ignitor using BIP373's from diyautotune.com

Ford Falcon AU II ignition coil. It was also used on the Mazda MPV.

Tomorrow I should be able to finish the wiring and either start on the exhaust or find a place to put the oil filter.

Jace · Postby **Jace** » Wed Feb 15, 2012 5:11 pm

sick, it's getting close!

i was shocked to find there's people who doubt you'll get this finished. i have absolute faith in your motivation and skillset.

Beelzeboss · Postby **Beelzeboss** » Tue Feb 21, 2012 8:38 am

Thanks Jace, it's good to know someone thinks I can finish it

My mates are always joking about how long it's been off the road, but not long now until it's back!

Engine out to install clutch, trim the adapter plate AGAIN and to fabricate part of the exhaust which is impossible to get to with the engine installed.

It's a set of factory front manifolds (bought a second from pick'n'payless) to two 2" 316 stainless pipes, hopefully then merging into a single 2.5" before it goes past the gearbox. I needed the matching manifolds because the drivers side needed to exit at the front to clear the steering column and the passenger side needed to exit at the rear to clear the oil filter relocation pipes.
It's definitely going to sound different to a normal KL with the unequal length exhaust system.

As much as I hate remaking parts I think I'm going to make another set of engine mount brackets. If the engine was 10-20mm closer to the drivers side there would be much more clearance on the alternator and exhaust. I ground back part of the alternator bracket because it was touching the frame but it still only has around 10mm clearance. Also, the sump hits slightly on the passenger side but there's at least 25mm clearance on the drivers side.

jules · Postby **jules** » Tue Feb 21, 2012 9:14 am

Yes, I was wondering why you didn't take the drivers side exhaust towards the back. Must get mighty tighty in there.

Jules

Beelzeboss · Postby **Beelzeboss** » Tue Feb 21, 2012 8:11 pm

jules wrote:Yes, I was wondering why you didn't take the drivers side exhaust towards the back. Must get mighty tighty in there.

Jules

Yeah it's pretty close on both sides. I wanted to have the exhaust down the passenger side as there are heaps of wires and the slave cylinder on the drivers side. Not to mention the steering column is right in the way.

This afternoon I took off the adapter plate and ground down a little bit of it which was in the way of the exhaust. I then fitted the chromoly flywheel and flyin' miata stage 1 clutch, which I thought would be a 15 minute job...

Then I tried to put the gearbox on... why isn't it sitting flush?

The stupid KL flywheel is slightly too big for the MX-5 bellhousing. There were a few teeth marks on the inside of the bellhousing.
So, a little bit of grinding here:

and here:

and... still hitting... feck. So I went to town with the angle grinder and finally made enough room for the flywheel to spin without hitting anything.

Then I just had to test the starter engagement.

Perfect! It cranks over nicely. A few more wires, mounting brackets, some oil, fuel and vacuum lines and I'll be ready for the first start!

mitch_f1 · Postby **mitch_f1** » Tue Feb 21, 2012 8:46 pm

Would flywheel flex be much of an issue if the clearances for the bell housing are so tight?

Beelzeboss · Postby **Beelzeboss** » Tue Feb 21, 2012 9:01 pm

Flywheel flex? It's chromoly and all forces on it, apart from the starter motor, are axial and wouldn't cause it to flex... not sure if it will be an issue, I've never heard the term before.

mitch_f1 · Postby **mitch_f1** » Tue Feb 21, 2012 9:19 pm

I could have just invented it... :oops:

I mean I am not terribly knowledgable in the area, but surely there would be some lateral flex?

Bizi · Postby **Bizi** » Tue Feb 21, 2012 10:26 pm

It's getting to the most exciting moments of the build. Nice work so far.

Once you've worked out all of the fabricating, would you ever consider making a kit, based on what works? I think you might get some takers, since it's theoretically a great swap - just requiring one heck of a lot of step-by-step modding.

Good luck with the next steps.

Beelzeboss · Postby **Beelzeboss** » Thu Feb 23, 2012 8:42 am

mitch_f1 wrote:I could have just invented it... I mean I am not terribly knowledgable in the area, but surely there would be some lateral flex?

It might flex a bit but I don't imagine it would be more than 1mm. I think there's around 5mm clearance from the face of the flywheel to the bellhousing so it should be all good

Bizi wrote:It's getting to the most exciting moments of the build. Nice work so far.

Once you've worked out all of the fabricating, would you ever consider making a kit, based on what works? I think you might get some takers, since it's theoretically a great swap - just requiring one heck of a lot of step-by-step modding.

Good luck with the next steps.

Thanks Bizi, I've thought about making a kit but there are a HUGE number of custom parts. Just off the top of my head I'd need to make (or have made): the adapter plate, starter motor spacer, flywheel spacer, water pump pulley spacer, engine mount brackets, exhaust, intake manifold, sump, EGR adapter, charcoal cannister mount, coil pack mount, trigger wheel, throttle linkage...

I'd have to sell the kit for a lot of money to make it worth it. I doubt many people would decide to spend that much money for ~120rwkw when a cheap turbo setup will easily bypass that.

I've found a torsen diff with driveshafts and propshaft for sale with a set of rear NB8A brake calipers for $1,200. Is that a good deal? I was hoping to talk him down to $1,000 as it seems a little steep to me.

Beelzeboss · Postby **Beelzeboss** » Fri Feb 24, 2012 12:06 pm

Seems a bit quiet in this thread at the moment... is everyone else as frustrated as me that this is taking so long?

Yesterday I swapped over the MX-5 and MX-6 charcoal cannisters. All emissions gear from the MX-6 must be retained with the engine, luckily the two cannisters were almost identical.

You can see the only differences are the ring of holes in the top of the MX-6 one and the vent at the bottom is pointed in a different direction. All the lines hooked straight up with no problems.

I also did a bit more on the exhaust. I need to put the engine back in just to check clearances before I make the rest of the collector.

I had to hammer a bit of the tunnel where I'd marked the exhaust was going to be a close fit.

lightyear · Postby **lightyear** » Fri Feb 24, 2012 1:54 pm

I'd have to sell the kit for a lot of money to make it worth it. I doubt many people would decide to spend that much money for ~120rwkw when a cheap turbo setup will easily bypass that.

It does seem like a lot of effort for what could be achieved in one afternoon with a turbo kit on a standard 1.8. But if you want something special and unique - then your way is the way to go. It's good to see some people still giving it a go, and not simply ordering parts from a catalogue. The lessons you learn from doing this will stay with you forever. Good luck, and hope it goes well for you.