which bits break in an NA diff

[bretauto]

I have one under the bench and was considering using it in a locost I am building, engine will be making 150KW, I know the 1.8 diff is stronger,
So the question is which bits break? crown wheel and pinion or the plantery and sun gears in the differental? or a combination of both?
If it is only the differential gears , has up grading to and aftermarket LSD helped?
I'm just looking at using up the stuff I already have, but if its not going to last I will just fork at the extra cash how , that way I will save on 2 custom tailshafts.
thanks

[NitroDann]

I have 4 dead ones in the shed.

Pinion bearings
Pinion bearings
Pinion bearings and

Pinion bearings

My friend john had his fixed for more than the cost of a replacement, it was...

Pinion bearings

And 'spikes' on here is due for a new diff soon, as it needs....

Pinion bearings...

Hope that helps

BTW it was the over run side that died every time.

Dann

[Muzdaman]

I cracked the planetary gears on mine.

[NitroDann]

And my 1.8 diff has copped many 3rd gear on the limiter drops and plenty of drifting, and I have a 2 step and flat shifting that I use regularly.

And its fluid always comes looks great and metal free.

Dann

[noobee]

depends a lot on the weight you have to shift too.I'm assuming locost = loweight.
If you are substantially lighter than dann's car (Dann chip in with some weight and power/torque figures here),the little diff will probably last a lot longer than you think.I'm also assuming that a locost car will come in for more than a little "enthusiastic" driving so a little diff is probably eventually doomed anyway.
So it gets down to save money now,or spend more now and save later.
Mick

[NitroDann]

100 odd rwkw, sub 900 kg. 870 maybe.

I would say sell it while its still working and worth half a 1.8 setup. Ive seen 1.6 diffs sell for 350, and I bought my 4.1 torsen, driveshafts and tailshaft for 650 delivered to newcastle from sydney. And that doesnt mention the fact that the best 1.6 lsds are 95% open anyway, and even if it was perfect the torsen is so much better.

Dann

[noobee]

Wot dann said!if you're building the car it will just take 1 or 2 more overtime shifts lol,2 extra days!
Mick

[NitroDann]

Noobee you should come over next time theres 4 or 5 forum members at mine already? Theres was 4 here just 3 days ago.

We are all ages, im 21 but people like patrick bramston (40s i think ) so whether your 17 or 60 your welcome. If you want ill pm you next there will be a few here?

Dann

[noobee]

yeah,sounds good.but i'm working 12 hr shifts 7 days (i'm dogwatch now machining railway wheels) so dont get a lot of weekends like normal jobs.the rest of the time i'm usually buggered or just plain lazy.
Mick

[NitroDann]

its usually weekday afternoons. Ill pm anyhow, and hope to see you

Dann

[bretauto]

thanks guy's for the replies, I'm aiming for a 550kg car, so it would probly last a little while , but it will be abused so I will go the 1.8 off the bat.

[bigdog]

My clubbie weighs 480kg and with just 95HP at the flywheel I have broken 2 axles and 1 side gear on the original (Triumph/Standard) live axle and 2 axles and one side gear on the stronger A series Morris live axle. It is very quick off the line though Given there is not much difference in weight I would always fit the strongest diff available, so go the 1.8.

[StanTheMan]

It doesn't take much to break a 1.6 diff.
In my case I upgraded the clutch & Tyres.
Wasn't even trying hard. That was with a huge 65
Go the 1.8. You will not regret it.
And with 150 rwkw.
A 4.1:1 diff will be a bit nicer too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[spikes]

pinion bearings, once it starts to make the raspy sound on deceleration, you know its on its way out. oh well, torsen soon

oh and btw, don't get a viscous, 15-20year old viscous would all be opens by now