Emily's 04 VR SE
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- Speed Racer
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Re: Emily's 1990 V-Special Eunos Roadster
When I had the 595s on my car, I found 30+ psi too hard. Steve at Mania suggested 26psi as well.
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- Speed Racer
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Re: Emily's 1990 V-Special Eunos Roadster
Your car doesn't need better brakes anyways, good pads and fluid are all that you need.
- broady
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Re: Emily's 1990 V-Special Eunos Roadster
NA8 brakes are a cheap upgrade. same calipers, just a different caliper bracket - the advantage are bigger pads.
人馬一体 NA8
Tein SS, Torsen T2, BD, Maxim Works→RS*R, ARC, Koyo, SSR, Sparco, Flyin' Miata & bling!
6/5/2010
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- Racing Driver
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Re: Emily's 1990 V-Special Eunos Roadster
They set them to 45psi, which was too hard and bouncy for me. I now have them comfortably at 38psi.
ooooooppppssss i meant to say 28psi not 38 haha.
NA8 brakes are a cheap upgrade. same calipers, just a different caliper bracket - the advantage are bigger pads.
Sounds good, I need new front pads anyway. This might be the next thing I do
- Guran
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Re: Emily's 1990 V-Special Eunos Roadster
Don't waste your money on an NA8 brake upgrade that you won't even notice. I have never experienced brake fade with my stock NA6 brakes despite the serious punishment I give them on the track. I reckon you'll be fine with your stock NA6 brakes. Just fit a decent set of pads and fluid: try Hawk HP+ pads and Castrol Response Super fluid for a cheap but effective setup.
Standard 2006 NC - YouTube
WP 1:11.89 | SMP-S 1:05.90 GP 1:54.93 N 1:18.09 L 2:22.49 | PW 1:02.52
PI 2:00.55 | W-S 1:12.44 W-L 1:43.36 | SR 1:33.25
WP 1:11.89 | SMP-S 1:05.90 GP 1:54.93 N 1:18.09 L 2:22.49 | PW 1:02.52
PI 2:00.55 | W-S 1:12.44 W-L 1:43.36 | SR 1:33.25
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- Speed Racer
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Re: Emily's 1990 V-Special Eunos Roadster
^^ I'm glad you agree, esp since its not a race car.
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- Speed Racer
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Re: Emily's 1990 V-Special Eunos Roadster
Yep, another vote for no need to upgrade the brakes. The NA6 brakes are more than adequate for road use, and with good pads and fluid will be sufficient for a club track day too.
As for tyre pressures, it does depend somewhat on the particular tyres as to what's best for performance, but in this case if you're somewhere in the low to mid 30's range you should be fine. Experiment though and see where you find the best comfort/performance compromise. I have 205/45/16 Michelin PP2's on mine, and have them set at 36psi cold.
As for tyre pressures, it does depend somewhat on the particular tyres as to what's best for performance, but in this case if you're somewhere in the low to mid 30's range you should be fine. Experiment though and see where you find the best comfort/performance compromise. I have 205/45/16 Michelin PP2's on mine, and have them set at 36psi cold.
Pain is temporary, quitting lasts forever.
- PaulF
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Re: Emily's 1990 V-Special Eunos Roadster
mx5_vse wrote:Regarding tyre pressures, I would ask those who are running similar suspension and, importantly, the same tyres.
Ok so, if anyone has a 1990 NA with stock suspension on 16" (lightweight) rims with Federal 595 tyres (205/45/16), could you please advise me a good tyre pressure
You might be surprised. All NA stock suspension is pretty much the same, and similar to NB suspension. And the 595's are a pretty popular tyre.
- dave2221
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Re: Emily's 1990 V-Special Eunos Roadster
Apu wrote:dave2221 wrote:26psi?
i am running close to 40psi in my tyres....
its a firmer ride, BUT gives yyou more even tyre wear, and reduces the risk of damaging the rim.
How can over-inflating the tyres give you "more even tyre wear"?
Like this:
Due to me running a 17" lower profile tyre (SE) i can use slightly higher than normal pressure, to protect the side walls too.
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Alternator
So the car started humming when it warmed up.
Then it started whining when it warmed up.
Then it started whining all the time.
Bummer, the alternator is dying :/
So I called a local mazda dealer, and he said it would cost $1800 for a new one. I said “pardon” at least 3 times haha.
After several hours of research I ordered a new aftermarket one, for around $320 including delivery from UK.
I did manage to take the old one out, replace both the alternator belt and the powersteer/aircon belt, and put the new alternator in, but it was tricky and took a whole day.
After merging about 5 different sets of instructions, this is what I did.
Remove alternator:
Disconnect negative battery terminal.
Pulled off radiator hose and plugged hole to avoid coolant spillage (see picture).
Removed plastic air intake pipe for more room.
Unplug alternator.
“Slacken swivel bolt”...
Realise this rather essential bolt was missing; trip to Mania to get new bolt + nut.
Slacken adjuster bolt and lift from bracket.
Remove old and broken alternator.
Remove belts:
Slacken bolt A and nuts B & C.
Back off adjustor bolt D and remove belts.
Tension of new belts should be about 8-9mm deflection.
Replace alternator & belts - do everything in reverse but with new stuff
Now this is professional...
Then it started whining when it warmed up.
Then it started whining all the time.
Bummer, the alternator is dying :/
So I called a local mazda dealer, and he said it would cost $1800 for a new one. I said “pardon” at least 3 times haha.
After several hours of research I ordered a new aftermarket one, for around $320 including delivery from UK.
I did manage to take the old one out, replace both the alternator belt and the powersteer/aircon belt, and put the new alternator in, but it was tricky and took a whole day.
After merging about 5 different sets of instructions, this is what I did.
Remove alternator:
Disconnect negative battery terminal.
Pulled off radiator hose and plugged hole to avoid coolant spillage (see picture).
Removed plastic air intake pipe for more room.
Unplug alternator.
“Slacken swivel bolt”...
Realise this rather essential bolt was missing; trip to Mania to get new bolt + nut.
Slacken adjuster bolt and lift from bracket.
Remove old and broken alternator.
Remove belts:
Slacken bolt A and nuts B & C.
Back off adjustor bolt D and remove belts.
Tension of new belts should be about 8-9mm deflection.
Replace alternator & belts - do everything in reverse but with new stuff
Now this is professional...
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- Speed Racer
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Re: Emily's 1990 V-Special Eunos Roadster
Nice work, One day I had my NA up in the air and noticed the long bolt on the lower side of my alternator completely missing. I figure it's somewhere in the national park, probably propping up a native animals shelter.
- Suspense
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Re: Alternator
mx5_vse wrote:So I called a local mazda dealer, and he said it would cost $1800 for a new one. I said “pardon” at least 3 times haha.
After several hours of research I ordered a new aftermarket one, for around $320 including delivery from UK.
Is Hornsby Mazda your local? I had some ridiculously expensive quotes from them for my 323 over the years.
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- Racing Driver
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Re: Emily's 1990 V-Special Eunos Roadster
Is Hornsby Mazda your local?
Nah, I think I called Artarmon, but either way genuine Mazda is superrr pricey.
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- Racing Driver
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- Location: Sydney
Re: Emily's 1990 V-Special Eunos Roadster
Style Bars
(Its not a race car so doesn't need BD roll bar or the like.)
Got them from a fellow forumer, absolute bargain
Polished stainless steel, apparently from Japan, so JDM points
yay for non-standard badges
(Its not a race car so doesn't need BD roll bar or the like.)
Got them from a fellow forumer, absolute bargain
Polished stainless steel, apparently from Japan, so JDM points
yay for non-standard badges
- -alex
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Re: Emily's 1990 V-Special Eunos Roadster
Bd bar will save you head if a 4wd rear ends you. These offer little to no protection in an accident.
Personally I'm all for something to keep me from being extra squished.
Personally I'm all for something to keep me from being extra squished.
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