Gear changes a bit crunchy.....

[Basho]

Most interesting. I wonder what has rusted to cause difficult gear changes.

Got me stuffed too I had a Triumph TR6 that had the same reluctant to change symptoms but it was the clutch master seals , I still cringe when I think of the replacement cost, I'll take picks of the bits and post next week when the job is dome.

[JBT]

I have difficulty understanding what could be rusted other than the pressure plate. Low mileage use won't rust the pressure plate but water immersion will.

If the clutch isn't slipping then the friction plate is not worn out. If you can select any gear when the car is stopped with the engine running without grinding gears then the release system is working.

If the gears grind or you have real trouble getting it into gear in the case above, look at the release system - hydraulics and the release lever movement. If they check out satisfactory, then it is possible that you have a stuffed throw out bearing, stuffed release lever/lever fulcrum or stuffed pressure plate release fingers which means the gearbox will have to come off.

The other possibility is a stuffed selector system in the upper gearbox area.

[Basho]

Absolutely agree , I have no idea realy why both Mazda and Mr Transmissions came up with the same solution totaly independantly unless this is the diagnosers reply when they don't know ,--aaaaarr well, we'll change the clutch , see if that fixe's it--'' hardy-har me hartys''.

Mr Transmissions elaborated by saying that even though the clutch was not slipping it was adjusted out to the max and was 'stuffed', he also said that the gearbox was fine and said the clutch was responsible for the hard changes.(Ditto Mazda)

I only know that the first 18 years of it's life it was owned by a lady doctor who serviced it reasonably regularly and for the last two years an irresposible dick weed that who serviced it once and ignored the diagnosed rooted 02 sensor for twelve months and that it sat around for at least 3 months prior to me buying it.

I also know that the clutch pushrod is near max adjust in and the pedal near max adjust out.

I'm not concerned as long as the clutch replace is the fix , I'll be dirty if it aint , Mazda are doing the job the same as the previous work ,

I had budgeted $2k to bring all the mechanicals up to scratch and hoped for change , I'm now on the wrong side of that by about $700 when the clutch is done ---- thats what I need .

It'll be worth it , it's a fine car except for these few bits.

[JBT]

...I also know that the clutch pushrod is near max adjust in and the pedal near max adjust out...

I don't understand this. Are you talking about pedal free play and height? Those are the only clutch system adjustments available. However, the pushrod does not go in or out to adjust. With the problem you have, the pushrod end (pedal end) would need to be adjusted outwards and the pedal height maybe a bit higher but, only within the OEM adjustment limits.

Anyway, good luck with the fix.

[NitroDann]

They probably both want to replace the clutch because then you are paying them enough to have a proper look at the clutch release mechanisms.

Dann

[Basho]

double post

[Basho]

...I also know that the clutch pushrod is near max adjust in and the pedal near max adjust out...

I don't understand this. Are you talking about pedal free play and height? Those are the only clutch system adjustments available. However, the pushrod does not go in or out to adjust. With the problem you have, the pushrod end (pedal end) would need to be adjusted outwards and the pedal height maybe a bit higher but, only within the OEM adjustment limits.

Anyway, good luck with the fix.[/quote]

Thanks I'm starting to think I'm needin some.

OK, the push rod adjusts and the pedal adjusts, if you raise the pedal hight then adjust the lash with the pushrod to give the right clearance at the master cylinder I supose that you will have introduced more stroke into pedal and this, I'm guesing, enables you to squeeze a bit more clearance out of a worn clutch

The car came with the pedal set up about 15mm high from correct with a lot of freeplay which I removed by resetting the pushrod , slight improvement aaaaarg just.

[Basho]

They probably both want to replace the clutch because then you are paying them enough to have a proper look at the clutch release mechanisms.Dann

You're probably right , in any event the gearbox would have to come out I'm guessing and the labour would be near the same either way. so at twenty years old and 80000ks up and only $240.00 at my door for an Excedy clutch kit inc spigot bearing I'll cop it sweet, and even + the $69.00 mazzy oil seal and I'm still good,

But jeez it better be right

[Aussie Stig]

They probably both want to replace the clutch because then you are paying them enough to have a proper look at the clutch release mechanisms.Dann

You're probably right , in any event the gearbox would have to come out I'm guessing and the labour would be near the same either way. so at twenty years old and 80000ks up and only $240.00 at my door for an Excedy clutch kit inc spigot bearing I'll cop it sweet, and even + the $69.00 mazzy oil seal and I'm still good,

But jeez it better be right

Dann you cynical old bastard, unfortunately you are right. A mechanics diagnosis is often no more than a best guess scenario in these situations...$$$$ spent with NO guarantees.

Live with the 'problem' with a while, maybe a year. It doesn't sound you have had the car long. Use the opportunity to give the clutch a bit of a wellie consistent with fun driving until it fails. This mysterious 'rust'/clutch problem might free itself up by itself.

I can't see you buying the car in the first place if the gearbox was so horrible.

[Basho]

They probably both want to replace the clutch because then you are paying them enough to have a proper look at the clutch release mechanisms.Dann

You're probably right , in any event the gearbox would have to come out I'm guessing and the labour would be near the same either way. so at twenty years old and 80000ks up and only $240.00 at my door for an Excedy clutch kit inc spigot bearing I'll cop it sweet, and even + the $69.00 mazzy oil seal and I'm still good,

But jeez it better be right

Dann you cynical old bastard, unfortunately you are right. A mechanics diagnosis is often no more than a best guess scenario in these situations...$$$$ spent with NO guarantees.

Live with the 'problem' with a while, maybe a year. It doesn't sound you have had the car long. Use the opportunity to give the clutch a bit of a wellie consistent with fun driving until it fails. This mysterious 'rust'/clutch problem might free itself up by itself.

I can't see you buying the car in the first place if the gearbox was so horrible.

Spot on , because I've never come across this exact issue before I'm erring on the side of caution, the gear shift wasn't bad enough to put me off buying the car but it is moody enough to go for a fix before waiting for a break.

I have to be realistic the car is 20 years old, it has terriffic origional paint , mechanicals , interior, new tyres, brakes newly done, new soft top (cheapy, so what, it's new) and only 80000klm/2 owners, no accidents , totaly unmodified, -ever, full 6months rego I expected to put $2k into it as I knew a couple of sensors were shot and that the timing belt/water pump fandango hadn't been done and was on track except for this sortable clutch gearshift issue, I paid $8k for the car, even if sets me back another grand I still reckon I'll be in front for what I'll /actualy have.

Others may disagree

[Silvia]

What, here never!!

[NitroDann]

Remember I used to be a mechanic.
Im familiar with job job quotes go.

The ONLY way to check all the clutch adjustments and mechanisms is to take the engine out, unbolt the box and do it the hard way. The mechanic quotes for a clutch replacement at 800 bucks, while he is there he finds whats whong with the bearings/fork/pivot etc and fixes it for you. In reality you cannot get a customer to commit to 6 hours labour to check is the fork is bent but because clutch almost makes sense to the laymen telling him/her that it needs a new clutch is an easy sell at 800 bucks.

Then he pulls the engine and box out, checks it all out, replaces the clutch, tells you he did all the extra stuff, which he did, then the car is still bad.

He charges extra for some fancy $60/L fluid he pays $11/L for and tells you that everything has been done and in a week the fluid will soak in and fix it.

That or he finds a bent fork etc and looks like a hero.

Dann

[Aussie Stig]

Remember I used to be a mechanic....... No shittin'


Which all makes sense, I would flog it until the clutch fails, then go in for the big overhaul.

Just take it easy on second gear.

Here's a secret - gearknobs do make a difference. Try a few out, you might be surprised.

[Basho]

Remember I used to be a mechanic....... No shittin'
Which all makes sense, I would flog it until the clutch fails, then go in for the big overhaul.
Just take it easy on second gear.
Here's a secret - gearknobs do make a difference. Try a few out, you might be surprised.

Heavier ?--any particular recomendations ?

[93_Clubman]

Heavier ?--any particular recomendations ?

There was a noticeably heavier/ weighted NA6 gearknob in the same style as the original NA6 one.

http://autospeed.com/cms/title_How-Heav ... ticle.html