Rebuilding a NA8

[Haydos]

Probably, but i will take in all that has been said and do a little more research then come back and see what else i need help understanding.

Thanks

[NitroDann]

No problem, Im sure many others will chime in with more info.

If it were my ten grand, and I were in your position id...

Cams
Shaved head
Solid lifters
Hone
New rings
New bearings
All new gaskets seals etc
Cheap clutch
Megasquirt ecu
Cops
Intake (mania is fine, but needs more heatshielding)
Headers
Exhaust
E85 swap
Torsen
Some coilovers
Swaybars
A nice seat
Perhaps a 6 speed.

Ive not counted up the price on this, but id say it would be somewhere a few grand short of 10.

Dann

[project.r.racing]

Gasket Kit 400
Timing Belt 85
Spark Plug Leads 75
Spark Plugs 18
Con Rods 1550 H beams for $400 on ebay
Pistons 895 (from) example - wiseco 1.0mm oversize 10.3:1 comp ratio for $600 on ebay
Tighe Camshafts 695 (from)
Fuel Filter 45
Oil Filter 15 $9 from supercheap auto
Adjustable Cam Gears 180
High Output Fuel Pump 275
Head Studs 275
Hoses 295
Thermostat 40 dayco for $9 from supercheap auto
Water Pump 95
Oil Cooler/Filter Relocation 450 can be done for under $200 is you buy the end off ebay and the fittings and lines from your regular fittings and hose shop
Cold Air Intake 285
2.25" Cat Back 650
Headers 480
DBA Gold Brakes Front 385 buy RDA slotted and save heaps. again on ebay for under $250 per pair
DBA Gold Brakes Rear 313 as above
Bendix Pads 184 sh*t pad - trw or hawk for same cost
Heavy Duty Clutch 615 Clutch Indrusties RPM heavy duty for $200 on ebay
Adaptronic ECU Package 1591

few examples for savings out there.

[93_Clubman]

With 220k kms & you wanting use your NA8 as a daily & sometime track car, you should add a set of suspension bushes to the list as mentioned earlier by STM.

[StanTheMan]

I'm going to be honest with you
I can almost garrantee you will have drivability issues with that. Its just how it is. It isn't going to be anything like stock.

Think hard before you spend all that money. I think you will be disapointed with the result. Yes the Dyno will give you a top HP figure we can all have a public display of masterbation about. Most of us will be happy to join you. But it will be like a race car. In traffic.....she will be a total bitch. Unlike your girlfriend who you could take on the occasional weekend away & perhaps get some priceless action with some of that money.

If you want to race occasionally....keep it simple. leave the drivability intact. The biggest strenth your MX5 has is the handling. You've done virtualy nothing for that apart from the coil overs.
a lot of stuff you don't really need.

Just do the simple stuff.....concentrate on the suspension & geometry.Some lightweigh wheels & apropriate rubber and all the bushes. On the Mania Dyno, 95rwkw is achievable. The car will have almost stock drivability. If you do it right. & have the peak hp at the right RPM. It will be so much more fun to drive than with 120rwkw where the drivability is total sh*t.

forget the conrods
forget the adaptronic
forget the oil relocation kit
forget the oversized pistons
forget the high output fuel pump

Of course I have no problem being proved wrong. It is after all my opinion only. I hope you don't take my opinion against personally.
Whats the going price for an SP these days?
although thats another completely different debate.


with utmost respect
StanTheCrankyOldMan

[StanTheMan]

ohhhh....I think I'm going to duck to avoid the shitstorm now

about time we had a COW


MOOOOOOOOO

[bigdog]

What STM said.

Rebuild for reliability when the engine is using oil or low on compression. Go for mild performance upgrades and concentrate on suspension, tyres and driving skill. When you reach the limits of the car then modify some more, or buy something faster. Assuming an NA8 in average condition is worth $5K and you're planning on spending $10K more - there's an SE for sale for that money (with 140rwkw) and an SP for sale at $18K. Both will give you everything you could ask for performance wise with scope to go nuts if you really must, and they are much younger cars.

If you want the NA shape there are several turboed versions for sale under $20K, and some well modded non turbo versions for less. By all means spend the money if you want the experience of DIY, but if you're paying someone else to do the work why not buy a completed project that you can drive and see if it suits your needs.

[NitroDann]

At 100, in 6th, my car pulls away from a stock na6 in 4th EASILY.

At full revs, screams past XR6s and keeps up with MP45 supercharged 1.8s with 'lots of extra fruit' no problem at all (see what I didnt there...fruit lol ).

It has a bastard clutch, but it doesnt need to. Without the drift clutch the car is wonderful and easy to drive. The huge torque improvement is the main thing.

Dann

[StanTheMan]

its a fruity kind of a day......

*back in hiding*

[Haydos]

I see your point StanTheMan and i thought the same thoughts many times. Lightweight wheels were always going to be in the plan. I know everyone goes on about anti-sway bars and other such suspension upgrades being the best thing that can be done to an MX5 but my experience with fitting anti sway bars to other cars, that didn't even have any to begin with, was very disappointing and i cannot see that the suspension in the MX5 can be made that much better with such improvements.

The rebuild is definitely more about refreshing the car than increasing the power. I would go completely stock Mazda if it was cheaper than getting the extra power. At this point the only racing i can really afford to do regularly is motorkhana and hill climbs, no track stuff. So the drivability is of big importance and in asking for all your opinions i was hoping to get some people to strongly disagree with me.

I've put a lot of work into this car bringing it back from its years of neglect cosmetically and would like to hold onto it and not trade it in, especially not for a turbo (not a big fan of turbos).

I guess at the end of the day what i want to know is if i start thrashing more often what will break and how to i prevent it. Also is there anyone out there that has done a naturally aspirated build with a big power increase that thinks the car is still enjoyable off the track and windy roads?

[NitroDann]

Nobody has dríven my car and hasnt enjoyed it.

Its clutch sucks. But it doesnt have to.

Its driveability is great.

Dann

[project.r.racing]

1st paragrahph reads like ultimate fail of the highest level. Unsure what cars you have been working on, but any street car (not just a MX5) will improve it's handling with correctly fitted and designed sway bars, strut braces and suspension towers.

Why do power mods if it is just gonna sway like a ferry in sydney harbour when it turns?

[NitroDann]

Sounds like you need to drive a cheap yet sorted mx5.

Dann

[Haydos]

My na has standard anti sway bars and chassis braces with slightly lowered coilovers, it handles better than most cars. My mate and I fitted whiteline sway bars to his Honda civic vti-r and while it made a slight improvement it was barely noticeable.

[project.r.racing]

My na has standard anti sway bars and chassis braces with slightly lowered coilovers, it handles better than most cars. My mate and I fitted whiteline sway bars to his Honda civic vti-r and while it made a slight improvement it was barely noticeable.

fornt or rear swaybar? or both?