What to look for buying an MX-5 - Which should I buy?

[Bizi]

Can anyone add info about 'too good to be true' cars?
Such as cars priced below market value because they were repairable writeoffs (how much should be demanded as a discount, if any, to similar non writeoff cars)?
Maybe I should first ask - is there any existing guide to buying such cars? The one I spotted on carsales is that cheap blue NC which the seller is a flood damaged repairable writeoff, which he repaired himself.

Thanks. I am not too keen to go down that road but it has very low ks and is aroudn $6k less than most others.

There are some really nice alternatives out there but starting realistically at least $5k more than this dodgy one.

[devski]

Can anyone add info about 'too good to be true' cars?
Such as cars priced below market value because they were repairable writeoffs (how much should be demanded as a discount, if any, to similar non writeoff cars)?
Maybe I should first ask - is there any existing guide to buying such cars? The one I spotted on carsales is that cheap blue NC which the seller is a flood damaged repairable writeoff, which he repaired himself.

Thanks. I am not too keen to go down that road but it has very low ks and is aroudn $6k less than most others.

There are some really nice alternatives out there but starting realistically at least $5k more than this dodgy one.

There is a bit of info here on the worry with flood damaged car.
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=45984&hilit=flood+damage
Its a gamble and you never really know.

Can I also add to anyone looking at buying to check the heater. My heater didnt work, turns out the heater core was bypassed because its pissing out with engine coolant.
$1500 later I might have a heater.

[PaulF]

Can I also add to anyone looking at buying to check the heater. My heater didnt work, turns out the heater core was bypassed because its pissing out with engine coolant.
$1500 later I might have a heater.

Our MGB GT had exactly the same issue with the heater, with exactly the same "fix". Might get properly fixed one day.

[ralt]

Hi.
Always pull the left front carpet up and check for any water damage. If they leak it is usually in the left hand side where the computer box is.

[NitroDann]

Hang on...

1500 for a heater?

What?

Dann

[mxfive95]

lol i just deleted my post thinking it was a normal thread not a sticky lol
um what to look for well i still think those racv checks are pretty honest and well spent.

I don't! I got the full check and they gave me the all clear and that the car was in top shape engine down on comp in cylinders 2+3, chasis rails scraped, interior lights, cigi lighter, electric arial and electric mirrors didn't work, windscreen unroadworthy(severely scratched from wipper use) and to top it off the place where it got a roadworthy was a sponsor to a certain club magazine....
Lets just say if I had my time again and I'd known about this forum, i would definately have gone on a couple of social meets and asked for someones advice opinion.
So if your looking at purchasing an mx5, come down to the garage cafe on a thursday night in melbourne where your sure to find someone to chew there ears off.

Cheers Craig

[mxfive95]

Some info I found useful in looking for my MX-5.

Short nose crank, mainly affects 89-90 cars. Not really a huge problem, over hyped via the internet. You can tell by looking at the front pully, short has 4 slots, big 8. Read this http://www.miata.net/garage/crankshaft.html
Problems usually occur after a cam belt change so ensure you get it done by someone who knows about the crank.

Otherwise mechanically MX-5's are pretty well bullet proof, but keep in mind they are up to 18 years old. If your tall and haven't sat in one yet, go and do it you'll be surprised how much room they actually have.

Check for accident damage, bad repairs, underbody damage, a few cars I saw had dodgy re-sprays.

Look out for extras and modifications as generally cars with mods sell for similar prices to standard cars.

Be aware that there are a lot of imported MX5's around, these are mainly early (89-90) MX5's. There is nothing wrong with having an import just be aware.

I found it useful to do as much research and reading around this forum and others. Also ask questions!

Look and drive as many as you can so you get a good feeling for what mx-5's are about

My advice is to just buy one and once purchased be prepared to smile a lot more than usual

Great advice Ben. Something I should have done when buying but got impatient and bought the red shiney one Still a great car though

[93_Clubman]

In regard to the Short nose crank issue, The US link mentions these numbers:

If you have a 1991 with VIN 209447 or more, you're safe. If your Miata is a 1990 or 1991 with VIN 209446 or less, you have a crankshaft with a smaller diameter nose. (Note: according to Mazda, the European spec MX-5 breakpoint is at 127442.)

Are those numbers generated from the last 6 numbers of the vin or the first after the letter prefix?

Say for example the vin 7A8C11D0799125200. Should I be reading that number as 079912? or 125200?

Also does anyone have any concrete vin numbers for Australian delivered cars (considering there's a bit of a leap between European and American numbers?

Last six digits indicate production number, whereas the beginning of the VIN indicates production details like vehicle type, location etc.

From memory, don't think Australain delivered VIN range for IDing SNC or LNC has been posted, but our VINs were:
Australian delivered NA6 1989 (version 1) VIN: JM0NA306100100XXX
Australian delivered NA6 1992 (version 2) VIN: JM0NA306200100XXX

Which reflected:
MX5 1.6 B6 motor 08/1989-08/1992: JM0NA306100100001 to 200000
MX5 1.6 B6 motor 08/1992-09/1993: JM0NA306200200001 to 210000

Best guide has been LNC was intro'd during 1991 & then physically check to see whether motor has a 4 or 8 slot pulley:
viewtopic.php?f=29&t=45396

[TonyMax]

If you look at an MX-5 radiator the top and bottom parts are made of plastic while the cooling fins are metal.



The large plastic piece visible; that the radiator cap screws into is the "top tank". The plastic starts as black but gets more and more brown over the years. As JBT says, watch out for an OEM radiator that's turned brown, or even slight whitish faded marks OR has obviously been painted black.

(I'll try and find a photo of a cracked one)

Will this do?



Yes this happened at the race track most likely under full noise and is quite catastrophic, but you get the message about what happens with plastic radiator tanks when they fail. Plastic + heat + hot water under pressure straight from water pump = bang..

[Jeo]

Assuming that's Ian's NB it wasn't actually the radiator that failed (initially). Head gasket blew pressurising the water system.

[TonyMax]

Hmm yeah that would do it.

It's the green NB that got dropped off at Carco after last Wakefield day.

[Jeo]

That's the one.

[klvru]

Hi Guys

I am new to the MX-5 club and I'm planning to change my 2009 MY 10 Mitsubishi Lancer (approx 40k km)to a 2005 MX-5 NC series, it has done approx 84k km.

Just wondering what are your thought on it? And what is the service interval and how much it cost, as well as the running cost of the car?

I will only be driving the car for 2 years, and instead of modding the lancer I'm thinking of getting the mx-5. Lastly, what to look out since it has already done 84k.

This is the one that I am eyeing on!

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?Cr=5&R=11360397&keywords=&trecs=10&__sid=12F7A13C3F5A&__Ns=pCar_RankSort_Int32|1||pCar_PriceSort_Decimal|1||pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&__Qpb=1&__Nne=15&SearchAction=N&seot=1&__N=1216%201247%201252%201282%204294963961%204294965340%20900%204294775462%201622&silo=1011

P.S Can I change it to a hardtop?

[TurBIce]

Has their been problems we should be looking out for in regards to NC model?' 2005 +?

[93_Clubman]

Has their been problems we should be looking out for in regards to NC model?' 2005 +?

Yes - see Mazda Techincal Service Bulletins starting with 09-001/06 here: http://www.miata.net:80/garage/tsb/