NitroDann's Long Awaited Garage Thread

Guran · Postby **Guran** » Mon Dec 12, 2011 6:31 pm

I've done the front toe myself. Keen to see how you measure camber. :beer:

Postby **NitroDann** » Mon Dec 12, 2011 7:01 pm

Ill consider an instructional video on youtube.

Start with making sure the garage floor is level with the level, if not stack some tiles under the tyres.

Basically I use a string line the WHOLE way around the car, around the tyres at the height of the centreline of the tyres.

I then Turn the wheel straight and measure toe. For the front, if I had toe in, I would need to pull the string away from the tyre at the front until it was JUST touching the rear of the tyre still and measure how far I had to pull it to measure toe on that wheel.
For the rear I do the same, but of course you need to pull the string away from the rear if i have toe out.

Camber is measured by holding a level vertically next to the wheel, using the floor to keep the bottom still. I then measure the distance between the level and the wheel at the top and bottom. The difference between measurements is what you use to calculate camber.

From there jack an end up put your jack stands under the furthest outward point on the lower suspension arms.
This will 90% simulate actual ride height which is PLENTY close enough for adjusting toe. As long as the string remains centred on the wheels toe can be measured with either end of the car in the air.

For camber you will need to drop the car down to check its spot on.

Make sense?

Dann

Postby **NitroDann** » Mon Dec 12, 2011 7:22 pm

Taking photos now

Dann

Postby **NitroDann** » Sun Dec 25, 2011 10:38 am

Gday,

Looking to sell my 16x7 SSR Professors.

They have a few bumps and scrapes. Anyone with experience know whether I should repaint them and get the dents fixed, or is it more cost effective to just sell them as is?

Dann

Apu · Postby **Apu** » Sun Dec 25, 2011 1:53 pm

Personally, I think there's value in selling as is. The buyer can see the extent of repair, and pick their own colour.

Postby **NitroDann** » Sun Dec 25, 2011 2:09 pm

Perhaps. They are about 700 each new... Ill PM some people pics and work out a reasonable price.

Dann

Postby **NitroDann** » Tue Jan 03, 2012 9:27 pm

Dude... Just hit my PM inbox limit....

Do I have to delete them all?

Dann

Apu · Postby **Apu** » Tue Jan 03, 2012 9:47 pm

What? Has that even happened before? Haha!

Postby **Okibi** » Wed Jan 04, 2012 1:34 am

NitroDann wrote:Dude... Just hit my PM inbox limit....

Do I have to delete them all?

Dann

Just the ones you don't need. Think it's set to 1000 messages.

lightyear · Postby **lightyear** » Wed Jan 04, 2012 7:50 am

I am looking at doing the wheel alignment too. I have a book on doing it, and it doesn't look too hard. I gave the guy that just did mine the specs i wanted and he actually put 2mm toe out on the rear. As for inbox being full, i just delete the oldest couple of pages. Mine fills up fairly often. I sell to many things.

Postby **Boyracer** » Wed Jan 04, 2012 8:45 am

I've been doing my own wheel alignments for a long time, just with the string and a spirit level, ended up buying a Longacre caster/ camber guage.

Works well once you get used to doing it.

spikes · Postby **spikes** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:16 pm

spikes · Postby **spikes** » Tue Jan 10, 2012 11:20 pm

^^ dann's reroute with a Begi spacer, he'll elaborate the installation once he gets a chance

Postby **NitroDann** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 5:51 pm

Quick update on what Ive been up to.

Im currently building a full turbo setup, including steampipe manifold, dump pipe and full exhaust. And some cooler piping.

First some poor phone pictures of some recent work, this was on dweezles car, His thread can be viewed here: http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=42431&start=75

Along with some other random work.

Some photos of dweezles setup:

Lobster back welds, as seen in the above post, for coolant reroute, trust me, they look great in real life, its the camera!:

Steampipe for a turbo manifold building:

Garrett T25 and 3" V Band dump in the early stages:

3" exhaust for above turbo build, full mandrel 3", has a 3" magnaflow catalytic convertor not shown in pics, as well as the 14 inch straight through resonator you can see. With that HUGE dump, and the fantastic angle on it (compare it to dweezles dump pipe, it has to be like that for the greddy turbo location) it will spool so hard:

In the above pic, compare the exhaust diameter to that of a standard 1kg fire extinguisher (red and to the right)!

Tack weld, being mild steel, you dont get the nice pretty colours sorry:

this shape and design is about the straightest most free flowing design possible in an mx5 with a factory exhaust outlet location. Im pretty happy with it, shame it doesnt look as cool as an exhaust with heaps of unnecessary bends!

The straight section made of a few short pieces will be replaced with a single piece, its still a mock up, 99% done just needs that piece replaced and full TIG welding, just tacked right now:

I used patrick bramstons car to mock the exhaust up on while I had its exhaust off for some work:

This tiny Garrett turbo is brand new, made in the 80's! its for an ET pulsar (1.5L turbo) and is good for around 160rwhp, should make full boost by 2000rpm, stick that in your sports exhaust and smoke it, supercharger crowd!

The v Bands on the 3" exhaust.

For anyone who wants to know, yes the exhaust is being painted, it will all get a couple coats of VHT 1000+*c manifold paint to seal it.

Cheers,
Dann

tinsfci · Postby **tinsfci** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:13 pm

Dann,

Got any pics of where the turbo water lines are attached? I presume the rear is into the reroute spacer or heater line, but where is the front (low) line attached? The current set up in my race car has the lines going all over the shop and I am not convinced it will allow water to heat siphon after the engine is off.

Cheers