That helps us a lot.
So a few bits of info.
When the idiot light comes on you dont need to look. Eg you set it to 140c oil temp. When it comes on it just hit 140c.
Your oil/water temp and oil pressure will all be at their best on the straight. Plenty of airflow for cooling, and oil pressure drops come from cornering and the oil moving away from the sump pickup, this will never happen halfway up 4th gear on the straight.
Also, any guage not inside the cluster, or above the dash level isnt useful at all unless tuning, because when performance driving you just dont have enough time to look. Between hoping its in 4th not 3rd (gearstick in the road) looking away from the road almost 90 degrees, focus changes from 100m to 60cm, refocus on the guage, now look at the next one, and the next one.
You just cant do it from a din mount.
Also with water guage myths. They all do work, ive overheated mine plenty of times to test my ducting. Ive sat and held it at 4000rpm with no fans on the car whatsoever and watched both the temp guage and the laptop and believe me the guage works. What people dont like is that the guage doesnt move much between 90 and 100 degrees. Above 100 it starts to more quicker. This is like a bit of an idiot guage function. It works fine, and 110c is perfectly safe temperature for your engine.
As for the factory oil pressure guage, it is an idiot light and thats all you need for oil pressure.
As for oil temp, an oil cooler and filter relocation kit WITH a thermostat built in guarantees it will never be an issue. Its much cooler and more functional than 3 din mount guages, 2 of which you already have, and leaves that din space for some much needed storage (din pocket).
This is just my opinion, and im happy to advise you on how to go about it any way.
Dann
Gauge Panel for NB
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Re: Gauge Panel for NB
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speed wrote:If I was to do it again, I wouldn't even consider the supercharger.
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Re: Gauge Panel for NB
Haha! I love the NitroDann tech support helpline! Always on!
Thanks for that, and you've convinced me to spend my money elsewhere. I'll stay the oil cooler route without the gauges. I'll ping you separately on the idiot lights when I get around to doing it...when I get the oil cooler in I guess!
Thanks for that, and you've convinced me to spend my money elsewhere. I'll stay the oil cooler route without the gauges. I'll ping you separately on the idiot lights when I get around to doing it...when I get the oil cooler in I guess!
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Im glad ive convinced you to make the car more functional. NitroDanns mission complete
You should do the bumper cut or mini scoop with your oil cooler, like patricks 'casper'. Because it works well and looks great. That sort of pure function sexy, like the bodykit on 'Monster' Tajima's Suziki Escudo Pikes Peak Edition.
Dann
You should do the bumper cut or mini scoop with your oil cooler, like patricks 'casper'. Because it works well and looks great. That sort of pure function sexy, like the bodykit on 'Monster' Tajima's Suziki Escudo Pikes Peak Edition.
Dann
http://www.NitroDann.com
speed wrote:If I was to do it again, I wouldn't even consider the supercharger.
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Re: Gauge Panel for NB
NitroDann wrote:...Also with water guage myths. They all do work...
Sure the coolant and oil pressure gauges "work" but in an NB they're more an idiot gauge, I have both an NA and NB and see the differences.
If your coolant/oil temps are spiking so badly that they car is dangerously overheating in corners than looks perfectly fine on the straights then remove the licence plate and/or roadkill from in front of your radiator.
Obviously warning lights and "peak hold" functions are best as you can't always be looking at the gauges.
If you had access to a car like this, would you take it back right away? Neither would I.
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