PLX Multigauge Discussion

[Lokiel]

I'm planning to install an oil cooler some time this year and while I'm at it, I may as well install oil temperature and pressure gauges - I replaced my "dummy" oil pressure gauge with a boost gauge so I don't have an oil pressure gauge in my car at all right now.

Gauges need to be readable and easily/quickly viewable so I'm not a fan of mounting them in the centre console since you need to take your eyes off the road to read them. I'd also have to get rid of my double-din stereo to accomodate them which I don't want to do either since it looks pretty damn good and works great.

I already have a SpeedHut Wideband AFR gauge mounted in a single pod on my A-pillar, which is mounted as low as possible; adding more pods to the A-pillar would look too "ricer" and attract unwanted attention from the "blue boys" so that's not an option either.

The PLX DM-100 multigauge (see http://www.plxdevices.com/multigauges.html) seems like a good solution for me, it can display up to 4 sensor values, including OBDII values, so I could replace my SpeedHut AFR Gauge in the A-Pillar with this gauge and display AFR, Oil pressure and Oil Temperature, plus another sensor or OBDII value, I'll probably use water temperature, maybe even add a water temperature gauge).

Unfortunately it seems that I would also need to use PLX Wideband O2 and oil pressure/temperature sensor kits (see http://www.plxdevices.com/sensormodules.html) to interface to the PLX multigauge. The PLX sensor kits are quite expensive and each has its own "box" so that adds an additional challenge of where to mount them. At this stage I'm thinking that my glovebox is going to fill quickly.

The advantage of the PLX Wideband O2 sensor is that it doesn't need periodic external calibration like my Innovate LC1 sensor does - this is quite a hassle since you need to remove the sensor from the downpipe to "fresh air" calibrate it and this is easiest done by removing the downpipe completely which a time-consuming job. I actually managed to install the sensor without removing the downpipe but that probably took longer than removing the downpipe completely (I did it this way because I didn't have long-enough extension bars to remove the downpipe at the time). This hassle alone makes it worth switching from my existing LC1 sensor.

So before I go ahead with this, I'd appreciate any feedback on PLX devices, the good, the bad and the ugly. Also, if anyone has other ideas on multi-gauges I'd like to hear them.

[deviant]

I do not know anything about the PLX system specifically but I would be interested to see what others might say. I hate a dash filled with gauges and I hate gauges without any warning system on them....you have to remember to look at them and you then have to look for the needle and make sure each one is in the right spot, completely useless on track. These single gauges are ideal.

Gtech do one as well but it looks to be a physically larger unit: http://www.gtechpro.com/egs.html

These SPA Design gauges are a neat solution: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorspor ... -auxiliary

If you are very serious you can go down the route of a proper dash display, this is just one of the many many brands to look at: http://www.haltech.com/index.php/produc ... aquisition

When I had my first turbo NA I was looking at going to a dash display, I wanted to fit some of the SPA Design gauges but as the car already has a Haltech ECU I did a bit of research and found that the dash display would not have been a great deal more expensive to have fitted and programmed but would have offered a lot more functionality.

[BadBong]

Lokiel - how often would you need to 'calibrate' the LC-1 sensor?

[Lokiel]

Lokiel - how often would you need to 'calibrate' the LC-1 sensor?

From the LC-1 manual:

4.3 Calibration Schedule
Normally aspirated daily driver:
- Calibrate before installation of new sensor
- Calibrate new sensor again after 3 month of use
- Thereafter calibrate once a year or every 20,000 miles, whichever comes first
Turbo car, daily driver (tuned rich):
- Calibrate before installation of new sensor
- Calibrate new sensor again after 3 month of use
- Thereafter calibrate twice a year or every 10,000 miles, whichever comes first
Race car
- Calibrate before first installation of new sensor
- Calibrate once per race weekend
Dyno use
- Calibrate a new sensor
- Calibrate every 2-3 days, depending on usage



Here's a couple of dodgy calibrations methods (not mine, cut&pasted from "the internets") that don't involve removing the sensor:
A free air calibration should be done on a somewhat regular basis or if the readings get wacky (like going full lean to
full rich... or just all over the place). There are two ways that I know to do a free air calibration without removing the
sensor. One, is to let the car sit for several hours, then turn the key to Acc. (not run), wait for the heater to heat the
sensor (LED goes solid) and then push the button. The other, is what I call, the Rolling Free Air Calibration (read this
somewhere... not my original idea... I just gave it a name). Find a nice hill that you can coast down. Get up some
speed, leave it in gear and turn the key back to Accessory (so the ignition is off, but the cig. lighter still has power).
Now floor it! This allows fresh air to pump through the motor and out the exhaust, and because the key is not in run,
the injectors are off. After about 10 seconds, push the button. After the LED goes back to solid, let off the gas, and turn
the key back to run, and the motor should be running, and you have a fresh calibration! If you can see your screen,
make note of what voltage the full lean voltage value is after the calibration and before you turn the key back on. If it is
different than 3.500 volts (mine was 3.48) then go back in the settings and make this the full lean voltage value. About
the best way to find the full rich value, is douse the removed sensor with a little gas

[BadBong]

LOL... the last method seems a bit too 'adventurous' for my liking... downhill with the car off?

[BadBong]

Hey Lokiel - sorry to go off topic before.

Have a read of these 2 wideband sensor comparison articles:

http://www.diyautotune.com/downloads/Wideband%20Shootout.pdf

http://www.evoscan.com/technical-vehicle-manuals/66-air-fuel-ratio-wideband-review

I'm looking for a AFR gauge + sensor combo as well and I've always thought that the LC-1 was the best bang for the buck...

[BadBong]

Also... given that quite a few drivers would have a double-din LCD screen now days, would there be a sensor out there that can output / display the readings via the LCD screen instead of using a gauge?... (like the GTR)

[Lokiel]

BadBong: The LC-1 sensor is probably one of the best "tried-and-tested" Wideband O2 sensors around but the required periodic fresh-air calibration is a pain in the arse.

As far as Double-DIN LCD display units go, if you could find one that supports Android, you could use Torque to display OBDII information and I don't doubt that it will be expanded to support external sensor inputs one day. The problem with Double-DIN displays is that you still need to drop your eyes off the road to read them.

[Aussie Stig]

I think you have to delineate your preferences re instant visibility and accommodation of instruments.

Of course you really should be looking at a race display in the instrument cluster. Ditch the KG works and have a dedicated LCD display.

[Lokiel]

I think you have to delineate your preferences re instant visibility and accommodation of instruments.

Of course you really should be looking at a race display in the instrument cluster. Ditch the KG works and have a dedicated LCD display.

"Ditch the KG works" - NOT going to happen!!!

- you're right though, a dedicated race instrument cluster is the way to go and I suspect in future, all instrument clusters will merely be digital displays that you can configure however you like and accept digital inputs from an OEM socket.

[greenMachine]

I think you have to delineate your preferences re instant visibility and accommodation of instruments.

Of course you really should be looking at a race display in the instrument cluster. Ditch the KG works and have a dedicated LCD display.

"Ditch the KG works" - NOT going to happen!!!

- you're right though, a dedicated race instrument cluster is the way to go and I suspect in future, all instrument clusters will merely be digital displays that you can configure however you like and accept digital inputs from an OEM socket.

http://www.racepak.com/Components/OBDII.php plugged into http://www.racepak.com/Components/IQ3_Display.php would do the trick, but see your treasurer/bank manager first

[BadBong]

Hey Lokiel, have a read of this:

http://adaptronic.com.au/products/innovate-mtx-l.html

"Built-in Direct Digital™ Wideband Controller reduces wiring and simplifies installation (No LC-1 required)"

How does that work....? And it's all for ~$200 too from a trusted Aus based supplier.

[Lokiel]

Hey Lokiel, have a read of this:

http://adaptronic.com.au/products/innovate-mtx-l.html

"Built-in Direct Digital™ Wideband Controller reduces wiring and simplifies installation (No LC-1 required)"

How does that work....? And it's all for ~$200 too from a trusted Aus based supplier.

That's an all-in-1 "LC-1 and gauge" unit; the gauge is a dedicated Wideband O2 gauge so it's not really what I need.

[tbro]

http://www.14point7.com/SLC-Pure-Plus-2.php

ave a read.

Tezza

[Lokiel]

^
Unfortunately it only displays one sensor at a time

I want to be able to see them ALL.