This next post will be LONG.
It will be basically a writeup on everything timing belt and crank pulley assembly etc related.
So onto the engine:
Here it is ready to start going back together.
As you can see I already put the thermostat housing and cover etc back on the block. At the rear I've also reattached the sensor housings and blocked off the heater feed.
This is a short nose crank (omg oh no, dont rev it to 9K bro)...
You can see the crank nose here at about 7 o clock on both the pulley and the crank nose you can see the key (in the pulley) and the keyway(on the crank). You can also see some residue on the crank nose. This was cleaned off before installation of the pulley with some fine sandpaper.
I thought Id go into the details about the SNC (short nose crank) thing here.
What happens is the water pump is directly above the crank, in the above picture you can see the three pointed star, this is where the water pump pulley bolts on, and that whole silver section behind it is the water pump. When you dont change it at 100k with the timing belt, it starts to leak (next opportunity to see this is usually at 200k).
It drips down into the whole crank area and causes some corrosion in between the pulley and crank nose. As this assembly transfers power, this corrosion wears away, leaving the tight fit between them, no longer tight. This small amount of play increases over time allowing the crank bolt to loosen and when the pulley is a couple millimetres from falling off the torque of the motor on the accessories is too much and the front edge of the keyway is chipped (more like torn) away from the crank, damaging it.
Above you can see me tapping the pulley into place with the 2 keyways lined up with the key, the blue you can see is a low strength locktite. Consider this insurance.
Next we have the two timing belt bearing pulleys. The one I'm holding is just a static pulley, where the other one is a tensioner. You need to spin these whenever you have this apart so see if they spin free and smooth. If they are notchy or sound dry (no lube inside anymore) they need to be replaced. As these are both 17000km old they are fine.
The next image shows the pulleys installed. The one on the right needs to be fully tightened now. The one on the left needs to be left a turn or 2 loose to allow it to swing across to adjust tension soon. You can see the left hand tensioner has a pivot point at about 5 O'clock, and the other black part at 2 O'clock is where the tensioning spring goes.
Next is the black rear cover. This serves a double purpose. It has the bolt holes to secure the top timing cover (if you run one) and it also has the timing marks on it (the V in between the cam gears).
Next come the cam gears being careful to put the intake and exhaust in the right spots.
Next we throw the belt on. It doesnt matter that its not timed right yet, its just so we can tighten the cam gear bolts. If we dont throw a belt on the cam gears will just spin.
And even with the belt on if we just try to tighten them by hand the whole engine will turn so we must do it this way. Obviously be sensible here.
The next few images are grouped together, they show where the timing marks line up.
You need to line them all up and then fit the belt. But for now just study all of the marks. You can see the crank pulley mark easily. Then there are 2 lines on each cam pulley. One goes up and the other matches the V stamped onto the black cover we just fitted a couple of steps ago.
This top tooth lines up with this mark. Unless you have cut the front of your cover off ignore this, just make sure the second mark points up not down.
Now fit the belt, being careful not to move anything. In the next image you can see that the left hand belt pulley (the tensioner) has been moved across to the right compared to the photograph where I zoom in on the tensioner and spring. This is the tight position. This is either set by rotating the engine around a few times with the bolt loose enough for the spring to set the tension or you push the pulley tighter by hand, tighten the bolt, turn the engine and then feel the tension between the cam pulleys, it should deflect 10mm with 10kg of force on it.
YOU MUST TURN THE ENGINE OVER AT LEAST 2 FULL REVOLUTIONS -CLOCKWISE- THEN CHECK TO SEE THE TIMING MARKS STILL LINE UP. IF NOT REDO THE LAST STEP. When you tighten the belt it pulls it a little towards the tensioner, this may move the cam marks a tooth to the left, this has to be double checked by spinning the engine clockwise at least 2 full revolutions. Once again if its not right redo it by moving the belt a tooth or 2 and try again.
Next we bolt on the bottom cover and slide on the thin round plate that keep the timing belt from rubbing on the harmonic balancer pulley.
Then bolt the harmonic balancer on, its held on by 4x10mm bolts, not that big 19mm crank bolt. If you havent moved anything it will line up with the 0degrees mark that one would use to set timing. Static timing should be at the 10 (degrees) mark stock, or closer to 14 if youve done the 14 degrees modification. Right now as everything is lined up for top dead centre this mark will also point at 0 degrees.
Next bolt on the middle cover.
Next we remove the crank bolt (the big one that we have been using to turn the engine over with) and liberally apply locktite. Next the bolt is torqued to specs. I do not use this method, but some people here will cry negligence if I show people my method which comes from some experience so I wont show it here.
Finally, bolt on the water pump pulley and fit the belts. Sorry about the blurry picture.
At this point in time Im ready to bolt on the gearbox and fit the engine back in. But im typing and its getting dark so ill head to a place with the net and upload this post.
I hope you all enjoyed that.
Any questions?
:D
Dann
I dont think I am ever going to find out what mine is! looks like yours is covered in vinyl or leather so I assume spent a former life in an off roader of some sort. 
