NitroDann's Long Awaited Garage Thread

[RedMX]

First things first, the loom around the plugs... Do you mean a shorter section between the coils and the main loom or did you mean tighter heatshrink around that section?
Dann

Bang on the money Dann.

Basically the neater it is the better it looks. With the harness you also want to keep in mind if any chafing with movement & vibrations.
wich I'm sure you would have the common sense to know. witch also is overcome with correct & smart routing and lengths. (also makes the visuals look good) > Could be a marketing point.

The other thing is weather protection (what you were saying about the heat shrink). so stop foreign debris from entering the harness & it will also have a longer serviceable operation and keep moisture out.

A loom board (has layout of lengths & wire colours and conector locations).


& some fine work about being neat.


just my 2 cents

[NitroDann]

Thanks, please keep em coming. I want to produce something everyone is happy with.

Dann

[tinsfci]

Dann and RedMX (loom guru judging by those photos:lol: ).

What's the verdict on insulation tape over the tubing. I always limit it to where wires exit the loom becuase even using decent Nitto stuff, it eventually starts to come off an leave goo on the loom? Hard to tell from the pics, but are these ones almost completely wrapped?

[sailaholic]

I'd be happy to use low km used ones but if real deal ones are available for cheaper then that sounds like a good way to go

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[NitroDann]

I REALLY dont like using lecko tape if I can help it. I certaintly dont ever use it to cover connections, thats what heat shrink is for. But to keep the convolute closed and to cover its ends there isnt much choice.

Having said that, toyota use a lot of it, but what they use us soooo good. It ends up like a bike tube wrapped around the loom.

Ill see all the options on coils, obviously all will have a warranty.

Dann

[RedMX]

I REALLY dont like using lecko tape if I can help it. I certaintly dont ever use it to cover connections, thats what heat shrink is for. But to keep the convolute closed and to cover its ends there isnt much choice.

right size heatshrink will work

[Old Dude]

Talking about lecky tape there is other options beside heat shrink.
Whitworths marine and Leisure sell it, its called rubbaweld marine tape, and when you wrap it around itself it sort of weld itself together and doesn't leave a sticky residue.
Its also withstands 1000degree C, might be worth investigating.

https://www.whitworths.com.au/main_item ... search123=

Cheers
Dale

[sailaholic]

The self amalgamating tape you refer to is also used by parts of the electrical industry and may be cheaper to purchase that way.

I generally find you mention the word boat or caravan and the price increases.

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[NitroDann]

Just an quick update on work being done in preparation for its first track day in quite a while (hopefully get to next wakefield club day).

Rebuilding the brakes in prep for some new track pads.
next will come an alignment, then engine gearbox and diff out to replace some pesky seals and do a full fluid flush and change.

Photos of brakes

yeah its FILTHY and somehow covered in fresh overspray... cant remember doing that...Its just been sitting there for about 2 months.






Main piston seal looks pretty good, wasnt leaking at all.


Piston looks great


So Ive freed up the slides and regreased it all, and flushed the lot.

Dann

[bootz]

Ok, as you are soliciting opinions.

This is an innovative idea and appears to have merit. As you can see there is a certain amount of pants wetting among the afficionados.

I suggest back to back dynos on say a clients car. Simple, point proven and the MX community will then beat a path to your door.

Perhaps some of your fans could kick in $10 each for dyno and privilege of being the first customers.

Just a thought, Cheers,

Bootz

[NitroDann]

I dare say next time casper the winged warrior is at the dyno we will do back to back with it.

Dann

[NitroDann]

So im told by many that you need to go to nb8b brakes with dba 4000 rotors or better.

I'll take that challenge. :p

So im sitting here, hubs still attached but nothing else...

Whos made their own disk backing plates? As in, the plate with the air scoop. The stock one really doesnt have a good way to get a decent duct in there. Im thinking just a totally flat aluminium plate, spaced right up against the disk, covering the entire face except where the caliper goes, with just a hole dead centre aimed straight at the centre of the disk. Ive made cardboard templates and some bits, and ill take air from my already very well ducted cold high pressure area in front of the radiator in the mouth, through the standard 3 inch flexi pipe.

Either way, you know me, ill just make them and report. But input or experience would be great.

Also, carbotech xp12 is what everyone is sprinting with on 1.6 brakes?

Dann

[Old Dude]

Aluminium plate is easy to work with but crap for strength, a decent hit and it would be rubbing on your disk....I think you would be better to use steel plate.

Cheers
Dale

[Bizi]

I am not a mechanic or an engineer, but I'd defer to the industry and agree that steel's better for that job, if it's practical. Why not find the right size from some parts bin? Mazda, Ford, VW, whatever, if you can get to a wrecker with cars having this size rotors.

Good luck and keep up the excellent reporting and pics.

[NitroDann]

You can bend the factory steel one into or away from the disk with your fingers. How do you suggest it would get hit? Its contained within the wheel, maybe I havent thought this through...

The reason I cant use any factory ones is that they all have a scoop, and have no provision for a 3 inch hose hahaha.

Dann