NitroDann's Long Awaited Garage Thread

Postby **NitroDann** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 1:13 am

Yeah start of the season, perfect time to throw down everything ive got and snap another diff straight in 2 haha.
I have 4 broked ones. Should be sweet, ive been known to drop it at the limiter in third at the lights just to tell it to some silly noob in a rexy or a falcadore. It cops that ok so it should be sweet all day with the 4.1 torsen rather than a 1.6 diff. haha. But ive left the track twice with no diff before. :oops:

Dann

Edit.. jesus 3 pages in just under 12 hours..

spikes · Postby **spikes** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 1:36 am

after throwing in the toyota cops into my mx5, i noticed the throttle was more responsive, especially with heel toe blipping/braking. not a significant difference but definitely noticeable. I remember seeing some on ebay for around $70, problem is getting the wiring and plugs though as they come attached to a wiring loom which wreckers will cost a ridiculous price for..

anyways, here's some photos of it installed in mine..

and the plug where it attaches to the wiring loom

Postby **NitroDann** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 5:37 pm

So I have received many posts very quickly regarding full plug and play cops setups like I have. Im happy to make them and sell them with very little profit thats fine, but for now I need to work out what prices I can get on new, and low km halfcut derived coils and pigtail connectors, and if ill be able to use toyota looms cut and modified, or If Ill be making the looms myself.

When I have time ill take out my whole setup and show everyone how it looks and how it installs with some good photos, keep in mind that mine is the first one and I rushed so final products would be neater and a bit nicer to look at, and I wont use ignitors with a big hole in them like I did for mine (essentially a track pig so I dont care; see filthy engine bay).

But anyways, if your interested send me a PM with you ecu setup, current ignition setup, and of course model so I have an idea what ill need and can work out prices.

Dann

Postby **NitroDann** » Tue Jul 05, 2011 6:04 pm

Also, if your local and want to guinea pig some 1.8 or 99+ stuff give me a shout.

Dann

Postby **NitroDann** » Wed Jul 06, 2011 6:08 pm

Theres now been enough interest to ask for a proper discount on coils in the number ill need for everyone.

Is everyone who pmd me okay with using low km second hand genuine coils (good for the life of the car usually)?

OR would people prefer I made the looms only and included fitting hardware and you can all find your own coils (800 for a set of new ones...).

I reckon buying a heap of low km warrantied second hand ones will come out super cheap (far cheaper than you all will be able to, ill get a bulk discount AND at trade cost).

Opinions wanted. Obviously If you arent interested in them, and your not an electrical engineer specialising in toyota coils, dont worry.

Dann

gslender · Postby **gslender** » Wed Jul 06, 2011 7:19 pm

I'm happy with 2nd hand assuming it is checked as working first.

G

Postby **NitroDann** » Thu Jul 07, 2011 12:23 pm

So heres the low down on the coils, I cannot include prices yet as Ive pmd to everyone I just wont know for a week or 2.

So you start with getting the coils and complete loom from one of these...

This is the remaining third of the loom that didnt get touched when modifying it and stealing its bits, for whoever didnt know what a loom looks like out of a car..

This is the toyota loom after your done with tracing and cutting wires and staring at a wiring diagram for AGES..

Obviously here comes soldering, heat shrinking and covering it in its protective (and factory looking) black convolute cover.

The following photos show the main engine earth which isnt for the ecu but to make sure all those sparky volty things have somewhere to go after they shoot through your intake charge (a poor or ecu only earth wouldnt allow big power through the coils).

They also show how the loom plugs straight into a factory connector and bolts down straight where the stock ignitor goes and so look stock.

Good strong earth in factory looking location

The plug on the chassis end of the loom, the orange plug is where it goes. When installed the loom runs under the brake booster, under the relay box and under the lip of the guard so its almost totally hidden between the stock ignitor location and the head, see my 1st page photos.

Another one for those who really still dont get it hahaha, sorry It was here so I uploaded it..

And of course another obligatory 'look at my engine' bay shot.

All comments and suggestions are welcome.

Dann

bootz · Postby **bootz** » Thu Jul 07, 2011 9:43 pm

NitroDann wrote:Serious Headwork....

Wow! I have never read a post so true. :lol:

WTF is so bad about Pulsar.org?
Is it something about the drivers, I looked and it seemed harmless enough.

PS I rather liked the Pulsar SSS.

Postby **NitroDann** » Thu Jul 07, 2011 10:36 pm

Its so.... Polite?.. That no info seems to go around often, its packed full of noobs talking sh*t and its 100% accepted. I built a stroked n13 rally car as you can see and got very little info there. Lots of 'sick bro looks great..' and 'just sr it bruuuuuuuuzzzzz'...

But now answer my question, critique my loom.

Dann

RedMX · Postby **RedMX** » Fri Jul 08, 2011 2:24 am

NitroDann wrote: Critique my loom.

Dann

Not bad, looks a very simple & clean setup. well done Dann. just one lil thing (i know that your setup) is a all go & no show loom. but in the future around the coils I'm sure you could make it neater. :wink:

Cheers Gareth.
Ex harness maker of Kenworth trucks

Old Dude · Postby **Old Dude** » Fri Jul 08, 2011 9:05 am

Looks almost factory Dann :lol:

.....now a few questions, I have an NB8B and have never had any issues, what are the benefits of these units over the standard set up.

cheers
Dale

Postby **NitroDann** » Fri Jul 08, 2011 9:56 am

First things first, the loom around the plugs... Do you mean a shorter section between the coils and the main loom or did you mean tighter heatshrink around that section?

Dale...
Big coils are all about efficiency of combustion..
In essense, the harder your mixture is to burn, the more efficiency of combustion improvement youll get doing the swap. In this instance, efficiency is the measurement between fuel injected and joules of energy produced.

Because the injected fuel wont be changed, all we will see change is the power, as all of that fuel will burn better. This helps with fuel efficiency (the reason these are found on corollas) and of course power (the reason these coils are found on lexus 2JZ engines). And dont forget factory mx is 2 weak coils with inefficient leads that break down over time, this is 4 coils attached directly to the plug.

Of course, the amount of improvement relies on how hard the mixture is to burn.
The higher your octane is the harder it is to ignite and get a good strong clean burn, im on e85 and at 110 octane this is a no brainer, just for example, it used to take 30 seconds to get it started on a cold morning but now its instant, straight off the key.
More compression makes the mixture harder to burn. I have that too.
Also boost makes it very hard on the ignition, every 14psi doubles the density of the air the spark has to push through, and we all know air is a great insulator.

On my car, the butt dyno says the improvement is at least 10%. The mrs thinks 15%.
Its better than going from rooted 100k old leads to brand new 8mm splitfires in terms of power and response improvement. But youll get it going from the good leads to this setup, and you eliminate leads, so no more new leads every 30k.
In short, a big turbo setup will be so hard on ignition it might get complete rev limiter like misses so onviously they might gain 50hp doing this swap, on a stock car it may only improve by a couple hp but it definately makes the engine more responsive and eliminates leads and should give a nice fuel economy improvement.

On top of that if the coils ever die (on a corolla they last a lifetime, my mother replaced one at 320k) they are available very easily and so common they are cheap from any wrecker.

Im not going to act like a chinese ebay shop and say guaranteed +15bhp, so if your not sure grab a set off someone local who buys some and do the 5 minute swap and see if its for you.

Dann

jerrah · Postby **jerrah** » Fri Jul 08, 2011 1:46 pm

The coilpacks are available from the US/ebay. I picked up a complete set of NEW COP with connectors to suit for around $120 shipped.

Lots of guys on miataturbo are running the Toyota COP's and they have information here: http://miataturbo.wikidot.com/cop

Also there is a thread on mx5cartalk by Tbro http://mx5cartalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=44754 which includes links and part numbers to buy all the connectors. The website also lists new coils for about $45ea