Handbrake not adjusting

Nemo · Postby **Nemo** » Wed Apr 27, 2011 12:46 pm

Hey guys,
Recently put new pads and rotors into my car and been having some issues with the handbrake. I adjusted the rears properly with the hex key rather then just a G clamp etc. They seemed perfectly fine, however went down to Wakefield a couple of days later and after a track day yesterday, they seem to not want to stop the car anymore on inclines. Have also tried adjusting the handbrake from in cabin to no avail. Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers.

project.r.racing · Postby **project.r.racing** » Wed Apr 27, 2011 2:37 pm

track day most likely just ripped the soft surface off the new pads. i'd presume another adjustment of the hex key would fix it.

DaveWA · Postby **DaveWA** » Wed Apr 27, 2011 2:57 pm

MMMM. I have the opposite issue....put new carbotech pads all round
have to adjust rears to release after 2 weeks, they just seem to drag, parkbrake cable is not tensioned up, flushed brakes thoroughly
have had to adjust 2 times so far
starts off ok ends up feeling like I have 300 kgs in the boot

sorry didnt mean to thread jack

Nemo · Postby **Nemo** » Wed Apr 27, 2011 3:14 pm

project.r.racing wrote:track day most likely just ripped the soft surface off the new pads. i'd presume another adjustment of the hex key would fix it.

Hopefully its a simple enough fix like that. Will try when i get the time.

Nemo · Postby **Nemo** » Wed Apr 27, 2011 3:27 pm

Nemo wrote:
project.r.racing wrote:track day most likely just ripped the soft surface off the new pads. i'd presume another adjustment of the hex key would fix it.

Hopefully its a simple enough fix like that. Will try when i get the time.

Also, I was always under the impression that the handbrake/rear piston was self adjusting in that manner?

lukearama · Postby **lukearama** » Wed Apr 27, 2011 4:12 pm

Also, I was always under the impression that the handbrake/rear piston was self adjusting in that manner?[/quote]

They should be? have you counted the number of clicks on the lever as you pull it up? There are always a few different was of doing the self adjustment the best way I have found is too start the car up and hold your foot hard on the brake then with your finger on the button of the handbrake pull it up and down about 20 times in quick succision. No this is not a joke...

This should ensure correct self adjustment.

If you problem continues I would look at de-glasing your pad/rotor. depending on the type and use that your pad has experienced you may not have a very good low speed friction. I know I was unable to execute a handbrake turn with some new pads I had fitted. Also if you have not followed the beding in proceedure for those pads you may also get some issues.

mitch_f1 · Postby **mitch_f1** » Thu Jul 21, 2011 10:50 am

I am actually having this same problem. I recently regreased the slider pins on the back, but kept the old pads in there (a little over half the meat remained so no point changing it). I hex keyed it until it was tight, and then reversed it 1/3rd of a turn. I then went into the cabin and depressed the brake pedal 5-10 times and adjusted the cabin screw adjustment so that I had 6 clicks on the handbrake lever. Now the handbrake won't hold the car on even the slightest of inclines, as the OP said.

Is there some other adjustment that I am missing?

de Bounce · Postby **de Bounce** » Thu Jul 21, 2011 11:22 am

Assuming the rear brakes have initially been adjusted correctly both at each rear calliper and the handbrake handle:
If the handbrake is coming up beyond the 6-8 clicks but still hold then it's an adjustment issue.

Nemo wrote:Also, I was always under the impression that the handbrake/rear piston was self adjusting in that manner?
lukearama wrote:They should be? have you counted the number of clicks on the lever as you pull it up? There are always a few different was of doing the self adjustment the best way I have found is too start the car up and hold your foot hard on the brake then with your finger on the button of the handbrake pull it up and down about 20 times in quick succision. No this is not a joke...
This should ensure correct self adjustment.

If the handbrake is coming up about 6-8 clicks and the brakes wont hold, then it might be glazed pads or a problem with the slide pins or calliper

lukearama wrote:If you problem continues I would look at de-glasing your pad/rotor. depending on the type and use that your pad has experienced you may not have a very good low speed friction. I know I was unable to execute a handbrake turn with some new pads I had fitted. Also if you have not followed the beding in proceedure for those pads you may also get some issues.

mitch_f1 · Postby **mitch_f1** » Thu Jul 21, 2011 9:18 pm

Slide pins have been regreased, and calipers were rebuilt fairly recently

Mxbob · Postby **Mxbob** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 5:54 pm

Did you slacken the cable off fully at the handle BEFORE adjusting the hex screw on the calliper. If you don't, the adjustment will not work properly.
Slacken the cable>>>>adjust hex screws both sides>>>>>tighten cable for correct amount of clicks.

mitch_f1 · Postby **mitch_f1** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 8:55 pm

How do you mean slacken the cable? I did the hex adjustment when the handbrake was off and no brake pressure applied. I then pumped the brakes several times and did the hand brake

Mxbob · Postby **Mxbob** » Sat Jul 23, 2011 12:14 am

Take the handbrake off but also undo the cable adjuster on the handbrake handle. Despite having the handbrake off there is an element of tension in the cable that needs slackening off before you adjust the hex screws.
I had the same problem. I would adjust the hex screws and the handbrake would be good for a day or two only. Give it a go.