NitroDann's Long Awaited Garage Thread

spikes · Postby **spikes** » Thu Jul 14, 2011 6:35 pm

NitroDann wrote:Yeah thats the seal, my engine gearbox and diff comes out sunday for all the seals, should come around maybe we can pick up the lot for a good price.

Dann

Yeah that sounds awesome

Postby **NitroDann** » Thu Jul 14, 2011 6:41 pm

Ill try to organise all of them tomorrow.
See what i can do.

Dann

Postby **NitroDann** » Fri Jul 15, 2011 5:51 pm

Spikes I can pick up the seals tomorrow, got them at trade and saved plenty. Cam seals were 3 dollars...

Guys Ill have heaps of photos up tonight, Ill hopefully have this ducting finished by sunday.
Ive got the brake sheilds done, worked out the mounting, got the exhaust pipe cutoffs riveted onto the sheild for diirecting air in, and im still going to run 2 hoses per side, one on the sheild one aimed at the caliper.

Enough photos to show how to do it by 8 tonight.

Dann

Postby **NitroDann** » Sat Jul 16, 2011 2:03 am

Turns out I lied about the photos.. Sorry.

Ill have them up by lunch though. I have one side done. Im really happy with how they turned out, it looks great and I can even go full lock to lock without problems.

I think ive definately solved any and all heat issues.

Dann

spikes · Postby **spikes** » Sat Jul 16, 2011 10:09 am

NitroDann wrote:Spikes I can pick up the seals tomorrow, got them at trade and saved plenty. Cam seals were 3 dollars...

Awesome

Postby **NitroDann** » Sat Jul 16, 2011 11:22 am

What seals do you want... and when will you be over?

Dann

Postby **NitroDann** » Sat Jul 16, 2011 11:31 am

Ok so heres the pics so far of the brake ducting install.

Stock shields

My one, the start of it anyway

How it fits over the hub of the disk. Also you can see how it has a small gap that will let air out on one side, its only a small percentage of the total inner disk area, and it lets air hit the brake pads directly.

All mounted, but not close to finished, the second pic shows the spacers to space it right up against the disk... Like 1mm away from it.

Here it is again from the first side, with duct tube attached.

The air intake in its infancy, a lot more work to go before this is done.

How it will sit, one for each side. yes clever people would notice 4 in total...

These little air horns will pull the air from a larger hole and funnel it into the already big pipes.

Added a little air dam to make sure heaps of air is scooped in.

This one doesnt have its little side air deflector in this picture, but apart from that the pic is self explanatory.

This pic is taken by putting the camera into the mouth of the car, you can see the pipes fit cleanly through holes in the radiator ducting. They are siliconed in place to seal them.

This shows the hose thats aimed directly in front of the caliper.

And this pic is self explanatory. one sides done, the other about 60%.

Thoughts, ideas, comments, experience?:D:D

Dann

Hellmun · Postby **Hellmun** » Sat Jul 16, 2011 2:19 pm

I'd be concerned about directly pointing a duct at the rotor as well as the hub. That's starting to venture into unever pad wear, rotor cracking and horrible problems in the wet territory. A single larger duct at the hub will hit a big heatsink still and will result in even cooling. Atleast make sure you engineer a simple way of closing them in the wet as getting a clear path for spray to the caliper could give you an unpredictable peddle. Less so on the track with heat but coming off an expressway after cruising for a long time in the wet will probably mean a few pumps before the brakes starts properly. For laziness I still just tape my ducts up as required as it's pretty rare but I very very rarely do regular street driving in my car these days. You were still using yours relatively often right?

Postby **NitroDann** » Sat Jul 16, 2011 5:28 pm

Dailying like a boss :twisted:

The 2 inch pipe hitting the disk IS aimed at the hub. Its aimed at about 10mm of disk. The second one aims at the caliper. Does that help clarify? Or did you get it first tiMe around and ive done something silly here?

Is the 10mm on the disk too much?
I could easily put some jb weld in the pipe to deflect that little bit toward the hub, i was just concerned about max airflow. I could have squashed the pipe to make it thiner and wider, but had no way to cut an oval.

Also can you give me any other ideas? Does it look sound or is there something glaringly obvious ive stuffed?

Dann

Old Dude · Postby **Old Dude** » Sat Jul 16, 2011 8:30 pm

Looks good Dann, how do you go with the steering on full lock, no problem with the flex catching?

Cheers
Dale

DaveWA · Postby **DaveWA** » Sat Jul 16, 2011 8:43 pm

looks good mate

Postby **NitroDann** » Sat Jul 16, 2011 8:55 pm

Full lock no worries. The pipes are glued into the sheilds and the pickups in the mouth with high temp silicone. This allows me to remove the pipes if I want. Its damned strong but it will peel apart if need be.

I was very careful to design the sheilds so the hoses never gets near the wheel or anything.

Its all tucked away very neatly.

Ill cut 2 blanking plates as hellmun has suggested for daily driving.

I now really need to take everyones advice on refining it and ironing out the bits that could be better (like i said, criticise away please) and choose pads for it.

Ive been suggested EBC greens for front and EBC regular for rear by the local revolution racegear supplier (and general rally shop, hes been to targa like 10 years running).

As my car is very light and has pretty serious ducting for the brakes im looking for super high coefficients of friction, and a working temp thats not 1500c. I do not care about any girly stuff, like dust and noise.
Please make suggestions.

Dann

Postby **orx626** » Sat Jul 16, 2011 8:59 pm

Dann, don't direct any cooling air flow at the rotor friction surface...as Hellmun said, you will over cool the inside face whilst the outside is somewhat hotter...which will lead to uneven wear and in extreme cases cause pedal shudder as you will have different coefficients of friction acting at the pad contact faces. The idea of this additional brake cooling is to deliver air directly to the inside of the rotor vents (not directly to the friction surfaces) so that a relatively uniform temperature across the whole rotor section is achieved. Big temperature gradients are bad and can lead to cracking. I would apply this extra cooling air as close as possible to the caliper as this is where the heat is being generated.

Here's an example fitted to a production sports car used in both sprint and endurance events.

Cheers,
Danny

Postby **NitroDann** » Sat Jul 16, 2011 9:22 pm

---Edit.

There are 2 pipes, one is aimed straight at the caliper and no way near the disk. And the other pipe is the one in the sheild. The one in the sheild is aimed 90% at the hub centre, with only a very small part of that openinggoing towards the disk the remaining 10%. Is this what your both refering to, or do you think the hose mounted on the coilover is aimed at the disk face?---

Thankyou. Its easy, ill just add a little deflector on that bit. As i said its only 10mm or less.

I understand that its intended to hit the hub and get pumped through the channels, I just couldnt cut a different shaped hole, but I can shield the disk very easily.

Appreciate that. Keep em coming.

Also Does anyone else here have a similar setup on an NA/NB that works well they can post photos of so I can see exactly how its been done before, as I made this all up off the top of my head.

Dann

Postby **Boyracer** » Sun Jul 17, 2011 9:23 am

I;m a big fan of DIY and the engineering of new things but...

My race car runs stock NA8 brakes with slotted front rotors and Hawk Blue pads, no fancy brake fluid....no cooling, no backing plates, I have never had any brake problems...

I do 1.06 at Wakefield and 1.47 at e/creek...including doing 1 hour races...so I would say the cooling stuff is not really needed.

I used EBC pads once on my MX5 and they were crap...would never use them again...have never had a problem with the Hawk pads.