My Backyard Paintjob

[slug_dub]

You can give the lights a sanding all the way up to 2000 grit, removing all the raised moulded text and then polish to make them super smooth and shiny

Seeing the excellent result with acrylics here GP, is making me consider painting my car myself!

[ralt]

Hi.
No need to use cutters on lenses. Use brasso- cheap and very effective.

[Mr Morlock]

I have heard the Brasso thing before and it is not a good idea. That product is essentially for polishing brass not plastic or a painted surface. A light automotive polish will have no deleterious effects.

[NitroDann]

If it works whats the issue?

Dann

[Mr Morlock]

the issue is that using a wrong product can have unsought consequences. Brasso, Silvo or any specific cleaner have ingredients that can react with a substrate not necessarily immediately. I well recall a problem with stress cracking raised by a car company of PC which after some analysis ( well beyond the home handyman) which demonstrated not a fault with the moulding material or moulding process but with a cleaning agent used for prepping cars before delivery to customers.Subsequently an alert went out not to use that product.

I am one of those people that actually read labels and see what are the recommendations for use. I have also been caught out using the wrong approach to cleaning by using the wrong product. The right polish is easy to buy and not expensive.

[ralt]

Hi.
Oh dear dont want to start a tizzie I was advising on a product i have used for 40 odd years and have never had acrylic or perspex deteriorate . Use brasso for cleaning/ polishing acrylic/perspex/alloy-great when used with wet and dry paper only on actual bare alloy /hard water stains on glass-its one of those products which is suitable for a multitude of uses and has been around for a very long time and i guess its a turn off to some because it is cheap and not sold as an automotive product.

[Mr Morlock]

ralt is probably right based on his experience. In the old days there was not a lot of specialist products eg using boot polish for vinyl tops and tooth paste for perspex but there are better solutions. Brasso is a metal polish for brass, copper, pewter, chrome ,stainless steel steel and zinc- and it is very useful- there is no mention of plastics.

[Steampunk]

Hang on guys, you missed the reason why slug suggested sanding.

You can give the lights a sanding all the way up to 2000 grit, removing all the raised moulded text and then polish... !

[GP]

Did you do it like Billbunter, in a home made spray booth after lots of detailed preparation?

No, Just did it out in the weather which added a couple of weeks because of rain wind etc.

How many colour red's did it have on it? Mine has 3.

Front left guard had 5 different colours The rest of it only had a whisker of paint left, Didn't take much rubbing down.

How did you get those taillights so glossy?

Filed the raised writing off, Then polished with brasso as I always have on plastic. Did buy some plastic polish and redid them, They maybe marginally shinier.
Thank for the positive remarks, I was expecting someone to mention that it needs lowering now but this will have to wait
I have painted several motorbikes and one car before. This is the first time i've used clear over the colour and the difficulty was increased twofold as well as the time it takes. I suggest to those people who want to do this themselves that unless you have some experience I would not try it on your pride and joy. Practice on something else first

[GP]

Here's a rundown on the materials bought, Of course some of the polishes etc. were only partly used but it all adds up.
Sanding Blocks---------6.89
Sandpaper-------------25.17
Masking Products------68.86
Body Filler-------------12.99
Blade putty------------17.99
5L Primer Filler----------85.98
2L Prepwash------------24.78
24L Thinners-----------159.96
2 Pouring Lids----------6.00
Paint Strainers---------2.00
3L Acrylic Red---------150.00
6L Acrylic Clear--------114.00
Cutting Compound-----20.00
Plastic Polish----------21.99
Vinyl Cleaner VLR------25.99
Swirl Remover---------25.99
Total---------------$768.59

[Mr Morlock]

Certainly doing the job yourself is something that few of us undertake and painting and preparation can be very time consuming. I was really surprised at the cost of raw materials and would never have guessed that amount. How much product remains unused- presumably a professional has little waste as a thinners etc is used on other products. In the old days everyone used acrylic and it looks good but no where near as durable as later generations. It makes 100% sense to select acrylic for a home job. Well done.

[JBT]

Looks like an excellent job GP. I envy your skills.

[GP]

How much product remains unused-

I couldn't do all the painting in 1 day and you use quite a bit of thinners to clean the gun out after each use which explains the 24 litres. The amount of colour and clear is about right though, I put heaps on
No comments on the fact that I removed all that ugly textured paint on the bottom half. I also decided not to paint the black along the bottom. I know I'm going to get stone chips but I prefer the look of it being all red

[JBT]

I know I'm going to get stone chips but I prefer the look of it being all red

It looks much better that way than the original black band on the sill. Gives the car a bit of a lowered look. I never really notice the original "bubble wrap" paint on the lower door areas though.

[slug_dub]

If you sand off the stone chip stuff along the botton half in prep, is there something you could use before paint to put it on anew?