billybunters - from a bmw z4 to a mx5 se

billybunter · Postby **billybunter** » Sun Sep 11, 2011 7:01 pm

the sandpaper after almost completing the full rub back of the bonnet. this brand is norton but later i will show two lots of paper and how one brand just falls apart, has no cutting power and not worth the trouble buying. ......... and it;s the same price.
if you wonder why i go on about quality sandpaper - once you experience a full 20 hour rub back on a car you will get the message and quick.

billybunter · Postby **billybunter** » Mon Sep 12, 2011 4:37 pm

under side of the bonnet

primer on

underside of boot lid prior to the primer

primer on

got a bit of help rubbing off the clear from the daughter in exchange foe a run with the spray gun. won't bother showing the paint run but its pretty close to the gun

bonnet and boot now primed on both sides.

that's it for today .......had enough!

red devil · Postby **red devil** » Mon Sep 12, 2011 8:15 pm

I wish my neighbours were as forgiving as yours! they wont let me paint in my front yard

Solid effort though! keep it up

billybunter · Postby **billybunter** » Mon Sep 12, 2011 8:34 pm

yeah, i put up with next doors 3 barking dogs with no complaints - so a bit of spray paint is more a payback :wink:

billybunter · Postby **billybunter** » Tue Sep 13, 2011 5:18 pm

doing the fine line taping prior to priming

rear end primed

left right side primed. underneath all areas covered by browm masking paper is two layers of plastic sheeting to avoid overspray on the work

billybunter · Postby **billybunter** » Tue Sep 13, 2011 5:29 pm

the main body now ready for a complete rub back using 600 wet/dry sandpaper to obtain a mirror smooth finish for the top coat
prior to the top coat all the old masking paper and tape will be removed and re-applied with fresh clean paper.
reason for this extra work is quite simple - once the paint spray dries on the paper it will set. when you apply pressure from the paint gun over your work the old paint will crack and blow paint flakes all over your new work.
ive got out of this work if i prime and top coat in the same day but if it's later better to start re-papering again.

davidau · Postby **davidau** » Tue Sep 13, 2011 6:25 pm

This is the true spirit of restoring a classic motor vehicle...making good progress everyday!!

PaulF · Postby **PaulF** » Tue Sep 13, 2011 7:23 pm

davidau wrote:This is the true spirit of restoring a classic motor vehicle...making good progress everyday!!

Really? My experience with working on classic (read: old) cars has usually been one of spending all day working and feeling like you haven't achieved anything at the end of the day. :lol:

billybunter · Postby **billybunter** » Tue Sep 13, 2011 8:11 pm

here's a bit of info on the SE

begi cold air intake
begi throttle body tube
begi dump pipe
forge diverter valve
electronic boost gauge
turbosmart mbc on 12 pound boost
re-chipped computer
short shifter gear stick
2.5 " exhaust system
15" alloy wheels
new paint job

parts waiting on completion of spray
b/d roll bar
head and tail light covers
large side sills
large rear mud -flaps

hows it go
pretty quick i think. prior to the pull down- driving along a wet road i swung the tail out with wheelspin in 3rd

hows it compare to the swag of europeans ive had lately.

it would beat the porsche boxster in power - but not through corners. porsche boxster was apart from an alfasud ti ( in the 70's was classed as the best handling small car in the world) best car i drove for a while

how's it compare to bmw's

z4
was a complete let-down and it only had 26,000klm on the clock. the guy i bought it off paid $107k - fully loaded. looked good but the 18" alloys on run flats tyres was worse than the 17" harts. z4 tram line excessively in corners.

z3
had 3 of these. a 1.9 - 2.8 and a 3.0 . the 1.9 was the better balance than the 6 ers and handled better.
the 3.0 was quick but definately wouldn't beat this SE and was hopeless in corners - due again to tram lining.

would i buy i bmw again

yes - in the next 12 months i want to buy two more cars - another 6 pot z3 and a bug eye sprite.
you know how it goes the older yoiu get the less time you have.

so i will have the SE for the power - the z3 for pose value - and the bug eye for a laugh.

if i would have used my grey matter better - i could have had all 3 for the price i paid for the z4. so you live, lean and waster money. what a life :roll:

Postby **NitroDann** » Tue Sep 13, 2011 8:30 pm

Honestly, I hated all the z3s I drove in just about every way. But each to their own, and my na6 is soooooo much more fun and HEAPS better handling than the boxters Ive dríven. The 996 turbo though..

Dann

billybunter · Postby **billybunter** » Tue Sep 13, 2011 9:33 pm

could be a big day tomorrow .......stay tuned!

davidau · Postby **davidau** » Tue Sep 13, 2011 10:30 pm

PaulF wrote:
davidau wrote:This is the true spirit of restoring a classic motor vehicle...making good progress everyday!!

Really? My experience with working on classic (read: old) cars has usually been one of spending all day working and feeling like you haven't achieved anything at the end of the day.

Its a timely process and especially when you want it to be perfect

ak_perth · Postby **ak_perth** » Wed Sep 14, 2011 8:31 am

Hi Billybunter,

I just wanted to thank you for this brilliant thread. It's extremely interesting and very well documented. It's amazing to see how much preparation is involved. However, I feel like i'm reading a good book and approaching the last few chapters, i dont want this thread to end!

Cheers

AK

billybunter · Postby **billybunter** » Wed Sep 14, 2011 2:07 pm

hi ak
glad you enjoy it - it's a fair way to go yet

i took a couple of videos today. have loaded them on photobucket - now how do i get them :?:

here

billybunter · Postby **billybunter** » Wed Sep 14, 2011 6:29 pm

cleaned the pergola area up today for a spray session. i was also ready to encose the whole area in plastic sheeting - but the 30 kph winds put a damper on that

bought some clear coat - primer and sandpaper $50 TOTAL SPENT $510

i decided on the colour for the se with help from crapweasel. he mentioned that white is a very rare colour for this model and only available in japan.
don't mind the idea of a white se and with the add on extras should look ok.
decided to do the front end first. gave it a wet/dry rub down with 600 grit - followed on by grease/wax remover then on to the colour.
gave it about 4 coats then let it dry for 20 minutes followed by a few coats of clear. now it's noce and shiney

ealier on i mentioned not to leave your masking paper on for too longer period.

here the area is clean

when i removed the paper bits of dry primer paint scattered over the work area. if i had the mistake of removing the paper whilst the paint was still wet - i'd be sanding it all out and re-doing the job again.