Anti-sieze for sparkplugs

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Tue Jan 03, 2012 4:05 pm

Silvia wrote:It's obvious that you don't have to use anti seize. and that it has been "around forever"
The Question is, is it good to use it?

To me this answers itself.

If the Anti Sieze is not necessary (presumably because it provides no benefit) it is a waste of money.

Silvia · Postby **Silvia** » Tue Jan 03, 2012 4:41 pm

"Using copper anti-seize compound on your spark plug is particularly advisable if your engine head is made of aluminum. It is not uncommon for dissimilar metals to cold-weld without proper precautions. Think of this as cheap insurance against costly head-work."

Is cheap insurance against costly head work necessary?
Individual choice I guess...

Pamex · Postby **Pamex** » Tue Jan 03, 2012 4:50 pm

I've been doing some reading on this topic today, as I have some spare time.

I don't use anti-seize on plugs. Like HKS, I change mine quite often and have never needed it, so I don't bother.

There seems to be some different trains of thought. I'll try and break them down in to for and against.

<b>Against Use</b>
1. As long as you don't over tighten spark plugs, you shouldn't require it.
2. Anti-seize compounds can reduce electrical conductivity, depending on the contents.
3. Anti-seize componds will reduce torque accuracy so go dry and torque the plugs to the correct strength instead. There is some suggestion that using anti-seize and then torqueing to the manufacturer's torque specification, where anti-seize isn't specified as required, can contribute to stripping threads and immediate and later damage as you'll be doing the spark plug up tighter than it should be.

I did see a comment of "anti-seize will reduce torque accuracy by 20%!!!!!" which I think was probably a magical figure pulled out of the proverbial. :lol:

<b>For Use</b>
1. As long as you only lightly coat the threads and don't have anti-seize practically dripping off, it will be fine.
2. I've used it for years, therefore it will be all ok (mostly these comments come from Ford forums, with additional comments about how Johnny's Sister's Brother's Dog's Father loves the stuff).

So then I had a look at the NGK and Bosch sites, as these are two commonly used spark plug brands in Australia. I have used both for some time.

Both NGK and Bosch recommend AGAINST using anti-seize with their spark plugs because of the coating they have.

An interesting side read: http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/conten ... kPlugs.pdf

I never have used it, but after my little foray into basic reading up on the topic here today, I doubt I'll be starting. I think I'll stick to my method of keep them clean, change them regularly and properly... and don't over-tighten them.

Silvia · Postby **Silvia** » Tue Jan 03, 2012 5:31 pm

I rang NGK tech dept. and they say their plugs do not require anti-seize.
An exception would be if plugs are removed and re-installed, as the protection coat breaks away on removal of plugs.
As I'm using NGK that seems like a clear answer, but it may not be true for other brands of course....

Hjt · Postby **Hjt** » Tue Jan 03, 2012 5:51 pm

On this forum, the way in which you ask questions is by "creating threads". Dann is actually pretty young, but that's beside the point.

I'm glad we have come to the conclusion.

Silvia · Postby **Silvia** » Tue Jan 03, 2012 6:40 pm

....and also, that "i" before "e" except after "c"
isn't always true :shock:

!
...as in seizing the last word :lol:

Postby **Okibi** » Wed Jan 04, 2012 1:52 am

Great research Pam, thanks for taking the time to share it here. :mrgreen:

Postby **Okibi** » Wed Jan 04, 2012 1:54 am

So who uses Dielectric Grease? :?:

manga_blue · Postby **manga_blue** » Wed Jan 04, 2012 10:00 am

Okibi wrote:So who uses Dielectric Grease?

Yep. It's useful for stopping corrosion inside the caps where the ignition leads connect to the coilpacks.

GP · Postby GP » Mon Jan 09, 2012 12:57 pm

Today's spark plugs do not need graphite or graphite lubricant on the thread. They are treated with an anti-seize lubricant. A seizure is not possible since the threads are nickel plated.

This makes no sense, "Todays spark plug threads are nickel plated" Who wrote this, Henry Ford?
If you've seen the Top Gear Middle East Challenge you will know the results of a stripped thread. If you don't want to use anti-sieze then atleast smear the thread in some engine oil.

hks_kansei · Postby **hks_kansei** » Mon Jan 09, 2012 1:03 pm

GP wrote:
Today's spark plugs do not need graphite or graphite lubricant on the thread. They are treated with an anti-seize lubricant. A seizure is not possible since the threads are nickel plated.

This makes no sense, "Todays spark plug threads are nickel plated" Who wrote this, Henry Ford?
If you've seen the Top Gear Middle East Challenge you will know the results of a stripped thread. If you don't want to use anti-sieze then atleast smear the thread in some engine oil.

Wouldn't a stipped thread be more to do with badly installing the plug? (ie: cross threading or over tightening)

I can't see how a plug could possibly cause the threads to strip if it got stuck.
At most, you'd possibly round the hex part of the plug.

Silvia · Postby **Silvia** » Mon Jan 09, 2012 1:41 pm

When seized in the head ,the plug simply pulls out the fine aluminium thread from the head instead of unscrewing. This then involves fitting steel threaded inserts into the head as replacement, for future plugs to screw into. Expensive job best avoided....
I think we've already established that NGK plugs have threads treated to avoid seizing.

GP · Postby GP » Mon Jan 09, 2012 1:46 pm

Generally the plugs been installed dry, left in too long and the thread is damaged when replacing the plugs. A few hundred k's later the thread lets go on the highway. This has happened to several old bikes i've owned. Even with NGK's
BTW If you overtighten a plug it would probably break before the thread stripped